new gt40s on but wont start now : ( - Page 3 - MustangForums.com


5.0L (1979-1995) Mustang Technical discussions on 5.0 Liter Mustangs within. This does not include the 5.0 from the 2011 Mustang GT. That information is in the 2005-1011 section.

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Old 06-28-2012, 12:16 AM   #21  
marlyman
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first of all, when you delete the EGR crossover pipe from the back of the heads, you absolutely must plug the EGR rails in the heads, otherwise you've basically just got a giant exhaust leak.

second, any time you have vacuum lines hanging off the manifold, you have to plug them!

any time you mess with the idle set screw, you need to do a base idle reset - the procedure is available in these forums, look for it.

your fpr should be set for 39psi. if it is, that's not your problem, barring any strange fuel flow problems (doubtful).

still running the speed density setup? your computer is making assumptions about the volumetric efficiency of your engine based on the stock cam, heads, and intake. it's only going to inject as much fuel as it computes is needed for those VE numbers. since it's a narrowband EGO correction system, it's going to have some trouble adjusting the fuel up to compensate for a radical change in the H/C/I setup. it's definitely going to need to run for a while before it hones in on reasonable settings. i don't know a whole lot about the algorithm used by the stock computers for "learning" the engine parameters, but given the narrowband EGO system and the speed density setup, i don't see the SD computer doing that well... then again, i don't know how much better the gt40's actually are than the e7's... if anyone here *knows* that the sd computer can do a good job with them, feel free to correct me...
So unfortunetly the heads i got (posted link to them in previous post same thread) didnt come machined with "egr rails" thats probably why they were like half the price as other gt40s... an ur second comment about the vac lines hangin well, i have none just hangin off the manifold but i got a couple that have nowhere to plug into now that i took the smog pump/egr pipe (from back of heads) off so i was wondering if i should plug them, and unplug the power to them? and does my egr valve even need to be pluged in? i mean i know the vacuum ports should be plugd if not used so am i still using them? i dont think so.. : ) Uhm yeah definetly gunna do the base idle reset just havent had time i work nights an i gotta sleep an my girlfriend's been so bitchy cuz i spend more time workin on the car then on her lol uhg i just got a fuel pressure gauge gunna put that on asap make sure its at 39psi cool, And uhm lastly about the Speed density, I actually have mass air i guess california edition 88's are mass air...i mean i got the mass air flow sensor, an my map sensor is acting as a barometric sensor or whatever might have that backwards dont remember ...
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Old 06-28-2012, 08:19 AM   #22  
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Port the TB? Wow. Yeah sure, as long as you have access to a wind tunnel so you can make sure the airflow swirls, like it surely WON'T do after grinding away on it. TB's aren't expensive because of the metal in them, they're expensive because of the thousands of man hours that go into the engineering and testing for optimal air flow. Also, if you were to port the TB, you'd have to find a way to port the IAC hole as well, to compensate. Good luck with that.

Removing the sway bar for weight distro? 7lb's surely isn't enough of a difference to justify removing the only thing keeping the car level through turns. Want good weight distro? Put a set of 4cyl springs in front, watch the watch distro happen before your very eyes.

Want traction? Scrap your stock rear control arms and dampening shock, get a good set of arms, weld up the torque boxes. Hey presto, traction.
I so happen to have a few friends that own mustangs and they've ported, polished and port matched the intake to the tb and its done wonders for their car. It is possible you just have to be patient so that you dont over do it.
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Old 06-28-2012, 08:34 AM   #23  
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Port the TB? Wow. Yeah sure, as long as you have access to a wind tunnel so you can make sure the airflow swirls, like it surely WON'T do after grinding away on it. TB's aren't expensive because of the metal in them, they're expensive because of the thousands of man hours that go into the engineering and testing for optimal air flow. Also, if you were to port the TB, you'd have to find a way to port the IAC hole as well, to compensate. Good luck with that.

Removing the sway bar for weight distro? 7lb's surely isn't enough of a difference to justify removing the only thing keeping the car level through turns. Want good weight distro? Put a set of 4cyl springs in front, watch the watch distro happen before your very eyes.

Want traction? Scrap your stock rear control arms and dampening shock, get a good set of arms, weld up the torque boxes. Hey presto, traction.
About the sway/stability bar removal. yes, it is obvious you will loose some stability while going thru a turn. I removed it on mine and i felt a difference in traction but not in stability because i have Steeda Drag Race front and rear springs so that helps keep some stability in the frontend. any weight off the frontend will help with weight distribution. you won't feel much difference but the car sure will.
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Old 06-28-2012, 07:43 PM   #24  
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So i think i've asked this before but should i be unpluging my egr an most of the vacuum lines? (since i dont have the egr rails that bolt to back of heads) im meaning most of the vacuum lines that plug into sensors on the passenger side of engine bay...

And another question i just put a fuel pressure gauge onto my bbk adj fpr an i was told to put at 39 psi which i just happened to set it to without the gauge but when i give some throttle the psi goes down a bit, at idle it stays at 39..is that normal or does it need adjustment?
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Old 06-28-2012, 08:10 PM   #25  
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@Idle pressure should be 32-33 with vacuum line on. 39 without vacuum(simulating WOT).
Pressure should rise with throttle, not decrease.
AS for the lines, remove/plug any line that is not in use. All of them. Even the ones on the evap solenoids. Those solenoids are triggering a vacuum leak if the lines are still on.
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Old 06-28-2012, 10:16 PM   #26  
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@Idle pressure should be 32-33 with vacuum line on. 39 without vacuum(simulating WOT).
Pressure should rise with throttle, not decrease.
AS for the lines, remove/plug any line that is not in use. All of them. Even the ones on the evap solenoids. Those solenoids are triggering a vacuum leak if the lines are still on.
hell yeah right on man, So there are a couple vac lines that go from the upper intake to the evap sensors shuold i remove an plug those aswell? i would basically if i can remember correctly have vac line from upper intake to fpr, big vac line to brake booster thing, an then the vac line that goes to lower intake an thats bout it..oh also the charcoal filter but besides those really shuold just plug the rest...? an what bout the egr valve do i need that plugd in an have power to it? or no im guess in no but?
An when i set psi on bbk adj fpr i do it with the vac line coming from upper intake ON correct?, an set it to 32-33? or do i set it with vac line OFF an set to 39?
hella appreciate the help man like no other
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Old 06-29-2012, 07:18 PM   #27  
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...hmph for some reason im having trouble setting this damn bbk adj fpr, no matter how far i screw up or down my gauge reads the same ammount...i tried pullin vac line off an pluging both vac line an nipple of fpr i adjust set screw then tighten nut but still no change : ( any ideas? the fpr is brand new...do i adjust while running or with fuel primed or? uhg
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Old 06-29-2012, 10:10 PM   #28  
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sounds like a faulty fpr
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Old 06-29-2012, 11:49 PM   #29  
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Uhg That'd be just my luck too...is there anyway to test it to see if it works? lol besides adjusting it lol sh00t man maybe the gauge is off uhg o well i'll figure it out..guess my next step is to get this damn adj fpr to work then ima upgrade injectors an maf...o right well, right the F on for all the input / help u guys r the sheeeit!! : )
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