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5.0L (1979-1995) Mustang Technical discussions on 5.0 Liter Mustangs within. This does not include the 5.0 from the 2011 Mustang GT. That information is in the 2005-1011 section.

92 spins Over but Won't Start

Old 02-26-2019, 08:33 PM
  #11  
john89gt
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Thanks wbrockstar! Good information right there. Looks like I may have had the signal return jumped to the self test input and not jumped from the self test input to self test output(maybe the reason for no flash). I will try that tomorrow or run to negative battery cable if that does work. I did unplug the fuel pump relay and the fuel did stop running. So then I installed a brand new relay and the fuel pump didnít run at all. When the fuel pump is running constantly and after building fuel pressure, I can hear the hissing sound at the #1 cylinder injector. I havenít heard or saw any fuel leaks/hissing at the regulator. The hissing noise seems to be concentrated at the #1 cylinder injector.
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Old 02-26-2019, 09:10 PM
  #12  
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Sorry wbrockstar. After reading you post again, I would say that the jumper earlier today, I ran was from the signal return to the STI (thought I had it wrong). I walked out to the garage and run the jumper straight to the negative cable on the battery then to the STI.... still no cel flash at all. The cel is just staying lite constantly with the KOEO.
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Old 02-26-2019, 09:31 PM
  #13  
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A lot of obd2 cars won't let the test run if a fuse is blown somewhere. I don't believe the eeciv does that though.

What did you do on the relays? Did you pull the cover off the old one or try energizing the new one?
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Old 02-26-2019, 09:37 PM
  #14  
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I installed the new fuel pump relay, but after I installed the relay the fuel pump did not run.
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Old 02-27-2019, 12:24 AM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by john89gt View Post
Sorry wbrockstar. After reading you post again, I would say that the jumper earlier today, I ran was from the signal return to the STI (thought I had it wrong). I walked out to the garage and run the jumper straight to the negative cable on the battery then to the STI.... still no cel flash at all. The cel is just staying lite constantly with the KOEO.
Tap on the relay & its harness plug with a screwdriver handle to see if the relay goes from working to not working.The wires can get loose or pull out of the plug sometimes causing the relay/pump to work in a intermittent manor.You can try it with the old relay too.
Plug the old relay back in so the pump will run constantly again.Turn the key on to make sure the pump is still running constantly.If it is,turn the key off,disconnect the negative battery cable,disconnect the harness from the ecu,reconnect the battery cable then turn the key back on.Is the pump still running constantly??If no,the ecu needs to be inspected.If yes,disconnect the fuel pump relay.Is it running now??If no,the relay or its wiring harness pigtail is the issue.

Make 100% sure you're using the STI terminal because some mistake the hood light terminal for the STI terminal,since they look very similar.According to the 92-93 wiring diagram,the STI terminal wire should be white/pink in color.Test the STI & STO terminal wires from the diagnostic port to the ecu.The ecu harness should still be disconnected,so test the STI wire by touching meter leads to the STI terminal and pin 48 at the ecu harness plug.The meter should read 1.5 ohms or less.Now test the STO wire by touching meter leads to the STO terminal and pin 17 at the ecu harness plug.The meter should read 1.5 ohms or less.If the wires above pass the test,pull the ecu out and remove its panels so you can inspect it for bad capacitors & a burnt signal return trace.

Last edited by wbrockstar; 02-27-2019 at 12:40 AM.
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Old 02-27-2019, 06:13 PM
  #16  
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Wbrockstar/Trimdrip-Update: Installed new fuel pump relay. Fuel pump didnít work, so I tried the screwdriver tap and that got the fuel pump running continuous again. Remove battery cable and unplugged EC... reinstalled battery cable-fuel pump didnít work. At this point, I pulled the ECU and removed cover. Looked and looked finally saw that one of the blue capacitors looked swollen. I hope this may be the problem. wbrockstar I check the ohms for the wires and only could get0.5 ohms on each wire. The ends STO looked a killer corroded.


Question 1-can a computer store fix these capacitors or is it a speciality item?

Question 2-of the ECU has to be sent off, who should I send it to?

[img]blob:https://mustangforums.com/a06b0d6c-64a8-4664-8548-292cbd1ff77f[/img]
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Old 02-27-2019, 06:50 PM
  #17  
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If you can solder, you can fix it yourself. Here is a thread related to your issue. https://forums.corral.net/forums/eec...-repair-2.html
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Old 02-27-2019, 06:51 PM
  #18  
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it can be salvaged as long as the board is not burnt too bad
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Old 02-27-2019, 07:35 PM
  #19  
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Trimdrip- Thanks for the article. I hope that I donít have to do any repairs. I believe my friend has one that may be good. Iíve read a few post about the ECUís about which is which. Everyone says that the A9M is for an auto trans but my car came factory with a
5 spd and has the A9M. Not that it matters but maybe Ford was just using what they had.
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Old 02-27-2019, 10:25 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by john89gt View Post
Trimdrip- Thanks for the article. I hope that I donít have to do any repairs. I believe my friend has one that may be good. Iíve read a few post about the ECUís about which is which. Everyone says that the A9M is for an auto trans but my car came factory with a
5 spd and has the A9M. Not that it matters but maybe Ford was just using what they had.
According to the following link, the A3M=manual and the A9M=auto

http://web.archive.org/web/201312291...tion.com/?p=17
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