bigwitty

the other day my car just quit out on me and did some road side maint and got it running agian by adjusting the timing and go it home its been missing slightly ever since then and i put a timing gun on it and the timing marks are way off from where its firing what could cause this i imediatly jumped to timing chain but thats alot of work if thats not it and yes my spout is disconnected

dawson1112

What do you mean the timing marks are way off from where is firing.

Are you sure your on the #1cylinder with the light?

Passanger side closest to front of engine?

The light only lights up when the plug firs so if its not with in the 10 to 13 degree before top dead center marks , then the timing is off.

Alternatively you can pull the number one plug out , put your thumb or finger on the hole and rotate the engine with a breaker bar till you feel compression , then use a wood dowl or similar to put in the spark plug hole and bring the piston up to tdc. If the wood dowel rod start to go back down and any time you have gone to far.

Now with #1 at tdc on the compression stroke the pointer on the timing cover should be pointing at 0 on the harmonic balancer. If it is not then the balancer outer ring has spun on the rubber damper.

You would need a new balancer to time it accurately and to avoid the balancer coming apart later down the road. You DO NOT want that to happen.

dawson1112

OH and when the timing chain goes bad , the timing mark will jump back and forth and you will never be able to get and accurate timing .

bigwitty

I traced the wire from the number 1 spark plug which Is first on passenger side? And it went to a port in the backside of the cap not to where the diagrams show it but I hooked to that one and I had to turn it back over a half a turn before I even saw the timing marks start on the balancer

bigwitty

And of course by then the car was barely running

dawson1112

Make sure the plug wires on the distributor are in the correct location for the 5.0l HO moter.

On the distributor cap the #1 position is marked with a 1
Don't worry so much about the location of the #1 in comparison to the charts.




On the base of the distributor is a mark as shown in this next photo try to get the orientation of your distributor to how the picture has it at 10 degrees. \ Notice the notch in the lower intake at the 0 mark that is 0 btc move the mark as close as you can from looking at it to the 10. Then hit it with the light again and adjust as nessesary. Oh and ignore the writing that says to turn counter clockwise it is incorrect.

2011scgt

could have jump time

dawson1112

If by jump time you mean the timing chain jumped a tooth, I highly doubt that has happened.

It is just so uncommon for a roller chain to jump unless it has 280k and even then it would likely break before it jumped a tooth. And long before that it would show signs of stretching because it would be so retarded it wouldn't run right. And putting a light on it would result in the timing mark bouncing all over the place.
I've just never seen it happen personally

It is likely that the distributor was stabbed a couple teeth off and he just cant turn it enough to get it to 10 btc.

bigwitty

i really have no clue how the car acted before i got it bought it about a month and a half ago and ran good for about a week of that time and then its been a down hill ride ever since then so i have no clue how it ran before and now 2ce ive been dead on the road and had to advance the timing to get it running agian could i be having computer problems thats not changing the timing right

dawson1112

You may just have a bad pip inside the distributor. This is the pickup that tells the ignition module when to spark. It could be a bad tfi ( ignition module ) or a bad coil

Electronic parts that are going bad tend to fail when they are hot due to thermal resistance. When they get hot the resistance of the internal circuits jump up out of operating range then they fail. It could be that you think by advancing the timing your causing something to work and in all reality it is just that it takes long enough for you to mess with it that the failing item cools enough to function for a bit again.

Take the tfi off the car and take it to auto zone and have it tested. They need to run the test 3 times I hate doing road side diagnostics. And I highly doubt that the computer is pulling so much timing that you have to keep advancing it.
Get your timing back to normal with a light like I have said in previous post 10-13 before tdc. Find someone that can do some simple electronic testing for you if you don't think you can use a multimeter.