MustangMomma

I purchased a 92 mustang 5.0 a few weeks back and she drove like a dream, since then she started making this pop, pop, pop noise under the hood but ONLY when she is actually being driven. She does not make this noise at idle nor if I just sit in my driveway and give it gas. I checked the plugs, wires, distributor, cleaned the air filter, cleaned throttle body, replaced msd as it was not functioning properly. I am literally at a loss as to what is going on with this car and before I take it to some "pro" that will charge me 150.00 per hour for labor thought I would come here first and see if anyone else had this problem.

wbrockstar

Check for vacuum leaks first and clean the maf sensor,then run the code tests using a jumper wire.Use the following link to check for any codes.
http://sbftech.com/index.php/topic,2471.0.html
Heres the list of code definitions.When youre counting the flashes,yours will be three digit codes.Example: two flashes-pause-four flashes-pause-six flashes-pause= 246
http://sbftech.com/index.php/topic,849.0.html

(Clean MAF Sensor)
As a quick test,disconnect the wiring harness from the MAF sensor then see if the problems disappear.If they do,the sensor is dirty or defective.If dirty,remove the electronic sensor from the maf meter and clean it with CRC MAF cleaner.Be careful to not touch the tiny heated wires with anything but the spray.
When you said you cleaned the air filter,is it a k&n filter or similiar type that gets cleaned and then sprayed with red oil?? If so,that oil can get on these wires and cause erratic driveability issues.

(Test PIP Sensor & TFI)
The pip sensor inside the distributor is the leading cause of your issue.If youve got a multimeter,you can run tests on the tfi module & pip sensor using the following link.
http://easyautodiagnostics.com/ford/...module-tests-1

(Check EGR Valve) Source: Fastgt94 @ Corral)
Get a length of clean vacuum line and run it to the EGR vac connection (unhook the existing plastic line from the egr valve)
With the engine running, suck on the end of the line. The idle should get rough / stall.
When you notice it getting rough / stalling, stop sucking.
If the idle recovers (almost immediately), your EGR is functioning properly and isn't "sticking" open / closed.
If you notice no change in idle, it won't recover once it gets rough, or it doesn't recover within a few seconds, then your EGR needs to be cleaned / replaced.