goathead75

Okay, I fully admit to knowing zero about springs which is why I'm asking. I've had a clunk in the front end for a while and it started pulling hard left recently. I went underneath the check the tie rod and low and behold my front spring on the driver's side is broken in half! Kind of surprised to find that, but anyway...now I need new springs.

The car isn't a daily driver and is pretty much stock except for bolt-ons. I'm not looking to lower it (or very little if any) and I'd rather not have the car make me p!ss blood after driving it. Unfortunately the roads up here blow so I'm not sure how a stiff spring would react. Car doesn't really get raced or 1/4'd at all so would I be best off going with a stock replacement or is there a better option that will give a little bit better performance withing requiring a kidney belt?

OnyxCobra

Both of my front springs broke on me, awesome.


I think you're under the impression that lowered Mustangs ride horrible, definitely not true if you spend the money to do it right. It sounds like you just want it back to how it was so I suggest stock springs. That way you can avoid doing struts/shocks and possibly camber plates.

goathead75

I'm definitely under the impression that lowered Mustangs ride horrible. If that's not the case, I'll listen. I've personally never touched any of the suspension on my cars/trucks so I'm not sure what to expect. I just see guys with slammed cars up here busting out their teeth going over pot holes and I'm all set with that.

I'm also wondering how deep I go with this since everything is original on the car. I figure if I'm already doing the springs I should then I should do the shocks, control arms, ball joints and take a look at the tie rods and sway bar end links while I'm in there. My wife is going to give me about $1000 to work with so I've got to see what I can do with it.

FivePointOhh

to give you an idea i replaced for right around 1k

eibach drag springs
strange engineering shock/struts
UPR upper and lower control arms
bolt kit
spring isolators(front and rear)
hotchkis C/C plates
breaks disk and drums
drum hardware
axel bearings
wheel bearings + supporting hardware

that was all new for about $1,1XX.XX
if you replace ball joints, tie rods, end links blah blah blah its going to nickle and dime you into the 1300 dollar range. personally you should only replace whats bad.



P.S. not to toot my own horn or anything but this set up to me is wonderful! i have more versitility than 95% of the cars out there. i can go from caddy to drag beast in 1 minute