Started bucking.. died
My '94 has now been in the shop since Thursday after I had to get it towed.. and the guy still doesn't even know whats wrong with it. So I'm hoping for some advice here.
The past few days before it crapped out I noticed idle was dropping a bit low and actually stalled once or twice due to dropping a bit low. Otherwise ran fine. Then one Thursday as I was getting into I think 2nd gear it kinda started bucking on me as the rpms would dip and then shoot back up.. it only did this for a couple seconds then jumped right back to normal and I continued to drive home. A few miles later coming out of a stop light this happened again, except this time it wouldn't quit, I couldn't accelerate, and I just pulled to the side and killed it. After waiting a few minutes I tried starting it and after cranking it a few seconds it just barely decided to start and it would rev between maybe 150-300rpm.. throttle was useless. After letting it sit another maybe 15 minutes same thing except rpms came up higher and I could somewhat get it to rev. At that point I took advantage of AAA and got it towed. Last I talked to the guy in the shop, it seemed all he knew was that I had a cam in the engine. :icon_shrug: |
sounds like your fuel pump took a dump, Or possibly even broke the catalyst apart inside the converters and they plugged up...
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I second the fuel pump idea. Easy place to start. Usually if cats plug up it will idle fine but die or really bog under load.
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Originally Posted by mongolchuck
(Post 8229837)
I second the fuel pump idea. Easy place to start. Usually if cats plug up it will idle fine but die or really bog under load.
as for cats there are none. it was also reverse.. idle was off but no noticeable issue under load |
If its not fuel related, its ignition related. TFI/PIP/Coil/Ecm, in order of failure rate.
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Originally Posted by mattdel
(Post 8229907)
If its not fuel related, its ignition related. TFI/PIP/Coil/Ecm, in order of failure rate.
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Yes, you have to take out/apart the distributor, but its rather easy. All you need is a roll-pin punch and a hammer to take the gear off the bottom. Then the shaft comes out and you disassemble the PIP area under where the rotor would sit. Would take me 10 minutes. Someone who's winging it, maybe an hour. Do not pay 500.
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To replace the pip you need to remove the dizzy and disassemble it by taking the roll pins out of the shaft.
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Originally Posted by mattdel
(Post 8230136)
Yes, you have to take out/apart the distributor, but its rather easy. All you need is a roll-pin punch and a hammer to take the gear off the bottom. Then the shaft comes out and you disassemble the PIP area under where the rotor would sit. Would take me 10 minutes. Someone who's winging it, maybe an hour. Do not pay 500.
so first off i dunno where he's getting 250 for the distrib.. i should be able to get one for around $100 it looks like. and then it should be very straight forward to just pull the one one and drop in the new one right? |
Yeah pretty simple. No need to have them do it if you're confident.
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