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5.0L (1979-1995) MustangTechnical discussions on 5.0 Liter Mustangs within. This does not include the 5.0 from the 2011 Mustang GT. That information is in the 2005-1011 section.
Ive personally never tried running two gaskets on each header,but I guess its worth a try.Copper gaskets work good too since they crush easier than a regular gasket & they can also be re-used.
Its always made me wonder why oem parts never seem to cause any issues while most aftermarket parts do.Example: the oem exhaust manifolds have a flange for each runner and they never require you to pry on a runner to get the bolt holes to line up,they never leak & the bolts never come loose.
Aftermarket headers,with individual flanges or one long flange,oftentimes require you to pry them in place for hole alignment and retighten the bolts after a few heat cycles,once theyve been installed/removed/ reinstalled a few times.Future bolt tightening is usually required too after they've been reinstalled and went through a few heat cycles.You can also buy locking header bolts too.You install the bolt and torque it to spec,then push a ice cream cone shaped locking tab (with a hex shaped hole in it) over the bolt then push a clip over the bolt to keep the tab secure.When the bolt tries to loosen and the triangle shaped portion hits the runner,it'll prevent the bolt from turning any
more.
lol that's always pissed me off, I hate pulling the headers off my car it's a complete bitch to get them back on. I've had a few of the bolts work their way right out on me as well.....I guess it goes with the territory though
There are actually quite a few different styles of locking header bolts,but the 3 shown below are probably the most well known and used/liked.The first one shown is the style I mentioned in my post.I wanted to show what it looks like rather than just leaving my
" it looks like an ice cream cone with a hex shaped hole in it " corny description of it.The second style shown has a different shaped tab,but is the same otherwise.The third style doesn't use a tab or locking clip at all.The center of the bolt is drilled/tapped,to accept a screw-in stud,& the bolt shaft is scored.Once you install/torque the bolt to spec,you screw the stud in place until its tight and this expands the bolt shaft so it can't back out.
If the headers are currently connected to the hpipe and you're gonna leave them that way when you bolt the headers to the cylinder heads (whether you leave the collector nuts tight or loosen them) the hpipe usually puts rearward tension on the headers.If this is the case in your car,start tightening the header bolts from the rear forward to help reduce any chances of leaks.
10-10-2018, 11:43 AM
