Manual steering question
06-15-2015, 06:20 AM
#1
3rd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Florida
Posts: 632
Manual steering question
Hey guys, I've been pondering about converting to manual steering for a while now. The reason being is because of how much power that damn pump takes and I've had my car shut off on me a few times and it's very difficult to get it to turn when that happens. I have a buddy who has a Flamming River 20:1 rack and shaft he will sell me for 200, but my main question is... what the hell do I do with the old power steering pump once I swap? I keep trying to find pictures or information, but everybody seems to skip that detail. I am keeping my a/c, so I'm not sure how to go about that...
06-15-2015, 06:25 AM
#2
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: NC
Posts: 2,166
Might just have to make a standoff for where the pump would go to hold the large a/c bracket. As far as the belt routing just keep it stock and go from the compressor to the crank and "bypass" the now gone power steering pump.
06-15-2015, 06:47 AM
#3
3rd Gear Member
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Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Florida
Posts: 632
Yeah I know how to route the belt provided that the a/c compressor stays in the exact same location. I just was not sure if I leave the power steering bracket and such on, and use a pulley puller to take out the pump? I would think that could be done since you're not changing anything besides bypassing the line and just taking out the pump it self. Every picture I pull up they also have the a/c deleted which I would not.
06-15-2015, 04:33 PM
#4
Yukon Cornelius
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: deep in the heart of dixie GEORGIA
Posts: 11,808
i think i paid less than 200$ for my flaming river rack off ebay when i converted my fox...as for the pump i actually never removed it i planned on it but never got around to it lol i wanna say i left a little fluid in it and hooked the lines together
06-16-2015, 05:53 AM
#5
3rd Gear Member
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Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Florida
Posts: 632
Well I'm on the fence about it. I have 255/40R17's on the front and I'm not planning on changing that setup. I'm wondering how much of a pain it is going to be when I'm not moving or trying to do a U-turn.
06-17-2015, 12:28 PM
#6
**** can the pump and lines. It's just dead weight at this point. You'll also have to get rid of the brake booster. More dead weight and it frees up room under the hood. You might want to get a different brake pedel that offers more mechanical leverage. I didn't and I'm not having an issue but a lot of people do. Finally just short route a new shorter serpentine belt.
06-19-2015, 11:41 AM
#9
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Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Florida
Posts: 632
Although I respect your input greatly, I'm not touching the brakes. I have an SN95 Cobra brake upgrade with all MM hard and stainless steel lines with a 93 Cobra booster and master cylinder. She stops on a dime and locks up my Nitto 555's that are 255/40R17's. I'm good. lol
06-20-2015, 09:35 AM
#10
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: NC
Posts: 2,166
Yeah definitely want power brakes. I took mine out to put in manual brakes with a balance bar pedal assembly and it came out before I ever drove the car. Thing was so hard to push the pedal I put the stock stuff back on and upgraded the master to work with the rear disc brakes.