5.0muscle

I JUST BOUGHT A 1990 GT. THE CLUTCH HAS TO BE REPLACED AND I'LL LIKELY HAVE THE FLYWHEEL GROUND ALONG WITH THE CABLE. I'D LIKE ANY TIPS AND OPINIONS ON HOW DIFFICULT THIS IS TO DO INMY DRIVEWAY. I HAVE JACK STANDS AND DRIVE ON RAMPS. HOW HEAVY IS THAT T5 TRANNY?

mjr46

un bolt the tranny from the bellhousing and it'll make it alot easier to do.....on a lift I can ****** one out in 45 min......but in the driveway? man sucks to be you but gotta do what ya gotta do...as far as having the flywheel ground...it's quicker and cheaper to buy a reman one..I got one at napa for 45 dollars a year ago...but honestly..I'd buy a new one cause more often than not regrinding them brings them close if not under spec and if that happens..you often end up with pedal height engagement issues

stang8689

The best tip i learned is when you are putting the tranny back in it will get till there is a 1/2' gap or so. Have someone push the clutch pedal in and it will slide right in

bighungrymatt

http://www.cartechbooks.com/vstore/s...5&CATID=21

this will give you an idea

FuzzyDiceRule

um, it took about 20 minutes to take out the TKO 600 in the mach, without downtime, i would expect the thing (without problems) to take about 2-3 hours, spread out over a weekend for flywheel resurfacing, just make sure you have a clutch alignment tool, and you know which way the flywheel goes back on, aligning that correctly under a car will be the bitch of all bitches, id mark the down direction with a sharpie or something to make sure it goes back in easily

5.0muscle

TIME WON'T BE A FACTOR HEAR. I'VE WAITED THIS LONG TO OWN A PONY.AND I'M WILLING TO WAIT A LITTLE LONGERTO GET THE PONY ON THE ROAD. READING ALL THE RELATED THREADS INVOLVING REPLACING THE CLUTCH, CABLE ASSEMBLY,ETC, IT DOESN'T SOUND TOO DIFFICULT. IF I'M DREAMING, SOMEONE SPEAK AND TELL ME SO. THANKS FOR YOUR ADVISE[sm=helpout.gif]

5.0muscle

THANKS FOR THE INFO. THE CAR TECH ATTACHMENTIS A BIG HELP.

5spd GT

Here is a write-up I did. It may further assist you...

Clutch Kit Part Numbers for 86-95 5.0L

Looking for 10.4-10.5 Inch Clutch Disc – 10 spline – 1 1/16th input shaft

Ford Racing Heavy Duty Clutch (30%) - FMS-M-7560-A302N
Ford Racing King Cobra (30% - Lighter pedal than HD) - FMS-M-7560-C302N

Centerforce Stage I Pressure Plate (30%) - CF-360048
Centerforce Stage II Pressure Plate (60% more holding power) - CFT-360048
Centerforce Stage I Pressure Plate for 93-95 Cobra - CF-360057
Centerforce Stage II Pressure Plate for 93-95 Cobra - CFT-360057
Centerforce Clutch Disc for Stage I/II Pressure Plate - CTF-381021
Centerforce Dual Friction Clutch for 86-93 (90% more holding power) - CTF-DF021048
Centerforce Dual Friction for 93-95 Cobra (Fits 86-95 but has more clamping force) - CTF-DF021057
Centerforce DFX series for 86-95 (Lightweight Centerforce Clutch Disc) - CTF-LM021057

Spec Stage I Clutch Kit – SF481 (30% more holding power)
Spec Stage II Clutch Kit – SF482 (60% more holding power)
Spec Stage III Clutch Kit – SF483 (100% more holding power)

Centerforce has the lightest pedal in the aftermarket.


Throwout Bearings and Bearing Retainers

Ford Racing Throwout Bearing - FMS-M-7548-A
Centerforce Throwout Bearing - CTF-N1714
Ford Racing Steel Bearing Retainer for 1983-1993- FMS-M-7050-A
Ford Racing Steel Bearing Retainer for 1994/1995- FMS-M-7050-B
D&D Performance Steel Bearing Retainer for 1985-1993 – AC3
D&D Performance Steel Bearing Retainer for 1994/1995 – AC34


94/95 Bearing Retainers are 17mm longer.

Clutch Cables and Quadrants

OEM Style Ford Racing Clutch Cable/Clutch Fork for 79-93 - FMS-M-7553-A302
Adjustable Ford Clutch Cable and Quadrant - FMS-M-7553-B302

Miscellaneous Bolts/Clutch Alignment Tools/Seals

Ford Pressure Plate Bolts - FMS-M-6397-A302
Ford Pressure Plate Bolts and Flywheel Dowel Pin Set - 397-M-6397-A302
ARP Flywheel Bolts - ARP-100-2801
ARP Flywheel Bolts - ARP-200-2802 (slightly stronger strength)
ARP Starter Bolt Kit - ARP-450-3501
ARP Thread Sealer - ARP-100-9904
Mr. Gasket Clutch Alignment Tool - MRG-6942
Centerforce Clutch Alignment Tool - CTF-52010
Transmission fluid – Dexron/Mercron III ATF fluid for the T5
Ford Racing 79-95 Aluminum Driveshaft - FMS-M4602G
Rubber Rear Main Seal - FELPRO BS40644 or Napa JV1635
Teflon Rear Main Seal - FPP-2941*

*A Teflon seal over a stock rubber seal provides a higher temperature rating (500*F), wide fluid compatibility, good mechanical sealing properties, lower friction, & reduced shaft wear compared to stock rubber. They are very small differences though.

"Speedi-Sleeve" for crank by Chicago Rawhide P/N 99362.

The Speedi-Sleeve is if your crank has a little groove where you rear main seal is, it is a bushing type seal that sits over your crank and gives it a smooth surface. Your local parts stores may have the crank sleeves as well for cheaper.

Suggested Parts and Checklist for Clutch Install

Clutch Disc
Pressure Plate
Throwout Bearing
Pilot Bearing*
Rear Main Seal*
New or Resurfaced Flywheel
Steel Throwout Bearing Retainer*
3 quarts of Mercon ATF fluid for the T5 (Takes 2.7 Quarts)*
Clutch Alignment Tool
Loc-Tite (Driveshaft Bolts)
Bearing Grease
RTV Silicone*
Gasket Scraper*
Degreaser*
Torque Wrench
Ratchet Wrench with combo of swivels and extensions
Shifter Bolts – 1/2 (13mm)
Manifold to H-pipe Bolts – 5/8"
H-pipe to Catback Bolts – 5/8"
02 Sensors – 7/8"
Driveshaft Bolts – 12 point 12mm Wrench
Starter Bolts – 3/8"
Speed Sensor Bolt – 10mm
Transmission/Bellhousing Bolts – 5/8"
Pressure Plate – 7/16 or 1/2"
Flywheel – 3/4"

*If needed

You can reuse all bolts if they are in good shape during a clutch swap and keeping a nice array of sockets and deep well sockets is a good idea.

Torque Specifications

Flywheel Bolts – 75-85 ft. lbs
Pressure Plate – 24 ft. lbs
Steel Bearing Retainer Bolts - 24 ft. lbs
Bellhousing Bolts– 45-65 ft. lbs
Transmission Bolts – 45-65 ft. lbs
Starter Bolts – 6-11 ft. lbs
Driveshaft Bolts – 70-95 ft. lbs
Shifter Bolt into Transmission Housing - 6-11 ft. lbs

Transmission Speedometer Gear Chart

Steel/Iron and Aluminum Flywheel

Ford Racing Iron Flywheel Stock Replacement – 21 lbs - 397-M-6375-B302
Centerforce Aluminum Flywheel – 11.9 lbs - CTF-900320
Centerforce Steel Flywheel – 27.6 lbs - CTF-700320
Fidanza Aluminum Flywheel – 13.5 lbs - # 186501

Clutch Swap Disassembly, Install, and Reassembly

Disclaimer – Do at your own risk and research.

First jack up the car safely and securely on all four corners and the more room underneath the better so you can remove and install items much easier. Proper jack and jack stand placement is key for safety. A friend or two is probably the best way to go about the install. You will find yourself needing more hands than you have pretty quickly.

Go ahead and disconnect the negative side of the battery. Go ahead and remove the shifter (or at least the handle) so you can drop the transmission without the shifter holding it in due to rubbing. Four bolts hold it to the transmission and two bolts hold the shift lever on the shifter base. Pull up on the shifter using the handle if you choose to remove it completely. It will give you better leverage but be careful when it finally pops loose because you might go flying back or scratch interior pieces with the shifter. I put towels around the console to prevent this. Next I would go under the car and start unbolting your mid-pipe, which is held on by a total of 8 bolts (2 for each point of connection). They can be a pain to remove if they haven’t been removed in a while they can seize to the studs/bolts. Use some wd40 or Liquid Wrench to help with this process. A combination of extensions and a swivel would be a good start to getting to the manifold/h-pipe connections. Make sure before you completely drop the pipe that the 02 sensors are disconnected. You can use a flathead screwdriver to pop off the harness connection. Pull the mid-pipe from underneath the car. Now would be a good time to clean it off from all the road grime. Next I go to remove the driveshaft which is held in by 4 bolts in where you will need a 12 point 12 mm socket or wrench to fit over the bolts perfectly. The driveshaft bolts are commonly very stubborn to get off. If you can get a break-over bar on the bolts then you should be able to break them loose. I use the appropriate wrench and put a hollow bar over it and break them loose that way. It helps on the leverage. When you go to remove the bolts you will need to rotate the driveshaft to get an angle on the bolts. When you find the right angle put the car in gear (take your shifter and temporarily install it on the transmission and stick it in gear) and put on the e-brake to prevent the back tires from turning so you can break the bolts loose. Once you have removed all 4 bolts you are now ready to remove the driveshaft. When you pull the driveshaft out from its trans housing do not be surprised if transmission fluid comes out (normal). You can buy the driveshaft β€œplugs” that will be placed where the driveshaft was inputted or you can use a rubber band and Ziploc baggy and rig it up to catch any of the fluid so you don’t loose to much.

Now that the driveshaft is removed you can go ahead and undo any transmission connections that are on the transmission. You need to remove the neutral safety switch that pulls off and the speedometer gear which is held on by one 10mm bolt. Pull them out of the way so they don’t snag on anything. Remove any other connections that you may notice

bighungrymatt

yeah its really not that hard at all... I did mine for the first time about 6 months ago

5.0muscle

THANKS FOR ALL YOUR HELP GUYS. I HOPE THAT I'M ON THE OTHER END HELPING SOMEONE ELSE THE NEXT TIME AROUND. I'M LOOKING FOWARD TO THIS NOW.