yurizx6r

Got yah. These responses were not what I expected, but certainly appreciate them. I guess I'll have to really find a place to practice more to figure out the limitations of the new power I have while I'm waiting on Nitto to come out with the G2s in the 255/40R17's. I'm too nervous to cut the lips of the fenders, and rolling them is out of the question. The picture should show you why (bought the car with that gouge in it).

Boss_Hotrod

Ive got one on my car. I also have the torque arm setup so I cant speak on how it helps with the stock 4 link setup. I will say with my setup though if the frame bracket isnt good and tight youll get noise. I messed up installing mine and just recently went back and put in some big solid spacers in the frame rails to put the bolts in. That eliminated most of my noise.

As for the spinning and fish tailing, the torque arm setup plus panhard bar keep the car failing straight. Kinda cool feeling having a car spinning tires while going fairly straight. Its not perfect but whole lot better than the Mustang Week idiots. Plus the car doesnt squat, it lifts up and takes off.

Just for the record. Im running a 331 stroker with 350 wheel hp on a weighted Mustang dyno without being properly tuned (timing was off). Estimate it closer to 400 since its comparable to the Boss at 420 wheel hp.

yurizx6r

@Boss Hotrod: That's cool. I'm probably going to eventually put it on either way just because.... race car. lol But, I wanted to figure out this underline issue first. My camshaft calls for a MINIMUM of 3.55 gears, and I'm nervous with it in 2nd with the 3.08's, so I'm like.... nah. lol

I didn't want to sound like a typical douchebag saying outrageous hp numbers without the dyno sheet to back it up. I get tired of those guys saying "yeah, it's got a CAI, 75mm TB, and a park bench spoiler, so I estimate it at 350hp to the ground." lol It's a 331 stroker with AFR 185cc heads, Trick Flow intake, CAI, 70mm TB, all the other supporting mods (Ignition box, injectors, etc) to support it, and a Comp Camps stage 4 camshaft with a custom tune from a local highly recommended tuner. Could be more, could be less, but I'd rather take the knee than look like a douche. lol

proeagles

Completely lost sight of the fact your car was a Fox body with triangulated 4 link suspension. Panhard bar complete waste of time.

mjr46

I've installed a few mm panhard bars and even have one on my 85, I did it to keep the axle inline with the body as I have fat tires on the rear and when I'd hit it hard in corners it's sway and the tires would rub the inner wells, the panhard bar fixed that issue and no noise, car felt more solid after install

MB88LX

I have MM panhard bar on mine, does not effect ride. As mentioned, its purpose is to keep rear axle from side movement, helps prevent snap oversteer from rear steer due to design of rear suspension. Should always keep rubber bushings in upper arms as stiffer types will make condition worse. See MM website with info on ph bar and rear suspension.
No offense but do both wheels spin? Clutches in LSD okay?

yurizx6r

Both wheels are spinning. I just verified it a few days ago.

Waferboy

So I have the MM panhard and torque arm. My upper control arms are removed and I put in UPR lower control arm. The engine is effectively stock and I've put in a Stifflers FIT system. I've only owned 3 cars, all Fox bodies (82 Capri, 88 GT, 93 LX) and this car in my opinion handles great. It's not squirrelly on launch and I'm really comfortable throwing it into just about any corner at high speed.

Added noise has never been an issue, only some squeaking from the poly lower control arm bushing, but nothing of note from the panhard or torque arm. I will say that with all the upgrades if I run at a low rpm (like 5th at 50mph) the car does vibrate and get loud in the cabin. But I believe this has more to do with the Stifflers system than anything else. The car is so much more rigid than it ever was. If nothing else, the more you add to reduce flex your car will have far fewer squeaks and creaks. My kids 93LX (only 228 difference in our VIN's) with all engine upgrades is much more squirrels than mine. My car was much more "wild" before the upgrades.

All in all, I would go for the MM upgrades, the stock suspension is weak and has plenty of room for improvement. Do note that a MM torque arm does have versions based on engine HP.

Good luck!

Waferboy

yurizx6r

After REALLY looking at my setup, I’ve come to the conclusion that it would look like complete crap if I cut the fenders unless I had Chip Foose do it. My hand isn’t that steady, I don’t trust anybody to work on my car, and I’m not going to redo this paint job. Both tires are spinning when I do a burnout, so my only options are to upgrade to the Nitto 555 G2’s and stick with the same tire size (255/40R17), practice more with my car, and most likely I’ll just put the bar on there anyways because #RaceCar. Even if it’s a hot dog down a hallway difference for launching straight, I’ll take it. At least when I take sharp turns it will keep the car more planted which will complement my front suspension. Between all those things I think I’ll be better off, and if I want true grip for the track and such, I’ll just buy an extra set of rims with some drag radials on there. I think that’s my best bet. Besides, I don’t think there will be THAT much difference between a 255 and 275 to fix my problem.

MB88LX

I like the 3.08 rear in my car, just occasionally go to drag strip for fun. With my mods it still did a 13.98 with 225 all season tires. I set up car for road course track days, lowering springs with matching shocks and panhard bar greatly improved handling. Also installed weld in frame stiffeners are strut tower brace. Do some autocross and some HPDE to work on your driving skills. Short video at road course.