blackbeard

Hey guys kinda new, been a member for a while when i had an 89 but sold that and went bike for a while, BUT i have a new 88 GT and im having problems already. I bought this car the way it is so there are something i am unfamiliar with. I'll try to be simple and run through everything that has happened to better diagnose this strange problem.

I turn my headlight son via twitch on dash (left) and nothing turns on, i pull the lever and high beams turn on. so i figured i would run with the highs and rix it in the morning, until i couldn't turn the high beams off. I ended up having to disconnect the battery.

After taking out the multi-function switch i found the connector to the headlights was melted. i fix this with some simple wiring so my low worked and i had no high beams.

Here is where it gets good. After driving around a bit my car died! It acted like the battery was dead, got a jump but couldn't make it down the street without it dying. I'm assuming alternator is bad and car is running off the battery. SO i start to look at the Alternator it has something my 89 didn't have. It looks like it has 2 sets of wire coming from the alternator and wiring straight to the headlights?? like they are the only thing that is powered by the alternator??? could i be wrong about this? been driving for 3 weeks now with not problems them this out of no where.

For further help here is a list of things done to the car.


gt40 heads, under drive pulleys, no A/c (removed), cold air intake, Line Lock, It is hooked for spray but no bottle, bbk headers, flow master exhaust, 3 core radiator and after market radiator fan.

If any of this helps good if not, feel free to ask for more info, thanks in advance for any help you guys can provide me with because im stumped.

mattdel

First things first, fix the headlight wiring at the switch. You can purchase pigtails @ www.rockauto.com, Ford/1988/Mustang/Electrical Connector/Headlamp switch Connector

Then, do this: http://www.corral.net/tech/maintenance/foglights.html

Then, take some pictures of this wiring issue, and trace/describe what colors are spliced into, etc etc. The standard wiring has 2 thick Black/orange wires coming out the back that lead to the starter solenoid.

blackbeard

Ok I went back and followed the wired it is hooked up normally, it's just bundled in the same harness as the lights.

A friend has a pretty good deal on a powermaster 140amp alternator I'm gonna put in. Read a little about it but any tips for the upgrade?

Mattdel, I check rockauto.com but they didn't have the connector I need. This connector is from the mutual function switch (turn signal/ hi low lever) from inside the column. What are the odds that the lift issue and alternator going bad are connected or just by chance?

Ill get some pics up during lunch. Also someone mentioned the hei unit that's mounted on the fender??

blackbeard

blackbeard

I guess if you can just got here to see the pics, ive tried everything for posting pics and they wont show up, and of course I can't edit the post so.

http://www.facebook.com/anthony.barrick.5/photos_stream

mattdel

Yeah I'd say you need a new alternator. If you upgrade to something as large as you're thinking, you're gonna wanna run a new wire to the starter solenoid as your charge wire. The stock 2 black wires won't handle the load if it's ever demanded. Zero gauge speaker wire is my choice.

Here's the harness you need: http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/...Repair-Harness

And after repairing this, do the fog light fix I linked. It's necessary if you run fog lights, at all.

blackbeard

ok so here is an update of where i am at the moment. I replaced the alternator and the serpentine belt battery is not dying anymore but i still have lover amps on the gauge.

I believe my multi-function switch may be the problem, so where can i get one without spend $299.00!

Will this work?

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/more...842&cc=1133929

Or are there any other alternative? used maybe?

Thanks guys, at least i can drive during the day now.

mattdel

Yeah thats the right one, the question is whether or not the alternator is outputting as it should. Which alt did you install? Stocks are 65amp I believe, not much at all.

blackbeard

I did purchase an OEM alternator (75 amps) because i couldn't wait to get the aftermarket one. even if it was putting out less than needed it drained a new battery in about 40 min. So far this is what i have done.

New alternator, Surp belt, new battery. removed the multi-function switch (in case it was draining power). I also changed the plugs that go into the alternator. The only thing i haven't done is put the old gauges back in. When i bought the car the guy had the 85 mph gauges in the car. I put the 140 back in and they for sure don't function right.

I had low power prior to changing the gauges so i doubt this will help.

Today i put the new plugs on the alternator with a new battery (not used yet) went for a drive for about an hour, let the car idle for 25 min. Seemed ok other than some weird idling at times. kept turning the car off waiting and starting it again to see if the battery was going to die. hasn't yet but when i stopped it was starting to struggle to start.

I am seriously out of options here, i cant just keep going until i replace the whole car piece by piece. I drove this car for 3 week after buying it, it ran great and now no headlights, and battery keeps dying. I don't want to sell this car but i may have to if i can't solve this soon.

ANY HELP PLEASE! TAKE YOUR BEST (AND I MEAN BEST) GUESS.

Thanks!

blackbeard

Wow, put the old 85mph guages back in and instant problem solved! but why??