1995 Mustang GT dies when hot!!
#1
1995 Mustang GT dies when hot!!
Hello, I purchased a 95 Mustang GT Convertible about a month ago. Drove it home from Ft. Lauderdale (6 hours) and had no issues. Drove it off and on for first week, no issues. Then, due to static in the radio (only when engine running), I started troubleshooting the stereo ground connections. While doing that, I disconnected the negative battery cable. Did not see any issues, reconnected battery. About 2 days later, I am driving home from work (had been driving about 10 minutes) and the car just instantly died while driving. It would still crank, but not turn over. About 40 minutes later, it started back up, and I barely made it to my driveway (1 mile away) and it died again. Did not feel like a fuel issue, but had it tested anyways and pressure was low. Replaced the fuel filter, fuel pump, and had a full fuel injector cleaning performed. Still was having the issue with it just dying on me. Realized that the negative battery teminal was slightly loose, but would not tighten anymore. So, I bought one of those lead shims that go over the battery post, and it tightened down super tight. No issues at all for about a week, so I thought it was fixed. During that time, I also replaced the plugs, wires, and the entire rack and pinion and tie rods (inner and outer). Took it to get an allignment after doing the steering work, and when I picked it up, stopped to get gas, and you guessed it, dead again. Crank but no start. After an hour and a half, it cranked up, went one mile down the road, and died again. Just towed it home. So, then yesterday, I swapped out the coil, and the TFI module. Oh, I also put in a brand new battery. Drove it to the auto parts store to test the battery and then went to leave and it would not start again. Actually seems to be worse now then it was in that it takes longer for it to start up. Just had my wife pick me up, went back 4 hours later and drove it home. Next on my list is to just replace the whole distribtor (I know it could just be the PIP, but just gonna do whole thing). IF I swap the dizzy and it's STILL not working, I will not know for sure what to do next. I've read some things about "relays" heating up and not working correctly??? Not really sure what thats talking about. I am requesting ANY input as what I should do next. Thanks in advance, David
#2
Shoulda come here first. I woulda said PIP from the get-go. It's really the only heat related failure that SN95's have.
Radio static can be a couple things. First off, the PIP wiring and the TFI wiring both SHOULD have radio suppression wiring looms. Basically some tin foil wrapped around the wires, inside the looming.
Second, you can add a radio suppression condenser to the ignition system.
Radio static can be a couple things. First off, the PIP wiring and the TFI wiring both SHOULD have radio suppression wiring looms. Basically some tin foil wrapped around the wires, inside the looming.
Second, you can add a radio suppression condenser to the ignition system.
#3
My 94 will sometimes have a similar issue where if I drive it for long periods it will die and I will have to wait about 5 -10 minutes before it starts up again, then it tries to die if I don't stay in the gas. My friends 95 did the same thing, he said its something inside the stock distributor, said he put in a performance one and hasn't had a problem since. Me, I just don't drive mine for more than 30 minutes at a time anymore and thankfully I don't have any issues with that short time.
#4
My 94 will sometimes have a similar issue where if I drive it for long periods it will die and I will have to wait about 5 -10 minutes before it starts up again, then it tries to die if I don't stay in the gas. My friends 95 did the same thing, he said its something inside the stock distributor, said he put in a performance one and hasn't had a problem since. Me, I just don't drive mine for more than 30 minutes at a time anymore and thankfully I don't have any issues with that short time.
#5
Thanks for the replies. I will swap the distributor and post back with the outcome. My gut was the distibutor from the beginning, but I was trying to go the cheaper route. On a positive note, after each item I have replaced, I can tell a difference in the cars performance. Basically every item in the car was stock and original, to include the plugs and wires at almost 18 years old.
#6
So, I had a local mechanic swap the distributor for me. Swapped the stock one for a MSD Pro Billet. The car does not die anymore once it gets hot, but now it "jerks" when giving a small amount of gas. You don't really notice it until your cruising about 45 MPH. It "jerks" and the RPM's jump around all over the place. I can only assume that the dizzy was not installed correctly since that was the last thing done. Thoughts on what was probably done wrong?? Thanks
#7
Hard to believe MSD's ignition department is still in business.
Your new problem is most likely the MSD stuff. It's garbage, for some reason. If you browse through most ignition related threads here, you'll find more often than not, MSD ignition components are the cause of the problems.
Your new problem is most likely the MSD stuff. It's garbage, for some reason. If you browse through most ignition related threads here, you'll find more often than not, MSD ignition components are the cause of the problems.
#9
I stand by Crane's ignition components wholeheartedly, but really, an aftermarket distributor is a waste for a car that isn't racing for money.
A good 'ol stock replacement should be perfect. RockAuto.com has extremely fair pricing for OE parts.
A good 'ol stock replacement should be perfect. RockAuto.com has extremely fair pricing for OE parts.
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