heat issues
05-02-2015, 09:30 PM
#1
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: canada
Posts: 22
heat issues
i have a 1994 mustang gt with 2 problems right now the first: when you start it up it idles,runs,sounds and drives perfect but after 2 or 3 minutes of driving when it warms up it starts to drive like crap the idle hangs when shifting, doesn't shift as nice and sound as good as before?
problem 2 is my engine runs really hot it doesnt overheat but run hotter than a normal stang keep in mind i do have medium mods and also smells like coolant inside the car when driving with the heat and vents off and closed so i dont think its a heater core. and no leaks of fluid under car and rad and overflow are all at proper levels please help me
problem 2 is my engine runs really hot it doesnt overheat but run hotter than a normal stang keep in mind i do have medium mods and also smells like coolant inside the car when driving with the heat and vents off and closed so i dont think its a heater core. and no leaks of fluid under car and rad and overflow are all at proper levels please help me
05-03-2015, 05:28 AM
#2
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: ohio
Posts: 3,628
Verify your coolant fan is coming on , the 94-95 mustangs have a 195 thermostat from the factory so they tend to run between 195-210 normally any ways. Mods, advanced timing and such can cause them to run a little hotter. I suggest you drop to a 180-185 thermostat. Don't go lower than 180 though as the car wont get up to temp for the ecu to go into closed loop. Get the car up to operating temp then run the Koeo/koer to check for codes.
05-03-2015, 07:13 PM
#3
4th Gear Member
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: CA
Posts: 1,670
You problem sounds like it starts to run like crap when it changes from open to closed loop mode, which typically isn’t an issue with the cooling system. Closed loop is when the ECU starts to listen to the various sensors on the motor to determine what is going on with the motor so it starts to adjust fuel trims, timing etc etc. A common fault is a dirty Mass Air Flow sensor. Get some MAF sensor cleaner from your local auto parts store and clean it and see if it starts to run better. If that doesn’t work, I’d hook up a scanner that can read live data and see what the sensors are saying about the motor. Pay attention to the MAF sensor, O2 sensors, temp sensor, short & long term fuel trims, and open/closed loop status.
As for the heat issue, check the radiator cap for damage/corrosion. If it hasn’t been replaced in a few years then it might be time. If it isn’t sealing correctly or opening/closing correctly it can cause high heat issues. Also check the radiator for blockage or damaged fins. Leaves, bugs, plastic bags etc often get stuck on the radiator, or rocks and other debris damaging the fins and won’t let air flow through it. If you haven’t done a coolant flush in a few years then it is past due for one. You should replace the coolant every 2-3 years. Its one of the few liquids in the motor that should be replaced after a set amount of time not milage. It also wouldn’t hurt to rent a pressure tester from your local auto parts store and pressure testing the cooling system to make sure it isn’t leaking. If you are smelling coolant in the cab then you are leaking coolant somewhere, which means the cooling system can’t get up to proper pressure which lowers the boiling point compared to a pressurized system.
Good luck...
As for the heat issue, check the radiator cap for damage/corrosion. If it hasn’t been replaced in a few years then it might be time. If it isn’t sealing correctly or opening/closing correctly it can cause high heat issues. Also check the radiator for blockage or damaged fins. Leaves, bugs, plastic bags etc often get stuck on the radiator, or rocks and other debris damaging the fins and won’t let air flow through it. If you haven’t done a coolant flush in a few years then it is past due for one. You should replace the coolant every 2-3 years. Its one of the few liquids in the motor that should be replaced after a set amount of time not milage. It also wouldn’t hurt to rent a pressure tester from your local auto parts store and pressure testing the cooling system to make sure it isn’t leaking. If you are smelling coolant in the cab then you are leaking coolant somewhere, which means the cooling system can’t get up to proper pressure which lowers the boiling point compared to a pressurized system.
Good luck...
Last edited by petrock; 05-03-2015 at 07:19 PM.
05-04-2015, 07:36 AM
#4
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: canada
Posts: 22
You problem sounds like it starts to run like crap when it changes from open to closed loop mode, which typically isn’t an issue with the cooling system. Closed loop is when the ECU starts to listen to the various sensors on the motor to determine what is going on with the motor so it starts to adjust fuel trims, timing etc etc. A common fault is a dirty Mass Air Flow sensor. Get some MAF sensor cleaner from your local auto parts store and clean it and see if it starts to run better. If that doesn’t work, I’d hook up a scanner that can read live data and see what the sensors are saying about the motor. Pay attention to the MAF sensor, O2 sensors, temp sensor, short & long term fuel trims, and open/closed loop status.
As for the heat issue, check the radiator cap for damage/corrosion. If it hasn’t been replaced in a few years then it might be time. If it isn’t sealing correctly or opening/closing correctly it can cause high heat issues. Also check the radiator for blockage or damaged fins. Leaves, bugs, plastic bags etc often get stuck on the radiator, or rocks and other debris damaging the fins and won’t let air flow through it. If you haven’t done a coolant flush in a few years then it is past due for one. You should replace the coolant every 2-3 years. Its one of the few liquids in the motor that should be replaced after a set amount of time not milage. It also wouldn’t hurt to rent a pressure tester from your local auto parts store and pressure testing the cooling system to make sure it isn’t leaking. If you are smelling coolant in the cab then you are leaking coolant somewhere, which means the cooling system can’t get up to proper pressure which lowers the boiling point compared to a pressurized system.
Good luck...
As for the heat issue, check the radiator cap for damage/corrosion. If it hasn’t been replaced in a few years then it might be time. If it isn’t sealing correctly or opening/closing correctly it can cause high heat issues. Also check the radiator for blockage or damaged fins. Leaves, bugs, plastic bags etc often get stuck on the radiator, or rocks and other debris damaging the fins and won’t let air flow through it. If you haven’t done a coolant flush in a few years then it is past due for one. You should replace the coolant every 2-3 years. Its one of the few liquids in the motor that should be replaced after a set amount of time not milage. It also wouldn’t hurt to rent a pressure tester from your local auto parts store and pressure testing the cooling system to make sure it isn’t leaking. If you are smelling coolant in the cab then you are leaking coolant somewhere, which means the cooling system can’t get up to proper pressure which lowers the boiling point compared to a pressurized system.
Good luck...
05-04-2015, 07:38 AM
#5
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: canada
Posts: 22
Verify your coolant fan is coming on , the 94-95 mustangs have a 195 thermostat from the factory so they tend to run between 195-210 normally any ways. Mods, advanced timing and such can cause them to run a little hotter. I suggest you drop to a 180-185 thermostat. Don't go lower than 180 though as the car wont get up to temp for the ecu to go into closed loop. Get the car up to operating temp then run the Koeo/koer to check for codes.
05-04-2015, 03:39 PM
#6
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: canada
Posts: 22
You problem sounds like it starts to run like crap when it changes from open to closed loop mode, which typically isn’t an issue with the cooling system. Closed loop is when the ECU starts to listen to the various sensors on the motor to determine what is going on with the motor so it starts to adjust fuel trims, timing etc etc. A common fault is a dirty Mass Air Flow sensor. Get some MAF sensor cleaner from your local auto parts store and clean it and see if it starts to run better. If that doesn’t work, I’d hook up a scanner that can read live data and see what the sensors are saying about the motor. Pay attention to the MAF sensor, O2 sensors, temp sensor, short & long term fuel trims, and open/closed loop status.
As for the heat issue, check the radiator cap for damage/corrosion. If it hasn’t been replaced in a few years then it might be time. If it isn’t sealing correctly or opening/closing correctly it can cause high heat issues. Also check the radiator for blockage or damaged fins. Leaves, bugs, plastic bags etc often get stuck on the radiator, or rocks and other debris damaging the fins and won’t let air flow through it. If you haven’t done a coolant flush in a few years then it is past due for one. You should replace the coolant every 2-3 years. Its one of the few liquids in the motor that should be replaced after a set amount of time not milage. It also wouldn’t hurt to rent a pressure tester from your local auto parts store and pressure testing the cooling system to make sure it isn’t leaking. If you are smelling coolant in the cab then you are leaking coolant somewhere, which means the cooling system can’t get up to proper pressure which lowers the boiling point compared to a pressurized system.
Good luck...
As for the heat issue, check the radiator cap for damage/corrosion. If it hasn’t been replaced in a few years then it might be time. If it isn’t sealing correctly or opening/closing correctly it can cause high heat issues. Also check the radiator for blockage or damaged fins. Leaves, bugs, plastic bags etc often get stuck on the radiator, or rocks and other debris damaging the fins and won’t let air flow through it. If you haven’t done a coolant flush in a few years then it is past due for one. You should replace the coolant every 2-3 years. Its one of the few liquids in the motor that should be replaced after a set amount of time not milage. It also wouldn’t hurt to rent a pressure tester from your local auto parts store and pressure testing the cooling system to make sure it isn’t leaking. If you are smelling coolant in the cab then you are leaking coolant somewhere, which means the cooling system can’t get up to proper pressure which lowers the boiling point compared to a pressurized system.
Good luck...
05-04-2015, 05:34 PM
#7
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: canada
Posts: 22
so i did a koer test and the codes i got were
327-dpfe or evp circuit below minimum voltage of 0.2 volts( no clue what that means?)
412-cannot control rpm during koer high rpm check
116- ect out of self test range 0.3 to 3.7 volts
and my cylinder balance teast was 90 which is all good.
please help me understand codes thanks.
327-dpfe or evp circuit below minimum voltage of 0.2 volts( no clue what that means?)
412-cannot control rpm during koer high rpm check
116- ect out of self test range 0.3 to 3.7 volts
and my cylinder balance teast was 90 which is all good.
please help me understand codes thanks.
05-05-2015, 08:52 AM
#8
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 5,061
Sorry I can't help you on the SN codes, but Google can.
My question is you stated the MAF is clean, but did you just look at the sensor elements and see there was nothing that looked dirty ?
Those wire elements need to be really really spotless to give accurate readings. A thin layer of oil from an aftermarket air filter will screw them up and mess with your idle. They make special spray cleaners for these MAF sensors and I'd suggest that first. If you did this already, congrats.
My question is you stated the MAF is clean, but did you just look at the sensor elements and see there was nothing that looked dirty ?
Those wire elements need to be really really spotless to give accurate readings. A thin layer of oil from an aftermarket air filter will screw them up and mess with your idle. They make special spray cleaners for these MAF sensors and I'd suggest that first. If you did this already, congrats.
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