1990 Mustang 5.0 Fox (HELP HELP HELP)
#41
get a digital volt meter and back probe the black (neg) wire and green wires. Key on engine off you should be reading as close as you can to .98 volts. If not loosen it and adjust till your close. I believe the range your looking for is .88 -.98 but ideal is close to .98. If this is out of wack it can really mess with the way the car starts, and runs. Very easy to check and set. If this is at all confusing to you as my thoughts don't always come out right you can search the forums for tps adjustment and some rather extensive write ups have been done.
#45
Guys..I am back with new issues. Going to work this morning, running about 70 on the freeway and the car lost power. I mean rpm hand was on zero. After coasting about 15 seconds, it re engaged and ran fine. It did it a second time maybe 2 minutes later...and then car ran better than it has since replacing the engine. Got to work, went out for lunch, crank the car up in the parking lot, as soon as I pulled off, I turned the A/C on and the car died. Car would not crank up again, just turning over. Let it sit for about 15 minutes, attempted to crank it, crank right up, turn on A/C, ran good. turned it back off. Cranked again, turn a/c on/off everything fine. What could be causing this??? Scared to attempt to drive it home after work today. What ever this is, it's electrical I would imagine because when the car died, I had no power in the car as far as I could tell.
#46
That last problem sounds like the alternator, about a month ago mine went on the highway, engine started cutting in and out, lost all electronics in the car one by one, just started shutting down, gauges included went to zero. I replaced it and it solved the problem. As for the other problems, the white smoke that smells like gas, not a clue.
#47
Guys..I am back with new issues. Going to work this morning, running about 70 on the freeway and the car lost power. I mean rpm hand was on zero. After coasting about 15 seconds, it re engaged and ran fine. It did it a second time maybe 2 minutes later...and then car ran better than it has since replacing the engine. Got to work, went out for lunch, crank the car up in the parking lot, as soon as I pulled off, I turned the A/C on and the car died. Car would not crank up again, just turning over. Let it sit for about 15 minutes, attempted to crank it, crank right up, turn on A/C, ran good. turned it back off. Cranked again, turn a/c on/off everything fine. What could be causing this??? Scared to attempt to drive it home after work today. What ever this is, it's electrical I would imagine because when the car died, I had no power in the car as far as I could tell.
Turned out to be the contacts in the ignition switch were not making very good contact in the run position the plastic case was very brittle and part of it that held the contacts in place were broken , a slight bump or small vibration was enough for it to loose contact and cut off .
Tfi modules are known to cause the engine to just shut off randomly also, as well as a bad coil. Intermittent fuel pump failure or loose ground to the fuel pump loosing ground with the vibrations of the road.
Just some things to look into.
#48
Thanks guys for the suggestion. I had the switch module changed already, plus I've replaced the coil with a new MSD coil recently. The alternator suggestion is interesting because my voltage/battery meter is below half and if I can remember, it used to be at half or better. Ironically, the car starts fine. I noticed that on the way home. Car made it to the house about 30 miles away and did not shut off once..but I can feel a little sputter from time to time. I've replaced the ECM and the distributor unit but I read some comments today that the ECM or distributor can cause this. One guy advised me to go back with the old ones as the car didn't do it before the new engine so they wasn't bad. One note, I added 2 electric fans to keep the car cool in this tx heat...could this be the reason why the battery meter is reading what it is? What you guys think?. Oh and the white smoke turned out to be the front bolt on the upper intake wasn't torqueing down like it should. Was getting some mixture there. That problem has been solved.
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