5.0L (1979-1995) Mustang Technical discussions on 5.0 Liter Mustangs within. This does not include the 5.0 from the 2011 Mustang GT. That information is in the 2005-1011 section.

hesitation/bucking

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Old 06-09-2013, 08:43 PM
  #21  
Lee Kelsoe
 
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so I finally got the car to do a cylinder balance test...couldn't get it to do it for about the last 10 times...lol... it gave me a 5 and an 8... so while it was running I could get to the #5 cylinder injector plug and unplugged it and nothing happened.. didn't even miss a beat.. still revved as it was before I unplugged it....does that mean the injector is dead or could it still be compression or spark?
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Old 06-09-2013, 09:55 PM
  #22  
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See if it is pulsing Or take something and listen to it. And no, it means you have a dead miss for whatever reason.

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Old 06-09-2013, 10:07 PM
  #23  
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is there a specific ohm reading I should get out of a good injector? I don't have a motor stethoscope...
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Old 06-09-2013, 10:13 PM
  #24  
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You can just take something long like a ratchet and listen to it. Being number 5, you may be able to get your hand on it. If it isn't clicking, u can check the plug with a test light
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Old 06-12-2013, 09:20 PM
  #25  
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Unhappy new problem, or solution?

ok, so i tore it all down and got to the injectors...pulled them, tested them...all around 17-19 ohms... did the DIY cleaning with syringe, carb cleaner, and battery... they all worked perfect... talked to a "mustang shop" guy and he said either EGR or "bad" "new from Advance Auto" O2 sensors... then he mentioned a problem he has seen many times...told me to pull my PCM and check the 2 capacitors for them to be "crapped out" Low and behold, the 47microfarad one was shot...it's like $1.01 at Radio Shack... way east to replace... he said they will get that way and as they charge they heat up and then cause false problems that eventually puts itself into limp mode...which is exactly what it feels like when it starts its problems... gonna button it back up with all new seals, O rings, and vac lines..replace the capacitor and see what happens...
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Old 06-19-2013, 12:06 AM
  #26  
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does anybody have any thoughts on my new findings?
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Old 06-27-2013, 09:46 PM
  #27  
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hijacking back. So finally I decided to drop the tank and see what the pump and so on looked like. 2 issues were found. on the fuel pump hanger there is a small rubber tip with a slit that keeps pressure from draining back to the tank, mine was torn up the side...this as the cause of fuel pressure loss after turning off the car. the second and probably larger issue was in the fuel sending line. the line had been modified and had two lines spliced together with a cylinder threaded on the inside with ****** fittings going either way, I believe this extra space and edges that this created were messing with the fuel flow. In my opinion it may have caused a bubble or something....maybe that's not possible I don't really know. anyway I have now put three tanks or gas through the car with no issues....I hope and think it has been fixed.
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Old 07-02-2013, 07:35 AM
  #28  
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not re-highjacking...just closing statements...lol... my problem ended up being one of the capacitors on the PCM was blown out... Cost $.94 at Radio Shack, took 5 days to ship for $7...lol... ran like brand new for 2 weeks, but now, after installing a CAI,I'm dealing with a CEL that comes on and goes off constantly while I'm driving... getting 157,157 codes...I know that is MAF, but too high and too low voltage sounds like PCM related electrical issues again... might end up replacing PCM completely...

glad you figured your problem out....knock on wood...
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Old 08-01-2013, 10:34 PM
  #29  
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well, sorry it's been so long.... the $.94 capacitor fixed all the previous issues... then the new problems described in the previous post started... replaced the MAF and she has been trouble free for almost 2 months now...still knocking on wood... lol..
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