wbrockstar

Heres a link that details all of the strategy modes for all running conditions. It explains all modes in which the iac valve is opened.

http://web.archive.org/web/20131229164723/http://oldfuelinjection.com/?p=64

Stearperson

Here is the latest:
New ECT sensor installed. Re installed the original ignition switch after tightening the tabs that were loose.
Ran diagnostic tests on the IAC valve and all values are spot on. Valve is also clean on the inside and looks good.
All engine and EEC grounds have been removed cleaned re attached and tested with the voltmeter.
This is a 5 speed car with no cruise control.
There is no improvement to the original post ailments at all.
Any new ideas?
Brock thanks for the Fuel Injection info and all the diagnostic info.
Stearperson

Buck Sergeant

Stearperson, just a thought. Intermittent faults in ignition modules can also cause an engine to suddenly stop running, and are often heat-related. When the module overheats, it quits working — but starts working again after it cools down (say 15 to 30 minutes later). When a bad module is responsible for an intermittent stalling problem, the engine will usually cold start just fine and run OK for short distances, but stalls after driving more than a few miles or when driving at highway speeds (especially during hot weather). It’s as if somebody suddenly turned off the ignition. Ignition modules produce internal heat and require a good heat sink to prevent them from overheating. Modules that are mounted in or on distributors or the engine often require a layer of dielectric grease underneath to conduct heat away from the electronics. If somebody replaced the module and forgot to apply the grease, it may cause the module to run too hot and shut down. Also, how long will the engine run after you restart it? Also, if your engine has a "crank trigger" the same problem will occur. I hope you find the problem before I run out of ideas.

Stearperson

Buck Sergeant

Stearperson, might be fuel pump, might be bad relay, might be crank or cam position sensor, might be bad ignition switch... you might have to take it to a shop to get a definitive answer. There are too many possible causes for your symptom to be diagnosed without an actual diagnostic process.

Stearperson

A new fuel pump solved the problem.
Car now starts quickly, Idles smooth with no surging and generally runs like new.
Not bad for a 230,000 mile car that I bought 31 years ago.
I was thrown by the fact that I installed a new fuel pump about 5 years ago.
Guess it was not of the same quality as the OEM one that lasted 25 years.

Buck Sergeant

Stearperson, Success! I am glad your issue has been resolved. Good team work is always a formula for success. Thanks for posting the solution.