Taking Bumps Too Hard
#1
Taking Bumps Too Hard
Hey guys, I've do some suspension mods and now every time I go over a bump, it feels like I ran over a motorcycle. My suspension mods include: Eibach sway bars, Ford Racing B lowering springs, Maximum Motor Sports subframe Connectors, 255/40R17 Nitto 555's, and my shocks and struts are Monroe Sensatrac struts. I was told that upgrading my dampers/ shocks & struts will fix this problem (or at least help it out). Do you guys have any other suggestions, or think that putting on some better shocks and struts such as Koni's or Bilsteins will help? Thank you for your advance in advance!
#2
sounds to me like you got it SLAMMED TOO LOW. I'm guilty, I have cut springs and the same goes on.
Try installing polyurethane isolators on top and bottom of the springs like the factory did, then lower your tire pressure to 30.
It sounds like all the impact absorption is being absorbed on the struts and shocks, and the springs are so low they are not helping rebound the weight.
If that don't work, you have to get adjustable struts and shocks to line up the expanding and retracting lengths of the new springs.
Try installing polyurethane isolators on top and bottom of the springs like the factory did, then lower your tire pressure to 30.
It sounds like all the impact absorption is being absorbed on the struts and shocks, and the springs are so low they are not helping rebound the weight.
If that don't work, you have to get adjustable struts and shocks to line up the expanding and retracting lengths of the new springs.
Last edited by aode08; 01-03-2014 at 05:13 PM.
#6
what exact model is your car?
your rear springs are a bit stiff with those tires too. a stock spring rate on a 1965 mustang V8 is 95 lbs in the rear, on a heavier high perf car like a 1970 boss 302 it is around 190.
your rear springs are a bit stiff with those tires too. a stock spring rate on a 1965 mustang V8 is 95 lbs in the rear, on a heavier high perf car like a 1970 boss 302 it is around 190.
#7
Welcome to the world of lowering. The b springs have a much higher spring rate than the stock springs, your giving up comfort for handling. Then on top of that you added sub frame connectors, that stiffens the entire chassis. For example , before sub frame connectors , jacking up the front wheel raises only the front wheel off the ground, after sub frame connectors jacking up the front wheel raises the rear also. You have taken the flex out of the cars body. They were designed to flex by ford so they gave a smoother ride. Upside of frame connectors - helps keep the car planted on hard takeoffs and aggressive cornering.. downside is- rougher ride loss of some comfort.
How new are the springs? if you just installed them , you have to give them some time to settle in. Could be a month could be 3 months or more before the springs fully settle in.
It may help to install some cc plates that allow you to add a spacer at the top of the front struts to give back some of the travel that was lost when you lowered it.
Because the further you compress the shocks/struts the stiffer they become.
It really boils down to give and take. You give the car a little better handling , you take away a little comfort from your self.
To get the best of both you need to go to something adjustable such as coil overs .
How new are the springs? if you just installed them , you have to give them some time to settle in. Could be a month could be 3 months or more before the springs fully settle in.
It may help to install some cc plates that allow you to add a spacer at the top of the front struts to give back some of the travel that was lost when you lowered it.
Because the further you compress the shocks/struts the stiffer they become.
It really boils down to give and take. You give the car a little better handling , you take away a little comfort from your self.
To get the best of both you need to go to something adjustable such as coil overs .
Last edited by dawson1112; 01-04-2014 at 06:05 AM.
#8
barnett468: It's a 93 LX 5.0 with T5 transmission
dawson1112: I put the springs in well over a year ago. What really did it was when I put the Eibach anti roll kit (sway bars) in and the MM sub frame connectors. That's when I noticed the sudden loss of ability to take bumps. When I put the sway bars in, I was shocked to see that when I lifted one side of the rear up with a jack, the other followed. The subframe connectors came a week after the sway bars, so it was a little of both in my opinion.
My overall goal of this car is to have a healthy balance of everything. Obviously, I can't have it all, but what matters to me most is that I can launch straight and not fishtail for saftey reasons and take a turn at reasonable speeds. I'm not going to race the car or take it to the drag strip (maybe once or twice), I'm just looking for something safe and fun. If the car takes bumps like crap, that's fine as long as I can launch it straight and take a reasonable turn (these cars cannot take turns anyways lol), but if there is something I can do to help it out, why not? I was considering putting in the CC plate in it, with some better dampers after I finished my SN95 Cobra brake/5 lug upgrade. I was just wondering if those would help?
dawson1112: I put the springs in well over a year ago. What really did it was when I put the Eibach anti roll kit (sway bars) in and the MM sub frame connectors. That's when I noticed the sudden loss of ability to take bumps. When I put the sway bars in, I was shocked to see that when I lifted one side of the rear up with a jack, the other followed. The subframe connectors came a week after the sway bars, so it was a little of both in my opinion.
My overall goal of this car is to have a healthy balance of everything. Obviously, I can't have it all, but what matters to me most is that I can launch straight and not fishtail for saftey reasons and take a turn at reasonable speeds. I'm not going to race the car or take it to the drag strip (maybe once or twice), I'm just looking for something safe and fun. If the car takes bumps like crap, that's fine as long as I can launch it straight and take a reasonable turn (these cars cannot take turns anyways lol), but if there is something I can do to help it out, why not? I was considering putting in the CC plate in it, with some better dampers after I finished my SN95 Cobra brake/5 lug upgrade. I was just wondering if those would help?
#9
The Fox Mustang can handle like there's no tomorrow with the right modifications, mine out handled the 2007 350Z I owned for 4 years, that had also been modified, as well as my 04 Cobra, which has also been modified. The light weight of the Fox compared to most cars makes a big difference in taking corners. CC plates will further improve handling, but will introduce a little more noise the equation, which you may not care for. For me, the biggest difference on predictable handling was aftermarket rear control arms, especially the lowers - they pretty much got rid of the unpredictable snap oversteer (uncontrollable 360's). If your sway bars are adjustable, you could try softening them. Otherwise your answer is softer shocks and struts, which will hurt handling, but not significantly affect straight launches.
#10
Last edited by barnett468; 01-04-2014 at 07:44 PM.