yurizx6r

Hey guys I have sort of a 2 part question.

1. Can you only upgrade your lower control arms and leave the stock uppers?
2. What control arms do you guys recommend? At first I was thinking just some plane SR performance ones, but then I read "Kyles (kinda long)" review on american muscle. Now I'm thinking the BBK's, but do you guys have any recommendations? Heres the link to the review I read.... http://www.americanmuscle.com/rear-c...kit-7998.html3

Thanks for any help in advance!

dawson1112

answer to your 1st question is yes you can change only the lower. This will put more available torque to the road as apposed to the stock arms flexing and absorbing some of it and will also almost eliminate the wheel hop you get from that flex .
The answer to question 2 is I don't have an answer for you lol sorry.
bbk, Maximum Motersports, Granatelli, Steeda There are going to be as many answers to this as there are producers of the product. Each has a following and each has critics. I use the stock arms with out any troubles but Im not racing and Im not making near the power that a lot of these guys on here are. Those 4 seem to be the popular choices , Its likely that a lot of guys on here will suggest Steeda , and if im incorrect I will quickly be informed of it . lol

yurizx6r

I know what you mean. Lot's of products, does not mean they are all bad, but you know which ones has the best reputation. Somebody who seems to know foxbodies better than I do, told me that it would be a bad idea to upgrade the upper and lowers if it's not strictly a drag car because it would make it too stiff for taking corners. He also said just upgrade the lowers and be done with it. What I was thinking is taking off the quad shocks, and putting on some 275's on; however, I do not want wheel hop. Hence this thread.

reldla1996

I largely agree with Dawson. If you're replacing the lowers because their worn out, good chance the uppers need replaced as well. If you're replacing to gain performance, I'd also do the lowers first. I personally like Steeda about the best (I like their hard inner and softer outer bushings that help reduce bind), but MM is also an excellent brand. Any of the aftermarket brands are a big improvement over factory, and reduce the probability of the sudden snap 360 maneuver the factory suspension is known for. Lowers that lower the mounting point on the axle also improve traction, which is a plus for me, though I accomplished that by welding on brackets to the axle housing to lower that mounting point (I also moved it rearward an inch and a half to move the axle forward, which puts more weight on the rear tires.).

yurizx6r

Hey also, what about these? http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/...ontrol-Arm-Kit Some guy on craigslist is selling these for 150........ worth it?

dawson1112

Ordinarilly a set of lca's will get rid of the wheel hop problem but not always. In this case a set of stiffer shock the mounting relocation kit like mentioned above and lowering the car can help get rid of the rest.

There is absolutely no reason not to replace the upr's , yes they can cause a bit of binding in the corners if you go to a polly bushing , if this is a concern then you can find a set of upr's that use the stock rubber bushing or go to a set that has the spherical bushing . Note though that the spherical bushings are know to increase road noise in the cabin.

And yes the dreaded snap over steer , caused as you corner from the softer rubber and flexing of the control arms. relocation , lowering and , some tubular lca's will all decrease the likely hood of it.

mattkoly

I just did my upper and lowers...


upper bushings were shot. at a minimum. change out the top bushing while u are in there.

UPRSharad

1. Yes, but I don't recommend it because the factory arms are garbage.
2. These work very well, they're Made in America, and they carry a Lifetime Guarantee:

http://www.uprproducts.com/mustang-c...nsion-kit.html

Boss_Hotrod

I personally love Maximum Motorsports stuff. Not the cheapest out there but they spend a lot of time doing R&D work. They actually recommend leaving the stock upper arms and rubber bushings to allow for flex. A triangulated 4-link system can bind if it doesn't flex enough. For a street car you cant go wrong changing the lower arms out to some tubular ones and installing new rubber bushings into the uppers. If you drag the car mostly/strictly then you can get away with having urethane upper mounts.

UPRSharad

There's zero bind in a triangulated 4-link if you use spherical bushings.

Rubber suspension bushings have no place on a performance car.