Ormist

Alright, my heat isnt working and I thought that it may of been because of the thermostat a couple months ago. The reason I thought this is because in Chiton's owners manual it says:</P>


Make sure the thermostat is in the locked position dirring instalation</P>


On thermostats without lock ears (mine doesn have) you MUST make sure to potition the bleeder valve at 12" oclock. The Bleeder Valve is a little hole, on the pictur it shows it being a little more than half way to the edge from the center.</P>


On the termostat I just got there is no lock ears, no bleeder valve, and I can not lock or unluck the thermostat...</P>


What the hell is with this?!</P>

makarovboy

Chilton and Haynes sometimes make things a little more complicated than they need be. I just recently replaced mine and it had neither. Just put it in and go for it, it'll be fine.

If you're worried about a bleed hole, just drill a 1/16" hole in it and align it like it says, but it's not necessary.

vfast

and make it a 180...

Ormist

I hear people dispute between 160 and 180... but never realy heard whats the difference, and what about a 195???</P>

makarovboy

After reading your post again, is it your heater that's not working? The tstat would show up in the form of overheating or blowing less hot air (which mine does, the wife hates it) if you install a 160* or 180* tstat if operating in normal temp ranges.

You may want to look into a clogged heater core (but if they're bad they usually leak all over the passenger side inside the car), or it's possible that one or more of the vacum motors that control heat output to the heater/defroster went belly up. These move doors inside ducting to channel the heat to where you want it (heat, defrost, bi-level, etc.).

makarovboy

195* is stock. 160* and 180* are at you discretion. I went to a 180*, and it blows colder thru the heater than the 195*. It really makes no difference whatsoever, because if operating properly, all will work just fine, they just open and close at higher or lower temps and operate in the same manner as stock.

Some will say that a 160* is too cold. That's b.s. because the computer operates in closed loop anytime the engine is below 2500rpm. It constantly checks air/fuel ratio using maf voltage and 02 voltage to adjust air/fuel ratio. Above 2500rpm, all readings are taken from pre-programmed "look up tables" to keep the engine operating properly. At a cold start, the computer looks at water temp, throttle blade angle and then reverts to the program that's already there, injector size, etc. It would run just fine if you got a 120* tstat (never heard of one). That's why when you start the car cold, the idle stays high for a certain amount of time. It's like a choke on a carb. O.K., I'm going overboard here.