302 cylinder honing question...
01-29-2008, 01:37 PM
#1
2nd Gear Member
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302 cylinder honing question...
Need to hone out my clyinders and planned on using a regular ball hone. I don't want to bore anyhting down, just smoothen things out.
Autozone rents out a hone, but i was told it is a stone kind instead ofa ball? Will this do the same thing and just smoothen out the cylinder?
I beleive this is it here...
http://www.autozone.com/Ntt,cylinder...allResults.htm
Autozone rents out a hone, but i was told it is a stone kind instead ofa ball? Will this do the same thing and just smoothen out the cylinder?
I beleive this is it here...
http://www.autozone.com/Ntt,cylinder...allResults.htm
01-29-2008, 01:46 PM
#2
1st Gear Member
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RE: 302 cylinder honing question...
the problem with these types of hones is that you end up making the cylinders bigger at the top and bottom, and the middle stays slightly smaller.(because When you go up and down with the drill you spend more time at the top and bottom of the cylinder). If you just wanted to "rough" the surface then you shouldn't have any problems, just be careful. If you want a good straight hone then take it to a machine shop.
01-29-2008, 02:02 PM
#3
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RE: 302 cylinder honing question...
Ya i just wanted to rough it up a bit. The cylinders arn't in too bad of shape. Do you think if i just do it carefully and just drill a little bit, it will work out fine. As long as i dont screw the whole block up.
01-29-2008, 02:34 PM
#4
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: PA
Posts: 823
RE: 302 cylinder honing question...
The ball or "berrie bush" will remove very little material unless you use it for a long time. It's main use is to put a fresh crosshatch on the cylider wall. If you want to "true up" the cylinders so the measurements are the same from top to bottom, you should use a stone hone. It must be set so the two stones are perfectly parallel to each other and care must be taken not to spend too much time on one cylinder and it must be held straight in the bore and moved up and down slowly. A bore dial gauge MUST be used when honing... hone a little, take a measurement, hone some more, measure again, etc. It is an art that can mess up a block if not done correctly. If you have bore taper and just use a ball, it won't be enough. My advice it to get some good measurements on the bores with a dial gauge and find out what needs to be done to the cylinders to make them right. It may turn out that all you need is a ball to resurface them.
01-29-2008, 02:40 PM
#5
4th Gear Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Michigan
Posts: 1,561
RE: 302 cylinder honing question...
ORIGINAL: capri debris
The ball or "berrie bush" will remove very little material unless you use it for a long time. It's main use is to put a fresh crosshatch on the cylider wall. If you want to "true up" the cylinders so the measurements are the same from top to bottom, you should use a stone hone. It must be set so the two stones are perfectly parallel to each other and care must be taken not to spend too much time on one cylinder and it must be held straight in the bore and moved up and down slowly. A bore dial gauge MUST be used when honing... hone a little, take a measurement, hone some more, measure again, etc. It is an art that can mess up a block if not done correctly. If you have bore taper and just use a ball, it won't be enough. My advice it to get some good measurements on the bores with a dial gauge and find out what needs to be done to the cylinders to make them right. It may turn out that all you need is a ball to resurface them.
The ball or "berrie bush" will remove very little material unless you use it for a long time. It's main use is to put a fresh crosshatch on the cylider wall. If you want to "true up" the cylinders so the measurements are the same from top to bottom, you should use a stone hone. It must be set so the two stones are perfectly parallel to each other and care must be taken not to spend too much time on one cylinder and it must be held straight in the bore and moved up and down slowly. A bore dial gauge MUST be used when honing... hone a little, take a measurement, hone some more, measure again, etc. It is an art that can mess up a block if not done correctly. If you have bore taper and just use a ball, it won't be enough. My advice it to get some good measurements on the bores with a dial gauge and find out what needs to be done to the cylinders to make them right. It may turn out that all you need is a ball to resurface them.
01-29-2008, 03:13 PM
#6
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: PA
Posts: 823
RE: 302 cylinder honing question...
ORIGINAL: stangman94
I call it the dingle berry drill
ORIGINAL: capri debris
The ball or "berrie bush" will remove very little material unless you use it for a long time. It's main use is to put a fresh crosshatch on the cylider wall. If you want to "true up" the cylinders so the measurements are the same from top to bottom, you should use a stone hone. It must be set so the two stones are perfectly parallel to each other and care must be taken not to spend too much time on one cylinder and it must be held straight in the bore and moved up and down slowly. A bore dial gauge MUST be used when honing... hone a little, take a measurement, hone some more, measure again, etc. It is an art that can mess up a block if not done correctly. If you have bore taper and just use a ball, it won't be enough. My advice it to get some good measurements on the bores with a dial gauge and find out what needs to be done to the cylinders to make them right. It may turn out that all you need is a ball to resurface them.
The ball or "berrie bush" will remove very little material unless you use it for a long time. It's main use is to put a fresh crosshatch on the cylider wall. If you want to "true up" the cylinders so the measurements are the same from top to bottom, you should use a stone hone. It must be set so the two stones are perfectly parallel to each other and care must be taken not to spend too much time on one cylinder and it must be held straight in the bore and moved up and down slowly. A bore dial gauge MUST be used when honing... hone a little, take a measurement, hone some more, measure again, etc. It is an art that can mess up a block if not done correctly. If you have bore taper and just use a ball, it won't be enough. My advice it to get some good measurements on the bores with a dial gauge and find out what needs to be done to the cylinders to make them right. It may turn out that all you need is a ball to resurface them.
01-29-2008, 08:20 PM
#7
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Join Date: Aug 2007
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Posts: 351
RE: 302 cylinder honing question...
ya i mean the cylinder is in nice shape, very smooth. There is only a small like hairline lip on a few of the cylinders on the top and bottom of them. Should i not even bother with honing them, because ive never done it and really dont want to risk the chance of screwing it up when its really not that bad to begin with.
01-29-2008, 08:28 PM
#9
D.R. THE PATHETIC DORK
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: West Virginia
Posts: 30,863
RE: 302 cylinder honing question...
if there is a ridge...I use a ridge reamer and cut off the ridge and run a berry hone through it and call it a day...it's not that hard[&:]....don't be scared.....I put mine on a drill and while honing it I squirt a few drops of oil and or penatrating oil and hone away moving up and down at a straight even pace and I don't spin the drill at full speed either..moderate to slow
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