Broken AODE to T5 swap in progress - Page 2 - MustangForums.com


5.0L (1979-1995) Mustang Technical discussions on 5.0 Liter Mustangs within. This does not include the 5.0 from the 2011 Mustang GT. That information is in the 2005-1011 section.

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Old 10-30-2014, 11:05 AM   #11  
dawson1112
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The 1 piece gaskets say to not use any kind of sealer, and if you have already got it installed I wouldn't worry about it. I always have used a little RTV in the corners, and up front where the timing cover and block meet.

In the case of your old gasket it looks like the pan was dropped once before and they tried to semi fix the old gasket with RTV. You wouldn't believe some of the oil pan gasket fixes I have seen over the years, including hot glue, bondo, fiberglass mat, and my favorite was what appeared to be 4 large caulking gun tubes of bathroom tile caulk that was blindly smeared in every possible place it could reach on the seem of the pan.
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Old 10-30-2014, 11:17 AM   #12  
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I would have pulled the engine out to do the job my self, its much easier than laying on your back and getting up and down over and over. And it actually makes the job much quicker.

Hopefully your gasket came with the blue alignment/retaining pins and your install goes off with out a hitch. Keeping the gasket lined up while laying on your back under a car is a pain to say the least.
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Old 10-31-2014, 09:15 PM   #13  
mbeer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 88 orangepeel notch View Post
Great job so far, thanks for the updates and pic's. It reminds me of why I'm done modding my car lol. Good luck on the final steps.

Also, I thought in the gasket directions they call for a dab of rtv in the corners like mjr said. Hope it's not to late.
Hell no it's not too late. I can't get the effin oil pump bolted up with the shaft in place inside the effin oil pan. Been stumped on that for 2 days now.
I even tried lifting the motor up as far as I can without disconnecting everything and broke some stuff doing so.

I'm ready to try some masking tape around the end of the shaft that goes into the distributor so it'll wedge in and hang there while I install the pump.
Then I can get the tape out when I remove the distributor to crank the pump

Of course it don't help that I have no help either. Another pair of hands would go a long way.

I can't pull the motor with the harbor freight crane I borrowed. I don't trust it to lift that high because the boom is too short to reach the middle of the engine compartment and I had to over-extend it past the last adjustment hole.

The crane in my previous pic was a rental and I had to take it back as bucks are low.

Anyway, when I finally get the oil pump in proper I will put a dab of RTV in the gasket corners cos I don't EVER want to do this again...EVER.

The PO was smart. HE got rid of the car.
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Old 11-01-2014, 06:34 AM   #14  
dawson1112
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On one end of that oil pump shaft, there should be a pinch washer. That washer is supposed to retain the oil pump shaft in the pump when the distributer is pulled. It also makes dropping the shaft into the engine easy when its out of the vehicle and upside down. Because typically the engine would be out of the car and on a stand that can rotate. Make sure that washer is there, pull the dizzy out , use a magnetic wand like the telescoping kind that has a large magnet on the end of it.... slip it down into the area where the dizzy connects to the pump shaft,,,, Now when you put the shaft up through the bottom of the engine the magnet will hold the shaft in place while you install the pump..... I have also known pple to remove the pinch washer and install the pump, then drop the pump shaft down through the top of the engine.
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Old 11-01-2014, 10:03 AM   #15  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dawson1112 View Post
I have also known pple to remove the pinch washer and install the pump, then drop the pump shaft down through the top of the engine.
And those are the people I call retards, cause when you go to pull the dizzy I've had them pull up out with the dizzy for a brief second enough to unseat it from the pump end and drop all of a sudden right into the pan...that's when the big ole phaaaaaaakkkkk roles off the tounge......the washer is what prevents all that when set at the proper depth
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Old 11-04-2014, 06:43 PM   #16  
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Well I got some help last night and we got my oil pump on. I tried using a magnet to hold the shaft up but it was no go. I couldn't get the magnet down the tiny hole.

I ended up using a piece of masking tape to wedge it into the bottom of the distributor and that worked.


I got the pan on today...with some RTV in the corners.
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Got the engine up a little. I broke some stuff while taking off the upper intake manifold.
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First thing I broke was a T fitting under the intake. I didn't know it was there until I heard the snap.
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The next stupid thing I did was lean on the air cleaner housing.
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I found this rotted hose while I was in there too.
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More to come...
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Old 11-04-2014, 07:35 PM   #17  
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eh those are all easy fixes.

Most of these cars don't even have the stock air box anymore, they have a cold air intake of some sort. And as far as the t fitting goes you can get those for a couple bucks at autozone. I almost always expect to replace some kind of vacuum line or fitting when I pull an intake off, just due to age and the heat they endure.
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Old 11-04-2014, 09:51 PM   #18  
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future reference... 1/4" vac hose slipped over the end of the oil pump driveshaft, through the distributor hole, then tied to something, works wonders.
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Old 11-05-2014, 06:45 PM   #19  
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future reference... 1/4" vac hose slipped over the end of the oil pump driveshaft, through the distributor hole, then tied to something, works wonders.
Oh cool. I never thought of that.

I got my rear main seal done and block plate on. Flywheel is hanging there too.
I still have to put the rest of the bolts in and torque it.

I don't have much time to work on it during the week before it gets dark or I have other family stuff to do.

I'm going to have to do something with my distributor. It is hard to turn and I don't have the $$ for a new one. Any suggestions?

Last edited by mbeer; 11-07-2014 at 02:24 PM.
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Old 11-07-2014, 02:23 PM   #20  
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Got the flywheel torqued up with blue loctite and installed the pilot bearing and clutch...with blue loctite. Was in the process of removing the shifter for the auto and it started to hail.

Oh well, maybe it'll pass and let me proceed. At least it's getting closer to done.
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