5.0L (1979-1995) Mustang Technical discussions on 5.0 Liter Mustangs within. This does not include the 5.0 from the 2011 Mustang GT. That information is in the 2005-1011 section.

DSS racing bad?

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Old 01-22-2006, 06:40 AM
  #11  
Magiarn71
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Default RE: DSS racing bad?

If you just want the kit, check out the Street fighter kits like someone said. I have been debating on going 347 or not, and I think I would just get one of the Eagle kits out of the Jeg's catalog....
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Old 01-22-2006, 06:59 AM
  #12  
Crazyfast50stang
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Default RE: DSS racing bad?

Read up on what the people were complaining about and take that into consideration. Check out the other companies. Dont go by price go by what you get for the price.
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Old 01-22-2006, 08:21 AM
  #13  
tchamber
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Default RE: DSS racing bad?

You could always buy the parts and assemble them yourself. I have an acquaintance who has a 347 who wants to sell it for $1500, and I might just buy it, but I will deffinately tear it apart and have it checked for tollerances. All those companies sell quality parts, but the only thing is that they might assemble them poorly, that's where you come in, have it checked, I think Vfast has said that before a few times.
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Old 01-22-2006, 11:16 AM
  #14  
randy78045
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Default RE: DSS racing bad?

I'm running a 408 stroker from DSS and love it. In fact, I purchased the entire long block from them. Everything fits and runs fine.

ORIGINAL: 91stang

i was considering DSS racing but not too long ago i read that it some people had problems with it. but i found this article from 5.0 mustang saying they used a 347 kit from them

http://www.50mustangandsuperfords.co...438/index.html


and i can't find another good company to get one from
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Old 01-22-2006, 01:25 PM
  #15  
TBird232ci
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Default RE: DSS racing bad?

generally, the people that complain are people who never broke it in, abuse the engine, or just do stupid sH*t to their cars, then blame it on someone else

"i bought a transmission from such and such shop, it blew up after i did 3 nuetral drops...its a total POS"
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Old 01-22-2006, 05:30 PM
  #16  
91stang
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Default RE: DSS racing bad?

ORIGINAL: TBird232ci

generally, the people that complain are people who never broke it in, abuse the engine, or just do stupid sH*t to their cars, then blame it on someone else

"i bought a transmission from such and such shop, it blew up after i did 3 nuetral drops...its a total POS"
when breaking it in, is there a way to do it? or just let it idle for a little bit or something?

also how would you break in heads/cam/intake?
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Old 01-22-2006, 07:37 PM
  #17  
TBird232ci
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Default RE: DSS racing bad?

breaking in a shortblock usually is along the lines of driving it around, varying RPM's, and being good to it for like 500 miles or so. If you do a google search on engine break ins, there is a lot of results and different ways to do it.

Heads/Cam/Intake dont need break in unless the cam is a flat tappet cam, rollers dont need break in, but coat the living hell out of them with assembly lube, so it doesnt run dry when you first start it
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Old 01-22-2006, 08:39 PM
  #18  
91stang
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Default RE: DSS racing bad?

sounds good... and oh yea

GO PANTHERS
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Old 01-22-2006, 10:54 PM
  #19  
tinman
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Default RE: DSS racing bad?

About 'break in' on new engine.
Whole thing here is about heat cylces.
Start engine, let it run til it reaches 150-160 degrees, shut it down and let it get dead cold.
Change oil/filter.
Do the same thing 3-4 times then progress to 180-190 and do the same thing.
Change oil/filter.
Only then drive the car and then only to about 4500 RPM for 5-6 times. Cool it down dead cold, change the oil/filter and you are ready.
This mat seem like a lot off warming/cooling and oil & filters but it's worked for me for 30+ plus years with my racecars........
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Old 01-23-2006, 03:50 AM
  #20  
91stang
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Default RE: DSS racing bad?

ORIGINAL: tinman

About 'break in' on new engine.
Whole thing here is about heat cylces.
Start engine, let it run til it reaches 150-160 degrees, shut it down and let it get dead cold.
Change oil/filter.
Do the same thing 3-4 times then progress to 180-190 and do the same thing.
Change oil/filter.
Only then drive the car and then only to about 4500 RPM for 5-6 times. Cool it down dead cold, change the oil/filter and you are ready.
This mat seem like a lot off warming/cooling and oil & filters but it's worked for me for 30+ plus years with my racecars........
that's a lot of oil

also, when driving what do i let my rpm's go down to after reaching ther 4500 mark?
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