Clutch Problem
#1
Clutch Problem
I've got an 86 Mustang with a supercharged 347 and a SPEC stage 2 clutch, that was installed about 1,000 miles ago.
It has a McCleod bellhousing and last night I noticed the clutch slipping badly. The clutch fork isn't moving freely and is all the way up against the bellhousing opening towards the back of the car. I literally can't move it back further to allow the clutch to engage lower. It has a adjustable clutch quadrant, but if I recall correctly, if it's screwed all the way "in", it wouldn't bring the engage point lower. I don't think it can get screwed in anymore at the firewall.
I literally just got the car running again and am losing my mind with this thing and am hoping it can be something I can fix without having the trans dropped.
Any ideas? I can take a pick of what the clutch fork looks like/position in relation to the bellhousing, if that would help.
It slipped a little when I had the clutch installed, but after I backed the nut on the clutch fork out a little, it fixed it. Now I don't have any room to "back it out" further.
It has a McCleod bellhousing and last night I noticed the clutch slipping badly. The clutch fork isn't moving freely and is all the way up against the bellhousing opening towards the back of the car. I literally can't move it back further to allow the clutch to engage lower. It has a adjustable clutch quadrant, but if I recall correctly, if it's screwed all the way "in", it wouldn't bring the engage point lower. I don't think it can get screwed in anymore at the firewall.
I literally just got the car running again and am losing my mind with this thing and am hoping it can be something I can fix without having the trans dropped.
Any ideas? I can take a pick of what the clutch fork looks like/position in relation to the bellhousing, if that would help.
It slipped a little when I had the clutch installed, but after I backed the nut on the clutch fork out a little, it fixed it. Now I don't have any room to "back it out" further.
#3
As suggested,check the fork first to make sure it hasn't slipped off the pivot ball,screwed into the bellhousing.
Its also possible the nut came loose on the pivot ball,allowing it to move in or out.
The fork also has those two tabs attached to it that helps hold the throwout bearing.
Make sure you've got the correct cable type for the style of quadrant you're using.
Some quadrants with 1 hook use a non adj cable while others use an adj cable.
Quadrants with 2-3 hooks can use a adj & non adj cable.
(Single Hook: Adj)
BBK
FRPP
PRO 5.0
(Single Hook: Non-Adj)
Maximum Motorsports
Fiore
(Double-Triple Hook: Adj & Non Adj)
UPR
Steeda
An adjustable cable will always cause a heavier pedal than an oem cable.
If your quadrant calls for a non adjustable cable, buy the genuine oem Ford cable,not an aftermarket one.
Its also possible the nut came loose on the pivot ball,allowing it to move in or out.
The fork also has those two tabs attached to it that helps hold the throwout bearing.
Make sure you've got the correct cable type for the style of quadrant you're using.
Some quadrants with 1 hook use a non adj cable while others use an adj cable.
Quadrants with 2-3 hooks can use a adj & non adj cable.
(Single Hook: Adj)
BBK
FRPP
PRO 5.0
(Single Hook: Non-Adj)
Maximum Motorsports
Fiore
(Double-Triple Hook: Adj & Non Adj)
UPR
Steeda
An adjustable cable will always cause a heavier pedal than an oem cable.
If your quadrant calls for a non adjustable cable, buy the genuine oem Ford cable,not an aftermarket one.
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