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1.7 RRs

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Old 01-30-2006, 08:03 PM
  #1  
StangStang
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Default 1.7 RRs

Has anyone installed crane 1.7RRs, what did you do to install them?
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Old 01-30-2006, 09:22 PM
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Black Snake
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Default RE: 1.7 RRs

Stud mounted or Pedestal mounted?
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Old 01-30-2006, 09:31 PM
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I3atR!ce
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Default RE: 1.7 RRs

Here is the proper installation procedure --

To install pedestal mount rockers:

1) For each pair (int/exh) be sure you rotate the engine so the lifters are on the base circle of the cam - this is very important. When you install the rockers, both valves must remain closed. Neither lifter can be on any part of the cam lobe - they MUST be on the base circle.
2) Install the rocker and bolt it down to zero lash. Zero lash is reached just when you eliminate the gap between the pushrod and the rocker and the valve stem and the rocker. Tighten with one hand and 'rock' the rocker with the other hand. Just when you reach the point that you can't rock the rocker anymore you're at zero lash.
3) Now - put your torque wrench on it and tighten to 18-20 ft-lbs. while counting the number of turns it takes to reach that torque. It should occur between 1/4 turns and 1 turn. If it takes more than one turn, use a shim to raise the rocker. For each .030" shim you use, you'll reduce the number of turns to torque by about 1/4. If it takes less than 1/4 turn, or you have trouble reaching zero lash even with the bolt torqued all the way to 18-20, then you need longer pushrods.
4) If all goes well on the install, crank it up. If some make noise let the car warm up completely. Then (unfortunately) go back through the install procedure with the components warm. That will usually quiet them down.

Mine has 11 with no shims at all, 4 with one .030" shim, and one with 2 .030" shims. And I had to do the final install with it hot to get them quiet. That approach has them all hitting the required torque within 1/2 to 3/4 turns.

I have a Buddy Rawls custom cam with steeper than stock ramp rates, 1.7 roller rockers (pedestal Cobra type), and stock lifters. It runs just about as quiet as it did stock.
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Old 01-30-2006, 09:33 PM
  #4  
91hatchgt
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Default RE: 1.7 RRs

I have stud mounted rollers, they werent that hard, you can find the instructions on google, pretty simple just google it...
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Old 01-30-2006, 09:38 PM
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Black Snake
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Default RE: 1.7 RRs

Yea pesestals are easy the studs are the hard ones
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Old 01-30-2006, 09:47 PM
  #6  
91hatchgt
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Default RE: 1.7 RRs

I am sorry I meant that I had the stud mounted rollers, they were a little mroe complicated than the pedestals that I had on the old heads. I just went in the firing order, and when the exhaust began to open, you adjust the intake, screw it down with your fingers until there is no play in the rod, then turn it about 1/4 to 1 full turn... Then do the opposite for the exhaust valve, and repeat the process for the rest of the cylinders.
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Old 01-31-2006, 12:04 AM
  #7  
StangStang
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Default RE: 1.7 RRs


ORIGINAL: I3atR!ce

Here is the proper installation procedure --

To install pedestal mount rockers:

1) For each pair (int/exh) be sure you rotate the engine so the lifters are on the base circle of the cam - this is very important. When you install the rockers, both valves must remain closed. Neither lifter can be on any part of the cam lobe - they MUST be on the base circle.
2) Install the rocker and bolt it down to zero lash. Zero lash is reached just when you eliminate the gap between the pushrod and the rocker and the valve stem and the rocker. Tighten with one hand and 'rock' the rocker with the other hand. Just when you reach the point that you can't rock the rocker anymore you're at zero lash.
3) Now - put your torque wrench on it and tighten to 18-20 ft-lbs. while counting the number of turns it takes to reach that torque. It should occur between 1/4 turns and 1 turn. If it takes more than one turn, use a shim to raise the rocker. For each .030" shim you use, you'll reduce the number of turns to torque by about 1/4. If it takes less than 1/4 turn, or you have trouble reaching zero lash even with the bolt torqued all the way to 18-20, then you need longer pushrods.
4) If all goes well on the install, crank it up. If some make noise let the car warm up completely. Then (unfortunately) go back through the install procedure with the components warm. That will usually quiet them down.

Mine has 11 with no shims at all, 4 with one .030" shim, and one with 2 .030" shims. And I had to do the final install with it hot to get them quiet. That approach has them all hitting the required torque within 1/2 to 3/4 turns.

I have a Buddy Rawls custom cam with steeper than stock ramp rates, 1.7 roller rockers (pedestal Cobra type), and stock lifters. It runs just about as quiet as it did stock.
Ok here is what I did, I called up crane cam and dude told me that i needed to set to zero lash on base lobe of cam and scratch a mark on the pushrod, than torque to 18-20 ft-lbs and scratch the pushrod again and than measure the distance between scratches. If the scratches were to far apart you would have to shim it, so i did and the dude on the phone told me that if one is to far apart than the rest will be, so i shimmed all of them. is this correct? or do i need to redue it? I have been driving it like this for awhile. also what happends if you shim one that doesnt need to be shimmed, do you loose power? THanks
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Old 01-31-2006, 01:00 AM
  #8  
91hatchgt
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Default RE: 1.7 RRs

If you are running Stud mounted rockers (crane) you don't have to shim them, in fact you cannot. You are correct on the torque thing, sorry I forgot about that it's been about 6 months since I did mine..
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Old 01-31-2006, 09:30 AM
  #9  
StangStang
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Default RE: 1.7 RRs

i am running pedestal mount
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