Bubba 95SN

No heat, replace flywheel bolts. +1 flywheel tool. Holes in crank go straight through crank. Look with flashlight..it is so.Therefor sealant must go on flywheel bolts or there is a oil leak. Replace rear main seal while there.

AAX86

Luckily i haven't taken a torch to it yet. It seemed kinda sketch. So i won't be doing that.

I'll try to jam the flywheel teeth with something like suggested. If that doesn't work i think i'm gonna try to slip a second breaker bar on the crank bolt wrench and wedge it against the floor so it absolutely can't move and then try to loosen the flywheel.

I really wish i had an impact wrench. That's the next tool i'm getting for sure. It would have come in handy so many times.

Will report back shortly. Thanks

AAX86

Couldn't figure out where or how to jam the teeth with a screwdriver and my double bar idea didn't work. Fuuuuuuuuu-

mattdel

Put a bellhousing bolt back into the engine block and use that as a fulcrum for the bar.

Dj_Seph

You've got a 'stang now. Time to invest in either air tools or electric impact tools. You'll thank me later.

c3dsutton

good to know about the tool at HF. Thanks

AAX86

Not sure if this is what you meant but i ended up putting one of the bolts back into the block and then i put one end of a wrench on that and the other end on one of the pins on the flywheel and that kept it from rotating. Then i just pushed on the breaker bar (with practically all my weight) from outside the car. They were on there ridiculously tight. I think i saw a picture of someone who did it but i forget where.

Thanks peeps

enfausn

I gotta apoligize for mis-information yall. Was down working in the garage and realized my flywheel tool is a craftsman, not harbor frieght. My bad.

c3dsutton

When you say they WERE on there does that mean problem solved?

AAX86

Yes problem solved. There was no loctite on any of the bolts. Just really really tight.