Question on mounting aftermarket guages in 92 5.0 hatch.....
11-16-2013, 11:02 PM
#1
2nd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Kansas
Posts: 166
Question on mounting aftermarket guages in 92 5.0 hatch.....
Going to use a cluster I have, but looking to buy guages seperatly.
The cluster was given to me, and will fit and look almost factory on top of the factory set.
Where could I install the vaccuum guage on the engine? Or could I simply T it in on a vaccuum line?
BUT, the cluster is built for 2 inch guages....Can't seem to find 2 inch guages.....
Also, can I attach an analogue temp guage without having to kill the factory one? I want to keep the factory guage working, I just want to have one that TELLS me the temp.
I recently changed my thermostat, did it correctly, positioned it correctly, and the car seems to still be running hot. Needle will go half way up, then go down, and run around the 'A' or 'L' of the normal in the guage. This is more hot than it normally is. I did install a 195 too.....
The cluster was given to me, and will fit and look almost factory on top of the factory set.
Where could I install the vaccuum guage on the engine? Or could I simply T it in on a vaccuum line?
BUT, the cluster is built for 2 inch guages....Can't seem to find 2 inch guages.....
Also, can I attach an analogue temp guage without having to kill the factory one? I want to keep the factory guage working, I just want to have one that TELLS me the temp.
I recently changed my thermostat, did it correctly, positioned it correctly, and the car seems to still be running hot. Needle will go half way up, then go down, and run around the 'A' or 'L' of the normal in the guage. This is more hot than it normally is. I did install a 195 too.....
11-18-2013, 06:43 AM
#3
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 5,061
Don't trust the factory temp gauge, they're not accurate. But your fluctuation in temperature tells me your low on coolant, or you didn't get all the air out of system. Also, pick up a laser temp reader, they're pretty cheap now and just laser the thermostat housing for accurate reference readings.
11-19-2013, 08:44 PM
#4
2nd Gear Member
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Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Kansas
Posts: 166
I've read that the best way to get the air out of the system is to disconnect one of the heater hoses, top off the fluid, and run the car until water comes out of the hose. Will this work? Its still running hotter than I'd like....
11-20-2013, 07:18 AM
#5
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 5,061
I've never done it that way, on a cold start, just get the car up to temp with the cap off on the radiator. You'll know when the thermostat opens when you start to see the coolant move. Let the coolant flow with a couple low revs of the motor keeping note of coolant level. Once you think all the airs out, put the cap back on and drive it for awhile, keeping an eye on temp gauge. Then when you get back home, let it cool and check level again. May have to add alittle.
Last edited by 88 orangepeel notch; 11-20-2013 at 07:23 AM.
11-20-2013, 05:05 PM
#6
2nd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Kansas
Posts: 166
I did it that way. Idled it, toped it off, let it warm up, flow, toped off again.....Then, it STILL spikes the temp and then settles lower but still warmer.
It IS within the normal range....Normal as in the 'Normal' on the guage.....Won't be able to put a better temp guage in until december....Has me nervous.
Is it REALLY ok when its within the 'normal' on the temp guage?
It IS within the normal range....Normal as in the 'Normal' on the guage.....Won't be able to put a better temp guage in until december....Has me nervous.
Is it REALLY ok when its within the 'normal' on the temp guage?
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