BenNasty

1. Just watched a video on you tube of a 94 mustang gt on the dyno. the mods stated were a off road h-pipe,headers, ram air, and an american thunder flowmaster cat back exhaust, and bumped timing, and it produced 217 rwhp and somethingaround 278 rwtq. can i expect roughly the same with a 94 gt with shorty headers, full exhaust(true dual style) flowmaster 40 series mufflers and a cold air intake?

2. Now correct me if im wrong but "ram air" is only optimum if the car is moving forward hence the name "ram" due to the air being rammed into the ducts on the hood, so therefore the ram air mechanism is very useless in the dyno box. also the hood is raised. now the inake portion will still suck air butit will be minimal as opposed to driving forward.... i stated this because i have CAI and that should prove to be more optimum in a "dyno type " scenario.

3. Exactly what does he mean by "bumped timing". does he mean adjusted to optimum performance? how does he know when that is acheived. Is there a specific degree that i can adjust to that will optimize perfomance that the factory didnt due for a reason such as gas mileage?

Note: I am a mechanic so dont hold back on the technical stuff i just never owned a ford and my philosophy is "engines are the same but they are totaly different" if that makes sense.

mjr46

1. 217 ehhh.....slow 5.0 in my book....but if it floats your boat....gotta start with a base somewhere
2.if they have fans blowing on the ram air like most dyno shops have it may help a little but more so the outside air temp is a big factor when a car is dynoed
3. bump timing meanse move from base setting of 10 degrees to approximately max of 12-14..it'll depend on the tuner what it's set to
4.you said you were a mechanic and don't know what it means to bump the timing???okay your a mechanic on what?? cars....tractors big trucks??..not being rude just curious

PRO50SC

You're a mechanic and don't know the term, "bumped Timing"
Come on!


You are correct on points 1&2. As for 3, you want to advance the timing to a point just before ignition detonation. Could be anywhere from 2 to 8 degrees depending on climate, octane being used. The more timing, the more power.

BenNasty

look at the circustances!!!! the cars i have built all have been carbuerated and all have been naturally aspirated... i have five ase's and am certifiedd to work on honda and lexus, which you should know asc's dont mean ****... it is easy for me to understand what someone tells me based on experience rather than me got outside and mees something up trying to do it like its done in the shop... never really had someone that was into building fast cars look over my work but the fastest car i have single handedly built is a1986 olds cutlass 442 with a 355( a 350 c.i.d bored .30 over) 12.20 quater mile on pump gas. also if you look at my post it said i am now in the seattle area, well that is 3000 plus mile from my home in washington d.c. therefore gas is extremely more expensive, at home i dont mind running premium but here mid grade is more up my alley. so i would think that i could receive some tips from some mustang guys with out all the bashing after all ive got a couple of gm's and mopars up my sleeve that was built byme, and theguy that you are bashing and can prove it....(will post videos)all the help(without the sarcasm) is greatly appreciated

thanx

mjr46

I agree asc's don't mean chit.......tell me where to become asc certified I want that one[sm=icon_rofl.gif].....and working on carbed cars which by the way all three in my sig are..and you didn't learn bump the timing then?? oh well anyway 12.20 not bad...what's your stang got now done to it??

BenNasty

yeah you caught me slipping with the asc remark its just so easy to say ase and type asc. automotive service excellence yeah yeah yeah!!!!! yeah 12.20's are extra good on old super sleds. and i know how to adjust timing and what the symtoms areof an ill timed engine, it just that when it comes to modifying a potentially potent engine im clueless. (the ford 5.0 and my friend the chevrolet 5.0 and his cousin the olds 5.0 are totally different). where as the ford 5.0 holds a big name for its remarkable output of hp and tq and the gm versions were just mere paper weights. So everytime i built a gm it was a chevy 350 bored over, workedcast iron heads and on one vortech heads a big cam full exhaust, no cats, usually a holly double pumper, turbo 350 with a 3000 stall, some 3.73, posi, and some good tires. engine swap, all the time... mustangs are different!!!! ive seen 5.0's run 11's never a chevy 5.0 in a g body> cutlass, monte carlo, regal, etc... unless it was stroked to a 335 and had a power adder.

my car has shorty headers, the exhaust is done true dual style-no x pipe or h pipe, flow master 40 series mufflers, CAI and it came with some msd wires on it not sure what the mm are... i have had the car all of two weeks just want mid to low thirteens.(only car that i have in seattle....

DrmZero

wow man.. you a new guy... not too much unlike me... and ur going to get buthurt b/c people bash you a little? wtf... everyone will help you, but let them have a little fun... and if you wokred with carbed cars, you would defiately know what bumped timing is...

mjr46

A GM 305 can be built to have power.. I've seen it done but most people say why waste the time cause a 350 has so much more potential and physically the blocks are the same size.......most people leave the 305 where it was intended and that's in a station wagon......now for a 302 to compare to a 350...ya' gotta stroke the 302....a built 302 vs a built 350 with the same parts....= a 350 will win hands down = no replacement for displacement.......but a 302 has alot to offer and if buil right can yield excellent power.....as for your true dual set up??? I'd really switch it over to a h or x pipe to have a balanced and tuned exhaust flow as your car will benifit from it.. and the mm is abbreviation for milimeter.....they are either 8 or 9 mm wires.......basically you want mid to low 13's here is a recipe to do it:
1. Gears ..3.73's
2. heads...afr 165's..or a set of ported gt-40's
3.steeda #19 cam for good idle
4. cobra intake....have it ported to
5. dyno tune
6 or you could add a supercharger and get there easy
7. all other supporting mods like mass air, fuel system upgrade, throttle body......

either way you look at it your gonna need to spend a good bit of money if you want consistent hp....NOS will give instant hp but not consistent hp

BenNasty

I DEFINITLY AGREE WITH YOUR THEROY ON GM 305 ALTHOUGH FROM EXPERIENCE THE CARBED 305 WERE HARDLY EVER BUILT FOR SPEED... THE TPI OR EVEN THE TBI WERE THE ATTENTION GETTERS. IF IM NOT MISTAKEN THEY HAD ONLY BETWEEN 5 AND SEVEN LESS HORESEPOWER THAN THE STANDARD 350'S(IN THE MID EIGHTIES CAMARO). MOST OF THE PARTS WERE BORROWED FROM THE 350. JUST THE 350 COULD BE TAKEN ALOT FURTHER WITH PERFORMANCE. NOW AS FAR AS YOUR OTHER COMMENTS THAT IS THE RECIPE THAT IM LOOKING FOR. THAT IS WHAT I NEED RIGHT THERE. NOW THERE IS AN ARTICLE ABOUT BUDGET 5.0 BUILDING AND THE GUY STATED THAT HE GOT 4.10 GEARS 70 MM THROTTLE BODY, MASS AIR SENSOR NOT SURE WHAT SIZE FULL EXHAUST UPPER AND LOWER INTAKE STOCK "WORKED" HEADS AND A HOT CAM SOME GOOD MICKEY THOMPSON DRAG RADIALS AND A LITTLE WEIGHT REDUCTIONHE PUT UP LOW THIRTEENS ALTHOUGH HE HAD THE FASTER I WANT TO SAY 92 MODEL YEAR..

AND TO DRMZRO BUMPED TIMING FROM WHAT IT SOUNDS LIKE TO ME IS THAT THE TIMING IS ADJUSTED TO A POINT WHEN THE ENGINE WILL GIVE YOU MOST POWER WITHOUT DETONATION.... NOW WITH THAT SAID I DID NOT KNOW WHAT "BUMPED TIMING" MEANT BUT I KNOW WHAT ADJUST THE TIMNG MEANS. DONT REALLY CARE BOUT THE BASHING (I MEAN IM IN THE ARMY C'MON) BUT SOMETIME PEOPLE MAKE YOU SEEM LIKE YOU DONT NO CHIT WHEN YOU HAVENT DONE WHAT THEY HAVE DONE....
ONCE AGAIN THANX ALOT GUYS

5spd GT

We all have different terms for the same thing. It can cause confusion. Some forget this...

Don't worry Ben, there are decent people here