fuel pump not turning on
12-14-2014, 06:42 PM
#1
3rd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 501
fuel pump not turning on
1995 gt
i finally got the engine back together.
car ran before i took it apart, but i took it apart about 3 years ago...
new battery, took a shot at starting it up.
no dice
pump is not coming on.
when i turn the key, i dont hear it prime like i should, i just hear a click from the back of the car.
i checked the reset button in the trunk and it wasnt tripped (button is down and pushing it didnt make it go down any further)
so, how do i start trying to fix this?
check for codes?
check for power at the pump?
fuses?
all of the above?
seems like if the click i hear is actually related to the pump, then the power is getting there but its just not working.
thanks in advance for any help
i finally got the engine back together.
car ran before i took it apart, but i took it apart about 3 years ago...
new battery, took a shot at starting it up.
no dice
pump is not coming on.
when i turn the key, i dont hear it prime like i should, i just hear a click from the back of the car.
i checked the reset button in the trunk and it wasnt tripped (button is down and pushing it didnt make it go down any further)
so, how do i start trying to fix this?
check for codes?
check for power at the pump?
fuses?
all of the above?
seems like if the click i hear is actually related to the pump, then the power is getting there but its just not working.
thanks in advance for any help
Last edited by 9550; 12-14-2014 at 07:25 PM.
12-20-2014, 12:44 PM
#3
3rd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 501
hi guys
so, i checked wire #11 on the ccrm which according to the manual i have is for the fuel pump. got 12volts. so far so good
i was contemplating taking the tank down so i could measure the voltage at the pump. then i was looking at the wiring diagram and it appears that the line coming out of the inertia switch goes right to the pump, so i checked the voltage going to the inertia switch (green/yellow wire), got 6.49 volts. is this typical or do i have a problem?
i then jumped the green/yellow to the brown/pink (to bypass the inertia switch) that allegedly runs to the pump and nothing happened (i was hoping the pump would come on of course)
so, if 6.5volts is correct, then my pump is dead, and if 6.5 is wrong, i have some other issue that i hope somebody here can assist with.
anybody have any info on this?
i was working on this alone, so if i need to have somebody turn the key for me so i can look at the meter right away, i can arrange for that if it matters. by myself i just turned the key to on, then went to the back to measure.(i suspect this doesnt matter, but maybe i need to catch it right at the start for some reason)
thanks in advance
so, i checked wire #11 on the ccrm which according to the manual i have is for the fuel pump. got 12volts. so far so good
i was contemplating taking the tank down so i could measure the voltage at the pump. then i was looking at the wiring diagram and it appears that the line coming out of the inertia switch goes right to the pump, so i checked the voltage going to the inertia switch (green/yellow wire), got 6.49 volts. is this typical or do i have a problem?
i then jumped the green/yellow to the brown/pink (to bypass the inertia switch) that allegedly runs to the pump and nothing happened (i was hoping the pump would come on of course)
so, if 6.5volts is correct, then my pump is dead, and if 6.5 is wrong, i have some other issue that i hope somebody here can assist with.
anybody have any info on this?
i was working on this alone, so if i need to have somebody turn the key for me so i can look at the meter right away, i can arrange for that if it matters. by myself i just turned the key to on, then went to the back to measure.(i suspect this doesnt matter, but maybe i need to catch it right at the start for some reason)
thanks in advance
12-20-2014, 08:03 PM
#4
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: RI
Posts: 254
hi guys
so, i checked wire #11 on the ccrm which according to the manual i have is for the fuel pump. got 12volts. so far so good
i was contemplating taking the tank down so i could measure the voltage at the pump. then i was looking at the wiring diagram and it appears that the line coming out of the inertia switch goes right to the pump, so i checked the voltage going to the inertia switch (green/yellow wire), got 6.49 volts. is this typical or do i have a problem?
i then jumped the green/yellow to the brown/pink (to bypass the inertia switch) that allegedly runs to the pump and nothing happened (i was hoping the pump would come on of course)
so, if 6.5volts is correct, then my pump is dead, and if 6.5 is wrong, i have some other issue that i hope somebody here can assist with.
anybody have any info on this?
i was working on this alone, so if i need to have somebody turn the key for me so i can look at the meter right away, i can arrange for that if it matters. by myself i just turned the key to on, then went to the back to measure.(i suspect this doesnt matter, but maybe i need to catch it right at the start for some reason)
thanks in advance
so, i checked wire #11 on the ccrm which according to the manual i have is for the fuel pump. got 12volts. so far so good
i was contemplating taking the tank down so i could measure the voltage at the pump. then i was looking at the wiring diagram and it appears that the line coming out of the inertia switch goes right to the pump, so i checked the voltage going to the inertia switch (green/yellow wire), got 6.49 volts. is this typical or do i have a problem?
i then jumped the green/yellow to the brown/pink (to bypass the inertia switch) that allegedly runs to the pump and nothing happened (i was hoping the pump would come on of course)
so, if 6.5volts is correct, then my pump is dead, and if 6.5 is wrong, i have some other issue that i hope somebody here can assist with.
anybody have any info on this?
i was working on this alone, so if i need to have somebody turn the key for me so i can look at the meter right away, i can arrange for that if it matters. by myself i just turned the key to on, then went to the back to measure.(i suspect this doesnt matter, but maybe i need to catch it right at the start for some reason)
thanks in advance
12-21-2014, 01:02 AM
#5
3rd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 501
ok thanks
so then the 'electrical problem' would have to be that the ccrm is screwed up, no? im no electrician, but i have 12volts going into the ccrm, and 6.5 coming out, seems the ccrm is the problem.
is there a tester for the ccrm? would there be codes if the ccrm was bad?
thanks in advance
so then the 'electrical problem' would have to be that the ccrm is screwed up, no? im no electrician, but i have 12volts going into the ccrm, and 6.5 coming out, seems the ccrm is the problem.
is there a tester for the ccrm? would there be codes if the ccrm was bad?
thanks in advance
12-21-2014, 01:49 AM
#7
3rd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 501
interesting. so if when i checked the voltage, i didnt use a good ground, this could have given me a low reading?
lets assume when i measured though i had a good ground point, you would then think that some component isnt grounded well?
lets assume when i measured though i had a good ground point, you would then think that some component isnt grounded well?
12-21-2014, 09:41 AM
#9
3rd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 501
in case it matters, i didnt measure voltage leaving the ccrm right at the ccrm, i only measured the 6.5 at the inertia switch. as far as i can tell, there is nothing between the ccrm and the inertia switch, so i assume that the voltage at the switch is the same as whats leaving the ccrm.
12-21-2014, 10:42 AM
#10
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: RI
Posts: 254
in case it matters, i didnt measure voltage leaving the ccrm right at the ccrm, i only measured the 6.5 at the inertia switch. as far as i can tell, there is nothing between the ccrm and the inertia switch, so i assume that the voltage at the switch is the same as whats leaving the ccrm.
Of you could waste $200-$400 on a new CCRM just to find that you have a break in a wire somewhere between point A and point B.
This isn't a complicated concept... But what do I know
I only work on cars every day.
