up_yours_7

Buck Sergeant

up_yours_7,if this car is OEM, the carburetor is probably a HOLLY 4180C. It is far from the HOLLY'S we are now familiar with. I strongly advise you to go to this link before doing anything else: http://www.hotrod.com/articles/3-yea...0c-carburetor/. Also, go to your local car wash and power clean everything, ie. undercarriage,rear, tranny etc. And give that engine a good cleaning, cover the distributor, coil, carburetor and regulator.
If you buy the ride then change all filters and fluids. If I forgot anything someone else will fill you in. Doesn't look bad for the wear.

up_yours_7

proeagles

The carb is easier to deal with but in the long run, switching over to electronic ignition and efi is the way to go for drive-ability and fuel economy. Although rough looking the car seems to be fairly original and not beat up hot rod wise. This is one of those great project cars that you can sink a ton of money in, gets lots of enjoyment, and absolutely no return on investment. My kind of car! You have to ask yourself, what do you want to do with the car? Daily driver? Toy? If it is a daily driver, follow Buck Sergeant's advice. If you want to go down the rabbit hole, he'll have some great advice as well.

up_yours_7

proeagles

I'd go for the second one, seems in great shape with some good mods already.

rmodel65

looks really solid id show up with 1500$ and take it home

wbrockstar

Im not familiar with the 4 eyed Foxbodys,when it comes to my next comment,so it may/may not be an issue with this particular year model.The issue Im referring to is rust in the strut tower/unibody area.86-93 Foxbodys are prone to this issue,if the car was neglected or driven during certain weather conditions when salt is used on the road for ice and snow.If this is also common on the older Foxbodys too,do a thorough visual inspection in that area of the engine compartment.Body repair panels are available specifically for this problem, but is it something youre willing and experienced to do and if not,do you have the funds to pay an expert for the repair? ?
If you do aquire the car,weld-in subframe connectors would be the first modification
I do for the simple fact that ,T top & convertible Foxbodys lack all/part of their roof plus the lack of support under the floorpans/seat area due to a unibody.Subframe connectors will tie the front & rear unibody together plus reinforce the floorpans, if you buy a set that has the crossbar which connects to the seat rail mounting bolts under the car.Kenny Brown sells a nice kit which can be upgraded with additional parts.

http://store.kennybrown.com/product/chassis-support/super-subs-subframe-connectors-1979-2004-mustang-and-cobra

Buck Sergeant

wbrockstar, my 1987 foxbody was purchased last year and did in fact have rust issues concerning the front strut towers. I knew a 331 stroker, on juice, was going to be the power for this project and upgraded all suspension, from LMR, front and rear, to handle the torque. My point is that proeagles is correct. Although I build very competitive vehicles, the vintage Mustangs suspension does need some mechaging, especially in the rear. Heck, the first thing I did with my 2014 Mustang GT was to install BMR subframe connectors, from American Muscle. Go to Late Model Restoration (LMR) and just browse around their website for your cars year, just to get a idea of the upgrades available, for your ride. When you see a upgrade, go to your car and see if it is needed. Not everything will have to be replaced. But remember, the more power you are putting to the rear wheels, the more upgrades/money will have to be expended.