Roller rocker adjustment question
#1
Roller rocker adjustment question
Hey guys, this is my first time adjusting roller rockers. My question is if a cylinder is on overlap, is it normal to be able to move the push rod up and down!?
I did exactly what trick flow said (Trick Flow heads and push rods) put cylinder #1 on TDC then tightened the rocker until I could not move the push rod back and forth. Then I tightened the push rod almost half a turn, then took my hex key in sequence with my wrench to complete the half turn. Moved the crank 1/4 turn, and then moved to the next cylinder in proper sequence (5, etc, etc,).
I also just realized that maybe I did it in the wrong order? Mine is a 93, so with a Ford E303 cam, do I use 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8 or the 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8 firing order?
I did exactly what trick flow said (Trick Flow heads and push rods) put cylinder #1 on TDC then tightened the rocker until I could not move the push rod back and forth. Then I tightened the push rod almost half a turn, then took my hex key in sequence with my wrench to complete the half turn. Moved the crank 1/4 turn, and then moved to the next cylinder in proper sequence (5, etc, etc,).
I also just realized that maybe I did it in the wrong order? Mine is a 93, so with a Ford E303 cam, do I use 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8 or the 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8 firing order?
Last edited by yurizx6r; 03-15-2015 at 07:00 PM.
#2
Scratch that. I just realized that I did do the wrong firing order. lol It's a 93, so it's an H.O., so that firing order is 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8. I just verified this by my distributor cap.
I just redid it and now everything is pretty snug/tight all the way around. Except for one piston, you can move a push rod a little, but not that much. I knew something was up.
I just redid it and now everything is pretty snug/tight all the way around. Except for one piston, you can move a push rod a little, but not that much. I knew something was up.
Last edited by yurizx6r; 03-15-2015 at 09:05 PM.
#4
scroll down to preferred valve adjustment = only real way to do it for stud mount and get it right the first time!
http://www.flowtechinduction.com/tech-info/
http://www.flowtechinduction.com/tech-info/
#5
They are stud mount.
I'm going to recheck them tonight when I get home before I put the valve covers on. When a cylinder is on overlap, how tight should the push rods be? should you be able to twist them at all?
I'm going to recheck them tonight when I get home before I put the valve covers on. When a cylinder is on overlap, how tight should the push rods be? should you be able to twist them at all?
#7
I'm thinking that way makes more sense. Thank you for that. I guess I will do that tonight and and stick with half a turn. I just don't feel like throwing away 40 bucks in gaskets if I have to take off the manifold and valve covers again.
#8
you shouldn't have to throw away any gaskets, the upper plenuim gasket, if I'm careful enough I always reuse and as long as you aren't using cheap cork gaskets for the rocker covers, you'll be fine....I always use the reusable rubber valve cover gaskets
#9
I never go cheap on gaskets either, but I'm saying once they have been through a few heat cycles I always change them no matter what. I have not put the valve covers on yet, so I'm fine there. I ran into another problem last night, a plug in one of the bolt holes where the main stud for the power steering shaft and a/c line go into. That's what I get for buying used heads. Couldn't get it out, so I'm calling in a buddy.