lxragtop50

well i dont really understand this but i get tht the 93's didnt have forged internals so and the rest did. so i personally like 89-92 notches. those r pretty. 1993 Ford Mustang GT (auto) 8.0 16.1 1990 Ford Mustang LX 5.0 6.4 14.9 1992 Ford Mustang LX 5.0 6.2 14.8 1988 Ford Mustang GT 6.4 15.0 (MT Jan '88)


here are some times. ENJOY

HC_CrAzYHoRsE

those times make no sense at all

5.0coupe

something that is a Notch

Nobityeaho

87-88 has speed density (thumbs down if you want to do a lot of naturally aspirated mods), 90-93 is much easier to get the 140MPH speedometer, coupes are the lightest, airbags are heavy but youre getting a mustang, youll probably drive fast, if something goes wrong they could save your life...i have a hatchback and a convertible, both wiegh over 4,000lbs from the factory. For the love of christ get a manual, my gt was auto then converted to manual with basically stock motor, the difference between those transmissions was like the difference between night and day. Body style is basically personal preference, i loooove having a convertible, its cool as hell to drive, plus no blind spots at all

ekthrilla

your crazy. a vert hatch or notch doesnt weigh that much. sn95's weight 3800lbs

Nobityeaho

Yea im not crazy, SLIGHTLY mistaken if anything but not crazy. I based that weight on the factory sticker on the door. My 87 4 cylinder with manual windows has a Gross Vehicle Weight Rating of 3770lbs. I have read the sticker on my 91 GT convertible to adjust my performance meter, and im pretty sure it said like 4192lbs or something around that. That sounds about right because my 4 cylinder weighs 3770and has smaller/weaker/lighter: shocks, springs, trans, engine, rearend, front seats, brakes, and has manual windows and no airbag

87 4cylinder auto LX hatchback
[IMG]local://upfiles/27616/51F025FEDA1341EBAAA01FF353DA6CA5.jpg[/IMG]

bullypits01

I see the tag, but man thats hard to believe. I have a 83 myself, i wanna say its about 3200 before i started ripping things out of it that are absolutely not needed. Belive me there were things we had to look for in the manual to figure out what they were. It's a hatch which I dont like. I'm wanting the coupe body as well. I wanna go on a ledge here and say that they save you about 1 or 2 hundred pounds with a coupe. I do know that the later the model car you get the heavier; everything had be better reinforced, so more brackets, random braces and other things of that nature weigh nothing one peice at a time but you put them all together and they weigh something. not only that it makes it a bitch sometimes to work around braces or take them out and reinstall them. the good things about the later years are the brakes they came with. They are bigger and some styles started coming with all wheel disks(Cobras for ex.) Another thing to think about is the blocks when it comes to making power. Yea you can get the forged pistons and the desent factory rods and crank, but if you plan on making more than 475 horses and about that in ft/lbs. My neighborly engine builder, whom is a ford guy, will tell you to look for an aftermarket block like a sportsman 302, 302R, Man O' War, or Dart block, all of which seem to be a good foundation for power. The stock blocks just won't hold alot. Yea you'll hear people say they make alot of power with the stock block, but they don't tell you about the horror stories of their buddies' who did the same thing and came away with a cracked block when they installed their new supercharger, turbo, nitrous, heads and so forth.

Take good advise when given, get that good block before making 5 or 6 hundred horse power, no matter if its forced or naturally asperated. It'll be the best investment you make. He already tells me not to spray what I'm building which is a 306 with 185 afr's. I'm gonna have some fun with this motor for a while and in a year or two I'm gonna step on up to a 410 or a 418 with all forged internals and a good reinforced block (probably a Man O' War or Dart), and a set of 205 or 225 afr's with either laughing gas or a hair dryer.

My 83 is an LX. I pay about 350 to 400 a year with just liability, cause they will not give me anything else at the time. I bumped one of those 2003 Mustangs with an aftermarket ricer nose piece and it fell to the pavement. So my insurance looked at it as an accident. When I say bumped I'm not talking 5mph, I'm talking backing out of a parking place and catching the bottom egde of it with the edge of my All Terrains on my 93 Bronco F150. The lip of that ricer nose piece stuck out kinda far, reminded me of a shuvel-head catfish or a shark's nose.

90Mustangfan

Thats cross weight buddy...Thats what you car weighs with 4 people in the car full take of gas, basicly the total weight if you had everything to the max, max passengers, max fluids etc...I believe they account each person to weigh 150 150X4=600...3770-600=3170...You car weights 3170lbs w/ out you in it.

88BlueGT

I would go w/ a 89. And if you plan on doing mods make sure its not a 87-88 unless you want to wast your money doing a mass air conversion kit which is a pain in the a$$ and lots of money that you have to spend for no reason when you can get it for free if you go w/ 89+.

4eyedfreak

Alright back to the weight situation, Im confused. The door jam on my 83 says "3976" now i have looked it up and it was around 3100 or something.. its says the weight on the door jam because of a full load? wtf