robotnix

just to add that when my car stalls I can start it back right away.

yurizx6r

Well today I checked the grounds around the headlights and everything looks fine. I even added a 6 gauge ground wire from the lower intake manifold to the chassis... nothing it's still doing it. I wonder if it's the ignition switch or the headlight switch??? I also noticed today that if you start the car with the headlights off, the voltage meter will be just below the middle and climb up the the positive side. If you start it with the headlights on, the voltage meter will be more on the negative side and either not climb or climb up SLOWLY.

robotnix

I'm no mechanic far from it but a friend of mine told me since I just got my mustang to change the spark plugs and spark cables... couldn't this cause stalling if it's not providing proper spark?? I may be very wrong just throwing it out there.

yurizx6r

Since you just got your car you could start with the basics. Clean your EGR valve, swap your distributor cap (30 bucks and it is a maintenance thing), swap the spark plugs and wires (never hurts if they are old), run some sea foam through it (have somebody show you how to do it right or you could hydro lock your motor), put some lucas in the gas tank, check your ignition coil, and have your batter/starter/alternator tested. Also check your grounds and wires. Your problems sounds like a dirty EGR up until you said about the windows. Do all those things and if that does not work consider your ignition switch (15 bucks at latemodelrestoration.com). My problem seems different from yours. As soon as I figure it out, I'll let you know. I'm thinking perhaps the ignition switch or headlight switch at this point!? I hate wiring.

dawson1112

[QUOTE=yurizx6r;8394047]wonder if it's the ignition switch or the headlight switch??? QUOTE]

Which is why I advised you in post #7 to pull the headlight switch and look at the connections for burnt, loose or broken connections.

robotnix

thank you yuri. I'll keep you posted on progress and if my issue gets resovled.

yurizx6r

Thanks Dawson, I'm going to do that tonight. I'm going to a buddy of mine who does nothing but buy and part out Mustangs. I'm going to take mine out and look at it. Hopefully he has an extra one I can at least test before I spend the money on a new one.

yurizx6r

Robotnix, I would start with the routine maintenance stuff regardless if you have a problem or not. It's not going to hurt anything and you will not waste money doing it either way. That way you are doing the car some good and you can rule a few things out. I would still check your grounds and wires while your at it. Just go through the list I gave you and go from there. Please let me know about your progress as well.

dawson1112

There is something else I just thought of,
It may need to have a base Idle reset performed on it.

This sets the idle with electrical load and well as with out so the eec can determine where to keep the IAC balanced at.

1. Disconnect your negative on your battery to clear/reset your computers memory. caution when ever you disconnect your battery remove the negative first then positive, reconnect in the reverse order, if you dont you can possibly cause a battery explosion or destroy your computer. Leave your battery disconnected for at least 30 mins to let the capacitors in the ECM to discharge fully.

2. Disconnect the IAC connector.

3. Reconnect your battery.

4. Start the motor, with the IAC plug disconnected.

5. Set your idle, via the stop plate screw on the throttle body, between 650-850 rpms, it is best to set it at the lowest setting to prevent idle problems, such as surging, rolling etc.

6. Turn the motor off and reconnect the plug on the IAC.

7. Start the motor at let it run for 2-4 mins at idle with all accessories off, if the motor stalls out or the idle drops to low repeat steps 4-6.

8. Once your idle is good, turn the motor off and wait 2 mins, then start it back up and run for another 2 mins with all accessories on.

9. Check your TPS voltage. It should be at .98v if not refer below on how to set it.

10. If your idle and TPS are good, allow 10-20 mins to let the computer "relearn" under normal driving conditions

yurizx6r

You're saying my new Trick Flow manifold could have thrown off my TPS sensor setting? One other thing I noticed is it is starting differently. Rather than doing the normal surge when you start it up cold it goes strait to 750 rpms and slowly climbs to 900 until it warms up (then idles at 750). If it's cold it almost dies, and it did die once. I had to restart it. However, I did just delete the EGR valve and two coolant lines that go the the throttle body. Related?