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5.0L (1979-1995) Mustang Technical discussions on 5.0 Liter Mustangs within. This does not include the 5.0 from the 2011 Mustang GT. That information is in the 2005-1011 section.

1992 Cooling/Coolant Issue

Old 05-04-2019, 08:02 AM
  #11  
TrimDrip
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60 miles continuous driving? how is the fan clutch doing?
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Old 05-06-2019, 07:16 AM
  #12  
john89gt
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Originally Posted by TrimDrip View Post
60 miles continuous driving? how is the fan clutch doing?
Yes, 60 miles of continuous driving. The fan seems to be fine. I drove the car some more on Saturday and the cooling system did fine. I have another radiator, so I may end up replacing the radiator. I don't think the car/cooling system is 100% yet, but it the seems to be getting better.
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Old 05-06-2019, 07:44 AM
  #13  
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the way i test a fan clutch is by letting the car get up to temp, then trying to stop it with my hand.

and yeah, i never had luck with an oem radiator. although, i do think they are better than the aluminum ones that don't increase the cooling capacity.

Last edited by TrimDrip; 05-06-2019 at 07:46 AM.
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Old 05-06-2019, 08:07 AM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by TrimDrip View Post
the way i test a fan clutch is by letting the car get up to temp, then trying to stop it with my hand.

and yeah, i never had luck with an oem radiator. although, i do think they are better than the aluminum ones that don't increase the cooling capacity.
Lol.......you stick your hand in the fan while the motor is running?-I live by "Zero Harm," so not an option for me. I do however, have a new clutch fan that was on another Mustang of mine. I could try the clutch fan and see if that helps.
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Old 05-06-2019, 01:31 PM
  #15  
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that is the way i learned to check it a long time ago. The only ones i have put my hand on, have been bad though.

here you go, this guy says you can use a magazine.


Last edited by TrimDrip; 05-06-2019 at 01:34 PM.
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Old 05-07-2019, 07:51 AM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by TrimDrip View Post
that is the way i learned to check it a long time ago. The only ones i have put my hand on, have been bad though.

here you go, this guy says you can use a magazine.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cOXcrbQRDWU
Trimdrip-I didn't get time yesterday to check the clutch fan, but maybe I can get to it today.
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Old 05-07-2019, 08:47 AM
  #17  
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yeah, i mean really, you should just be able to put your hand over the engine and feel the air moving pretty heavily. if it looks like the one in the video, you will be able to stop it easily.

look for grease on the clutch too. that is a sign it is getting time to replace.
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Old 05-08-2019, 07:30 AM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by TrimDrip View Post
yeah, i mean really, you should just be able to put your hand over the engine and feel the air moving pretty heavily. if it looks like the one in the video, you will be able to stop it easily.

look for grease on the clutch too. that is a sign it is getting time to replace.
I checked the clutch fan yesterday. I used some cardboard rolled up but the fan kept turning. I couldn't get it to stop, so I'm assuming the clutch fan is OK.
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Old 05-13-2019, 03:35 PM
  #19  
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A leaking lower intake gasket will also cause an internal coolant leak too,but it normally wont cause an overheating issue like a blown head gasket does,unless the coolant level gets really low,of course.Oil on the dipstick that appears like a milkshake is usually the main symptom of an intake gasket leak.If this was occurring though,you'd already be aware of it by now due to the miles youve put on it.The radiator cap is usually the biggest cause of the reservoir boiling coolant symptom.If the cap is bad,the engine will overheat at much lower temps than normal and that will cause coolant to boil over into the reservoir bottle.Once the engine cools back down,the radiator cap is supposed to open again so that vacuum can pull the coolant from the reservoir bottle back into the radiator.If it boils/steams coolant out of the bottle vent hole because the radiator cap isnt opening to draw the coolant back into the radiator,thats also gonna cause the coolant level to be low in the radiator the next morning.So it sounds like the cap may have been your issue.
When the thermostat opens,the upper hose should get soft and you should see coolant visibly flowing steadily out of the radiator tubes and into the end tank,if you remove the cap.The thermostat is always installed with the spring/copper wax tube facing the intake.Wax is inside of that copper tube and once the coolant temp reaches the tstats temp rating,the wax inside of that tube softens enough that it allows the metal rod to retract,pulling the valve open to allow coolant to start flowing through the tstat.Once the cooler temp coolant that just left the radiator reaches the copper tube,the valve closes again.

Last edited by wbrockstar; 05-13-2019 at 03:47 PM.
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Old 05-15-2019, 07:09 AM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by wbrockstar View Post
A leaking lower intake gasket will also cause an internal coolant leak too,but it normally wont cause an overheating issue like a blown head gasket does,unless the coolant level gets really low,of course.Oil on the dipstick that appears like a milkshake is usually the main symptom of an intake gasket leak.If this was occurring though,you'd already be aware of it by now due to the miles youve put on it.The radiator cap is usually the biggest cause of the reservoir boiling coolant symptom.If the cap is bad,the engine will overheat at much lower temps than normal and that will cause coolant to boil over into the reservoir bottle.Once the engine cools back down,the radiator cap is supposed to open again so that vacuum can pull the coolant from the reservoir bottle back into the radiator.If it boils/steams coolant out of the bottle vent hole because the radiator cap isnt opening to draw the coolant back into the radiator,thats also gonna cause the coolant level to be low in the radiator the next morning.So it sounds like the cap may have been your issue.
When the thermostat opens,the upper hose should get soft and you should see coolant visibly flowing steadily out of the radiator tubes and into the end tank,if you remove the cap.The thermostat is always installed with the spring/copper wax tube facing the intake.Wax is inside of that copper tube and once the coolant temp reaches the tstats temp rating,the wax inside of that tube softens enough that it allows the metal rod to retract,pulling the valve open to allow coolant to start flowing through the tstat.Once the cooler temp coolant that just left the radiator reaches the copper tube,the valve closes again.

wbrockstar-No water in the oil. Oil looks clear. I've been out of town, so I haven't had much time lately to follow up on the car. Back home today, so I will pick up a new radiator cap and try that. I had an old cap, so I tried the cap last week. I think the rubber may be dry rotted, because the car did not boil over, but there was steam coming from the cap.
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