newb Engine Build - update (6/24)
06-16-2008, 09:53 PM
#11
D.R. THE PATHETIC DORK
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: West Virginia
Posts: 30,863
RE: newb Engine Build
ORIGINAL: capri debris
Cool... "poop-in a can" is gonna buildhis firstmotor!!! Give me a shout if ya' have any questions... I'll try to help as much as I can. My first advice is not to turn the crank unless you really need to... they usually only need a good polishing and you can do that yourself with some emery cloth. Listen to mjr on the push rod advice...since you are decking the heads, you'll probably need shorter than stock push rods, so wait till the very end to measure for the length and then order them. As far as using the explorer pistons, that will be decided for you when the block is finished being honed. You can use the stock size pistons only if less than 6 thousands of an inch MAX.is removed from the cylider walls. Stock bore size is 4 inches, so the max bore width can only be 4.006" to use stock pistons and even then you MUST use file fit rings to get the end gap correct. Your gap width will depend on whether your NA, blown or spraying it. Also, remember that you can't have any cylinder out of round or any bore taper from top to bottom ofmore than 2 or 3 thousands of an inch or less. If you can't meet all these specs with just honing it... you'll have no choice but to bore it 10, 20 or 30 over and get new pistons to fit the finished bore. Make sure you put the retaining ring on the oil pump shaft to keep it from pulling out if you ever have to pull the dizzy later on. Use both gaskets on the oil pump... one on the base and one where the pick up tube attaches. Put sealant on the rear main cap corners to keep oil from leaking out of them later on. (see my rebuild thread) Put sealant on the flywheel bolt threads to keep oil from leaking out from around the bolt heads... because they thread all the way into the crank case. make sure you have an accurate torque wrench and follow all torque ratings and sequences.
Cool... "poop-in a can" is gonna buildhis firstmotor!!! Give me a shout if ya' have any questions... I'll try to help as much as I can. My first advice is not to turn the crank unless you really need to... they usually only need a good polishing and you can do that yourself with some emery cloth. Listen to mjr on the push rod advice...since you are decking the heads, you'll probably need shorter than stock push rods, so wait till the very end to measure for the length and then order them. As far as using the explorer pistons, that will be decided for you when the block is finished being honed. You can use the stock size pistons only if less than 6 thousands of an inch MAX.is removed from the cylider walls. Stock bore size is 4 inches, so the max bore width can only be 4.006" to use stock pistons and even then you MUST use file fit rings to get the end gap correct. Your gap width will depend on whether your NA, blown or spraying it. Also, remember that you can't have any cylinder out of round or any bore taper from top to bottom ofmore than 2 or 3 thousands of an inch or less. If you can't meet all these specs with just honing it... you'll have no choice but to bore it 10, 20 or 30 over and get new pistons to fit the finished bore. Make sure you put the retaining ring on the oil pump shaft to keep it from pulling out if you ever have to pull the dizzy later on. Use both gaskets on the oil pump... one on the base and one where the pick up tube attaches. Put sealant on the rear main cap corners to keep oil from leaking out of them later on. (see my rebuild thread) Put sealant on the flywheel bolt threads to keep oil from leaking out from around the bolt heads... because they thread all the way into the crank case. make sure you have an accurate torque wrench and follow all torque ratings and sequences.
06-24-2008, 09:26 PM
#12
5th Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Massachusetts, New Bedford
Posts: 3,035
RE: newb Engine Build
ok so tonight my buddy and i did some tear down work.i got the intake manifold, rockers, pushrods, 1 header, and 1 cylinder head off.. the other header has one bolt on it i cannot get off... it kinda looks like it is welded to the header itself.. i cracked my 1/2 deep socket on it.. i need to get some damn craftsman tools so if it breaks i can get a new one. oh well my buddy and i are gonna do a lot more tomorrow.
oh and i got some 24# injectors thanks to 94yellow50. thanx man i appreciate it. if anyone has anything to help me out plz let me kno.
anyways here are some pics. i assume i def need to get this thing honed atleast. if not bored.
and this engine seems to have this weird bracket in place of the dogbones.. should i reuse this or find some dogbones?
oh and i got some 24# injectors thanks to 94yellow50. thanx man i appreciate it. if anyone has anything to help me out plz let me kno.
anyways here are some pics. i assume i def need to get this thing honed atleast. if not bored.
and this engine seems to have this weird bracket in place of the dogbones.. should i reuse this or find some dogbones?
06-24-2008, 10:20 PM
#13
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: arlington,WA
Posts: 3,743
RE: newb Engine Build
man your gonna need to do some micing to see what the bores are like or if out of round or have a machine shop do this if your not confident.
i would be honing,polish the crank (if u can get away with both),new rod and main bearings,piston rings,oil pump and shaft.at the very least.
i would be honing,polish the crank (if u can get away with both),new rod and main bearings,piston rings,oil pump and shaft.at the very least.
06-24-2008, 11:18 PM
#14
D.R. THE PATHETIC DORK
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: West Virginia
Posts: 30,863
RE: newb Engine Build
ORIGINAL: nacanitihs
ok so tonight my buddy and i did some tear down work.i got the intake manifold, rockers, pushrods, 1 header, and 1 cylinder head off.. the other header has one bolt on it i cannot get off... it kinda looks like it is welded to the header itself.. i cracked my 1/2 deep socket on it.. i need to get some damn craftsman tools so if it breaks i can get a new one. oh well my buddy and i are gonna do a lot more tomorrow.
oh and i got some 24# injectors thanks to 94yellow50. thanx man i appreciate it. if anyone has anything to help me out plz let me kno.
anyways here are some pics. i assume i def need to get this thing honed atleast. if not bored.
and this engine seems to have this weird bracket in place of the dogbones.. should i reuse this or find some dogbones?
ok so tonight my buddy and i did some tear down work.i got the intake manifold, rockers, pushrods, 1 header, and 1 cylinder head off.. the other header has one bolt on it i cannot get off... it kinda looks like it is welded to the header itself.. i cracked my 1/2 deep socket on it.. i need to get some damn craftsman tools so if it breaks i can get a new one. oh well my buddy and i are gonna do a lot more tomorrow.
oh and i got some 24# injectors thanks to 94yellow50. thanx man i appreciate it. if anyone has anything to help me out plz let me kno.
anyways here are some pics. i assume i def need to get this thing honed atleast. if not bored.
and this engine seems to have this weird bracket in place of the dogbones.. should i reuse this or find some dogbones?
what you need to do is to stop trying to remove head bolts with 3/8 tools...go get an impact gun and some 1/2 sockets..harbor frieght sells them cheap enough and they'll accomplish the task okay
06-25-2008, 02:44 AM
#15
Moderator
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Michigan
Posts: 3,264
RE: newb Engine Build
P.S. Autozone, Advance Auto Parts, and Murrays all rent tools. Basically you put down whatever the tool cost, use the tool, return it and get your cash back. I would reccomend looking into that for some stuff.
06-25-2008, 03:37 PM
#16
5th Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Massachusetts, New Bedford
Posts: 3,035
RE: newb Engine Build
ORIGINAL: mjr46
what you need to do is to stop trying to remove head bolts with 3/8 tools...go get an impact gun and some 1/2 sockets..harbor frieght sells them cheap enough and they'll accomplish the task okay
what you need to do is to stop trying to remove head bolts with 3/8 tools...go get an impact gun and some 1/2 sockets..harbor frieght sells them cheap enough and they'll accomplish the task okay
and i cracked the 1/2 socket on the header bolt.... i tried to hammer it on the one i cant get off so i could get a good grip
06-25-2008, 03:39 PM
#17
5th Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Massachusetts, New Bedford
Posts: 3,035
RE: newb Engine Build
ORIGINAL: Explosive
P.S. Autozone, Advance Auto Parts, and Murrays all rent tools. Basically you put down whatever the tool cost, use the tool, return it and get your cash back. I would reccomend looking into that for some stuff.
P.S. Autozone, Advance Auto Parts, and Murrays all rent tools. Basically you put down whatever the tool cost, use the tool, return it and get your cash back. I would reccomend looking into that for some stuff.
06-25-2008, 09:50 PM
#18
5th Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Massachusetts, New Bedford
Posts: 3,035
RE: newb Engine Build
well this isnt really a build update but i picked this up today. a rust free hatch with cobra wing. my hatch is all warped and the saleen spoiler is ripped.... but anyways it looks like maybe the rust was repaired? or just crappy paint.. but it doesnt matter anyways cuz im painting it blue anyway
06-25-2008, 10:14 PM
#19
D.R. THE PATHETIC DORK
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: West Virginia
Posts: 30,863
RE: newb Engine Build
ORIGINAL: nacanitihs
lol i have some impact tools but my compressor **** the bed.. granted it was a small one that i got for x-mas a few years back..
and i cracked the 1/2 socket on the header bolt.... i tried to hammer it on the one i cant get off so i could get a good grip
ORIGINAL: mjr46
what you need to do is to stop trying to remove head bolts with 3/8 tools...go get an impact gun and some 1/2 sockets..harbor frieght sells them cheap enough and they'll accomplish the task okay
what you need to do is to stop trying to remove head bolts with 3/8 tools...go get an impact gun and some 1/2 sockets..harbor frieght sells them cheap enough and they'll accomplish the task okay
and i cracked the 1/2 socket on the header bolt.... i tried to hammer it on the one i cant get off so i could get a good grip
06-25-2008, 10:42 PM
#20
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: louisiana
Posts: 2,763
RE: newb Engine Build
heres a word of advice, just b/c comp said use this spring...doesnt mean it will work.
installed hight, coil bind, seat and closed pressure,all make a huge difference. and the spring has to be the right size to fit inside the head all make a huge difference.
it will take a good bit of spring to control the valve train, trust me! i got the cam. the stock eddy rpm head springs wont cut it, 6k and they are floating, before that point you get harmonics, that robs power and does bad things just like floating. the ford racing lifters wont be enough either, with the increased spring pressure, they wont take it too long. get a set of good comp lifters. i bought some lifters from jay allen at camshaft innovations, they will work good for my setup now.
you might want to email him about valvetrain parts, but dont plan on getting a whole complete rundown without having to put something on the table, if you know what i mean. if you have a local engine guy, talk to him also.
installed hight, coil bind, seat and closed pressure,all make a huge difference. and the spring has to be the right size to fit inside the head all make a huge difference.
it will take a good bit of spring to control the valve train, trust me! i got the cam. the stock eddy rpm head springs wont cut it, 6k and they are floating, before that point you get harmonics, that robs power and does bad things just like floating. the ford racing lifters wont be enough either, with the increased spring pressure, they wont take it too long. get a set of good comp lifters. i bought some lifters from jay allen at camshaft innovations, they will work good for my setup now.
you might want to email him about valvetrain parts, but dont plan on getting a whole complete rundown without having to put something on the table, if you know what i mean. if you have a local engine guy, talk to him also.