351w
#1
351w
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
hi,
these are the plans for my 351w buildup. it is a 1972 block with D0OE heads.
- machined .030" over
-edelbrock air-gap intake
-holley street avenger 770
-cam: duration @ .050 lift - 218/230
duration @ .006 lift - 297/307
intake - .458
exhaust - .483
lobe C/L - 110
overlap - 81
- stock bottom end, would i need to switch to anything better for a street set up, whats the highest it could safely rev? would a larger cam be better, or maybe 1.7 ratio roller rockers?
also what would you expect for power out of it?
sorry for all the questions.
thanks,
carl
hi,
these are the plans for my 351w buildup. it is a 1972 block with D0OE heads.
- machined .030" over
-edelbrock air-gap intake
-holley street avenger 770
-cam: duration @ .050 lift - 218/230
duration @ .006 lift - 297/307
intake - .458
exhaust - .483
lobe C/L - 110
overlap - 81
- stock bottom end, would i need to switch to anything better for a street set up, whats the highest it could safely rev? would a larger cam be better, or maybe 1.7 ratio roller rockers?
also what would you expect for power out of it?
sorry for all the questions.
thanks,
carl
#4
RE: 351w
hi,
thanks for the responses. first of all, the motor is going into my 67' coupe with manual trans. i plan on using it as a summer car and would like to be able to bring it to the strip occasionally. im still in the process of restoring the car right now and would like to collect the engine parts i need as i go. i just need help deciding on a good set up that will be streetable and still pretty fast.
1.) rotating assembly- so that i wont have any worries about engine failure, would i be better off going with a set of hypereutectic pistons (i wont be using FI or any other power adders, so forged seems liek it would be unneccesary) and forged connecting rods. also, would the stock crank be a weak point of the motor or is cast ok? would it be a bad choice to use a cast stroker crank to make it a 393? i was thinking something like this: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/351w-...QQcmdZViewItem ...
2.) what would you guys choose for a hydraulic flat tappet cam for a set up like this? i dont mind getting rid of the one i have now.
sorry again for all the questions,
carl
thanks for the responses. first of all, the motor is going into my 67' coupe with manual trans. i plan on using it as a summer car and would like to be able to bring it to the strip occasionally. im still in the process of restoring the car right now and would like to collect the engine parts i need as i go. i just need help deciding on a good set up that will be streetable and still pretty fast.
1.) rotating assembly- so that i wont have any worries about engine failure, would i be better off going with a set of hypereutectic pistons (i wont be using FI or any other power adders, so forged seems liek it would be unneccesary) and forged connecting rods. also, would the stock crank be a weak point of the motor or is cast ok? would it be a bad choice to use a cast stroker crank to make it a 393? i was thinking something like this: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/351w-...QQcmdZViewItem ...
2.) what would you guys choose for a hydraulic flat tappet cam for a set up like this? i dont mind getting rid of the one i have now.
sorry again for all the questions,
carl
#5
RE: 351w
i would go with forged or hypereutectic pistons for stock displacement. cast rods and crank should hold up well. a 393 would be a different story. i would go with forged rods and pistons, with a cast crank. for a cam, the one you have should be okay, but i would go with 1.7:1 rockers. to get some more lift out of it. if you do want to change, look at the summit PN# TFS-51402001. that should be a good grind for your application with stock 1.6 ratio rockers. if you go with the 393, the will still be too big. try to find one around 700. with the 351, you will definately need a smaller carb, like a 650.
#6
RE: 351w
thanks for the response,
i will try the cam that you suggested, if i hadnt installed the current cam yet, is it ok to use the lifters i bought with it? i will be going with a 700 cfm like you also said. and are there any pistons you would suggest? i was leaning towards keith black hypereutectics, that they claimed to be 30% strong than unheat treated hypereutectics. i plan on a port job, like you said, or just an aluminum set of heads further down the road.
thanks again,
carl
i will try the cam that you suggested, if i hadnt installed the current cam yet, is it ok to use the lifters i bought with it? i will be going with a 700 cfm like you also said. and are there any pistons you would suggest? i was leaning towards keith black hypereutectics, that they claimed to be 30% strong than unheat treated hypereutectics. i plan on a port job, like you said, or just an aluminum set of heads further down the road.
thanks again,
carl
#7
RE: 351w
check to see if it comes with lifters. it might. i have sealed power because they came in my rebuild kit, but keith black seems to be good. you will want to keep the rpms down until you either upgrade valve springs or get the new heads. i would suggest getting springs that can rev to 7k rpms. you can check my site to see what I did. I bought some 1.94 intake, 1.60 exhaust raceflo valves and cut my heads for. these, when ported a lot, will flow close to some aftermarket heads, but it costed much less. to do this you will need the valves cut bigger.
#8
RE: 351w
one more question Mkspeed, can i cut the heads for larger valves myself? ive got a dremel and also an air grinder. i think i would rather just port match the stock heads instead of an aluminum set for now. also what did you use for valve springs?
thanks again,
carl
thanks again,
carl
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