MSD distributor Vs 6A Ignition box
#21
Well it's a Christmas gift, so I'm not going to complain either way. lol I'm just wondering which would be better. My future plans is to bore it out to a 347 with AFR heads, so I figure 30lbl injectors should do it. I never plan to do forced induction.
Either way, more spark never hurts. Even if it's all stock. I'm just wondering which would be better to go with first. I'm leaning toward the distributor and just curious if I will notice any difference.
Either way, more spark never hurts. Even if it's all stock. I'm just wondering which would be better to go with first. I'm leaning toward the distributor and just curious if I will notice any difference.
#22
The chances are I'm just going to buy somebody else's motor that they spent all the time and money doing. I know a guy who buys and strips foxbodys constantly (legally, no shady crap), and he always has a motor for sale. I'm tired of taking the hit and I'm just going to buy one pre-done that has a Dart block 347 when I'm ready.
#23
Update, I ended up passing on the box HOWEVER, I'm going to buy one new the day after Christmas. The MSD box was a 6A, but it seems like a better idea to get the 6AL to have the rev limiter. Also, apparently with the 6AL you can make a kill switch that acts like and anti-theft device. I have the Bama chip which you can just switch the tune to "5" to kill the computer, but I don't like doing that unless I park it in a really shady spot. If I make a little toggle switch it would be easy and I could hid it under the seat/dash or some other place. That makes it worth it to me even if I do not notice a difference in performance because I was considering putting on an anti-theft device soon anyways.
I ended up getting the distributor used, but I'm buying the 6AL box new come tomorrow. If I mount it behind the glove box or under the driver seat do I have to buy cable extensions?
I ended up getting the distributor used, but I'm buying the 6AL box new come tomorrow. If I mount it behind the glove box or under the driver seat do I have to buy cable extensions?
Last edited by yurizx6r; 12-25-2014 at 03:22 PM.
#25
I'm not worried. I can test drive the motor before I buy it. The guy I know is legit, and I've been buying parts off of him for years. Why not buy one that's all done up for half the price over spending the money and doing it yourself when you have all receipts of work and parts? Granted, I would never buy a motor off anybody else, but he is the only exception. And if something went wrong, he would refund me.
#26
I'm not worried. I can test drive the motor before I buy it. The guy I know is legit, and I've been buying parts off of him for years. Why not buy one that's all done up for half the price over spending the money and doing it yourself when you have all receipts of work and parts? Granted, I would never buy a motor off anybody else, but he is the only exception. And if something went wrong, he would refund me.
#27
I've seen him sell brand new freshly rebuilt motors that you could eat off of with a Dart block, 331 or 347, heads, roller rockers, Canton oil pan/stick, new gaskets, new lifters, new push rods, ARP everything, forged pistons, etc etc for 3,000 to max 4,700 was the highest I've ever seen them. All this guy does is buy perfect Mustangs and strip them down for parts.
#28
3000 for a dart block with all that stuff and definataly not with the heads.....= he is using inferior parts, at 4700 semi decent, you should research it more and you'll see, pm woody/jim at ford strokers, that's all he builds and 100's of them each year......hence the name ford strokers. I'm not being mean or anything but an shp from jim and it's the cheapest anywhere I've seen is 1700.00......factor in the machine work, which includes balancing, your at an easy 1000.00.......h-beam rods because i beams are inferior in a block of this proportion then add the rotating assembly, and all your bolt on such as pan oil pump, balancer, ect ect, because you are not gonna use any stock type stuff add good heads 1500 on the cheap to 2200 for good.........for a short block at 4700 I see him giving you something decent but not a long block and if he is I fell sorry for him losing his **** on motors and it's a win win for you but at 3000 you'd better find out all the components. good luck
Last edited by mjr46; 12-27-2014 at 08:42 AM.
#29
My dart short block with cam and timing chain and oil pan, oil pump etc was $6200! That's didn't include heads, intake, water pump etc. It's nothing short of amazing if your getting an entire dart long block for the money you mentioned.
#30
Like I said, it's typical for him to buy perfect foxbodys that somebody built and either got board with or lost their job, so they sell it to this guy for cheap and he parts them out. I've never seen one for more than 4,700 so far. Foxbodys where I live sell for cheap. You're better off just parting it out then selling the whole car. I'm going that route and I know what I'm doing. Obviously the more done up the motor is the more the price will go up, but you're still saving money doing it that way. He test drives all the cars before he buys them and makes sure the motors are good, so I wouldn't worry about buying anything from him.