promustanperformance

I have a pinging/clicking noice in my car sometimes under full throttle. I does not happen every time. I have a 94 GT with minor mods. The clicking sounds like either the lifters, or pinging from the timing being too far advanced. I have been told by speed shop in the area that has 20 years experience that the 94-95 mustangs should not be advanced like their 87-93 brothers who can handle more timing, so they set the timing to 8 degrees. Could it be that that is still too much? Also, has anyone used header wraps on their car? The SN95's run real hot and I'm looking to cool it down, in addition to a 180 thermo. Thank you

vfast

putting the MR gasket 180 stat will help with the pinging.....if it's pinging with just 8 degrees timing there is another issue...you didn't say what grade gas you are using..a new tune up and better grade of gas maybe from another station will help, go to auto zone and have them scan for codes, also clean you maf,worse case is you might have a stretched timing chain

promustanperformance

yea i like the 180 gasket. do you only recommend mr. gasket? i was thinking and it may actually have 10 degrees. i've only used 93 gas since the day i bought the car, and only from big gas stations and I've never noticed it being particular to the gas. i scanned for codes a few months ago but I fixed the problem and they're haven't been any since. as far as the maf goes, i installed a 76mm C&L a few months ago also, and I cleaned the sensor with carburetor cleaner at the same time. I just recharged the K&N filter a few weeks ago. I'm going to try the timing and the thermostat. I should get both done today, I'll let you know what happens. Thanks for the help

95whitecobra

Have the balancer checked for wear. Our cars are notorious for have the rubber on the balancer wear which cause misread timing. The factory sets the timing at 10* new with 87 octane, so pinging at 8* is a problem with 93.

On The Hunt

I have a 95 gts that had the same problem from the day I bought it with 68,000 miles on the OD and a virgin under the hood. I found a combonation of things that caused this. Fuel psi regulator was 9psi low vaccum hose on or off. Tstat was slow to respond. Injectors were clogged/dirty along with plenty of Floridas super fine black road dust that was found in the tank and supply and return lines. Ignition timing was off dispite the fact that the collar on the distributor had no additional markings from someone moving it around. Mechanical wear. Pulled the front cover last week to take care of a small coolant leak and to my amusement I also found a BADDLEY streched timing chain. No more clankin and rattlin and the gain from correcting the fuel psi was a ten on the seat of the pants meter.

promustanperformance

I changed the thermostat today. The shop I deal with convinced me to hold off on retarding the timing, and concentrating on cooling down the motor. The thermostat cooled things down about 10-15 degrees on the highway, but around town nothing is different. He told me, and I read in the Hayne's manual, that the electric fan doesn't come on until 221 degrees, and that it stays on until it goes back down below 200. The manual also says that the fan only comes on at low speed, unless the air conditioner is turned on, then it goes on high. I'm considering wiring a tockle switch into the fan. It's either that, or a flex-a-lite fan, or a bigger radiator. The stock one is rather small, although you'd think that it would keep the stock temperature below 210 degrees, where my car rests. I'm also considering replaces the billet type grille i have right now, with a simpler pony or cobra with nothing around it, to allow the air through. The speed shop says I can probably keep the car down around 180 if I can get the fan to come on at 180. We'll see what happens. If anyone has ever wired a toggle switch to their fan, please feel free to include step-by-step instructions. Thanks