50Stocker

Hi,

I have a '93 GTdoes it have one?I am getting a new clutch...Spec Stage 3 clutch, anda UPR triple hook quadrant and the firewall adjuster (reusing the stock clutchcable).

The local late model mustang shop put a clutch return spring on the estimate...$49.95. I haven't hear of this being commonly replaced when people are doing work on their 5.0's. I asked the shop which spring they were referring to,I was thinking old school 64-66 Mustang style double hooks on each end,;the writer/counterperson explained something different- basically he said it was under the dash.

Iwas reviewing some parts of the estimate and again, I have not hear of this on a '93. I pulled out a classic mustang catalog schematic(64-66 3 speed), and and the clutch return spring was pictured exactly asI was thinking, with the clutch release lever return spring listed also, pretty similar to what I was thinking.

Regardless, I was thinking $49.95 seemed rather costly anyway (64-66 springs are like $17 bucks), and decided to check with Ford, nothing on the web, called parts store and Ford Parts dept, nothing in the computer. Called a different mustang shop, they stated that Ford stopped using them in 1984. "That car doesn't have one!" was shouted by the tech.

I know the 5.0 uses a cable system, not the old mechanical style linkage, but I didn't know if there was a spring somewhere I didn't know about.

Could this beanother part added on top of the UPR suggested for pedal adjustment?What "return spring" could they be referring to?

I am just trying to become as educated as possible, obviously for reasons you can understand...

Thanks for your help, I appreciate it.

PRO50SC

No return spring, find another shop!!

WhiteWindsor

That stage 3 clutch will be hard on a t-5. What engine mods do have?

50Stocker

No other engine mods, in the future hopefully will be adding heads and an intake, cold air...normal bolt ons. I kinda thought it would be a little overkill myself, shop suggested it, and I have seen them becoming popular on pretty much stock 5.0's here. Probably somewhat because of this shop...

Why do you think it will be hard on a T-5? Because of the high torgue rating?

WhiteWindsor

The stage 3 is for more high hp applications. The t-5 is not very strong in stock form. When this clutch grabs it grabs. You cant really slip the clutch like you would normally do. I run the stage 3 but i have a tko and a 351. It's not a good clutch for every day driving, i just cruise mine around occasionally. Call spec and tell them what plans you may have for the future and they will reccomend the right application for you.

50Stocker

I called and spoke with a SPEC rep, and he stated that they put more of these clutches (stage 3)in a 5.0 mustang than anything else. Ibasically told him my plans for the car.He saida 2+ would work as well maybe a little better driving feel.

Spec rep stated that this clutch is pretty much on or off, and does not engage like a stock clutch, and that it is either "on or off" he mentioned that you are going to get more chatter than a stock clutch. I had read the reviews and they were somewhat mixed about the chatter, some people were very happy after the break in period. That's pretty much whyI went with it.

Ialso asked the shop about the stage 3's chatter before I ordered it, and they said it didn't, but the stage 3+ chatters more. The SPEC rep said "they are out of their minds," for saying that.Makes decisions like this harder to make.

I won't be taking my car to the track for the 1/4, maybe road racing in the future, but pretty muchjust pleasure driving and car shows for now.Makes me think I should go with the King Cobra as it is full faced.

The shop stated that the spec clutch they get for this is a four puck, rather than a six.

Any opinions on the King Cobra for daily driving/ heads/cam/intake... Thank you very much for your input.

WhiteWindsor

I have never like the kc, some do. The first clutch that came to my mind for you is the spec stage 2. It is a good drivability clutch and alot stronger than stock or kc. I'm no expert by anymeans, but i would like the stage 2 for your application. I have the6 puck, the 4 puck is supposed to be even less forgiving for street driving.

blk40th

i think im going to buy the stage1. i feel that will be strong enough for a fairly stock motor.

WhiteWindsor

Exactly. If you do have future mod's in mind though, a stage 2 would accomodate them also. The stage 1 is still stronger than stock.

blk40th

i do have heads and cam in the near future, im planning an f cam (which FAST if you still have this when im ready i will be buying it from you) or a tfs stage 1. not sure on heads yet tho, so many choice such little money. but i already have my typhoon intake on the car when i bought it. everything will be ported at the time of heads n cam. i think the stage one will be enough. i wont be pushing more then 300 to the wheel i dont think.