wgreenlee4

Okay I'm tired of wondering about this. There are dozens of suggestions online that recommend using SAE 30 for initial engine break in but I can't find any that say why! If all goes well I'll be firing up my rebuilt 302 for its break in. Right now there is Valvoline SAE 30 in it. It's going to be in the 50's this weekend and at these temps this oil is like molasses if you put it in the fridge!

I tried priming my engine with a drill on the oil pump in the cold but it quickly overheated my little dewalt corded drill. Only ran it for about a minute before it slowed way down and a nice puff of smoke came out. It ran enough that the stock oil pressure sender went from open circuit to high resistance circuit (had my ohm meter on it, but didn't actually have oil pressure gauge). I also saw just a little bit of oil come through the pushrods. The engine was assembled with a decent amount of assembly lube so I assume it is having some trouble pushing past that thick stuff.

The engine is in the car now. My current plan is to let a space heater sit under the oil pan for a little bit before I try and turn it over. I also will let it crank some on just the starter to get more oil moving.

Does anyone just suggest using conventional non-additive 5w30 for break in instead?

User 92421

use conventional 5w30, add zddp . as long as you used assembly lube this setup should do fine for most pushrod motors

User 92421

maybe 10w-30, depends how loose you built it

wgreenlee4

Not really sure how to answer that. It's a roller motor with new camshaft and lifters. It's the original crankshaft/rods/pistons. The motor as all new bearings throughout and new rings. All original parts were within factory clearances.

User 92421

nvm the internet cannot contain all the data. go to bobistheoilguy.com

wgreenlee4

I think I need to make an account to do any real searching on there. I'll plan on it tonight. I'm really disappointed by the massively varying opinions on breaking in such a common engine. My service manual does not have any oil recommendations for break in either. It just has the procedure for breaking in the cam.

Most forums seem to say SAE 30 but have no reasoning behind it. I'm not necessarily disagreeing with what you're saying above.

ZDDP is also a really unofficially recommended. Most say eh well it can't hurt a roller motor might as well. Some say absolutely no point because it's not flat tappet. But this website says you should: http://www.onallcylinders.com/2015/0...ller-camshaft/

Even if I were to use ZDDP, I don't know how much I would use for my roller. Hopefully bobstheoilguy will have some answers.

Urambo Tauro

Bobistheoilguy is a great resource. If they can't narrow it down for you, it may not matter. But please let us know what you find out. I've been curious about this topic too.

Boss_Hotrod

Broke mine in with plain jane Castrol GTX 10W-30. Only reason people say to use straight 30 weight is because they think the multi-viscosity stuff doesnt work as well as straight. As for the ZDDP I didnt put any in mine since it was a roller motor and the lifter doesnt have harsh engagement with the cam which could wipe the lobe like a flat tappet will. Thats why with flat tappets you have to run the motor in the harden the cam. ZDDP isnt needed for a roller but like others say it cant hurt it so its up to you if you want to put it in. I would suggest you get motor up to temp and run it for a while then change oil after a few heat cycles to clear out any assembly grease/lube and small metal particles from initial start. After that look to change it again at about 500-1000 miles. Just remember oil is cheap compared to a new motor.

rmodel65

the W stands for winter not weight

Coosawjack

You don't have to "Break In" a roller camshaft so just start it and run it like you're gonna drive it!!

Rings should seat pretty quick but load and unload it changing speeds frequently the first hour or so.....then let 'er rip!!

Ya might want to change the oil and filter after 100 miles to see how it looks!!