door trim ?
12-21-2008, 05:46 PM
#11
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: New England
Posts: 650
Yeah, I know all about those little channels. I had to replace them and it only took 4 months to get them from 50resto.com
12-21-2008, 05:49 PM
#12
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: New England
Posts: 650
You can buy thin trim for the rear quarter windows that just go right over top the existing trim. I believe it just glues into place. Was at Fun Ford Weekend two years ago and there was a couple vendors for it with some mustangs as examples; looked real sharp! I figure if you go on late model restoration you'll probably find them there on the cheap. Good luck bud.
I believe this is what he's referring to:
http://www.mustangsunlimited.com/ite...s&CatKey=74-01
12-21-2008, 06:23 PM
#15
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: NC
Posts: 2,166
The door molding is held on with double sided tape. For the quarter windows consider painting them. I used filler primer on mine and duplicolor engine enamel and they still look great. Got two years on the paint now.
12-21-2008, 08:02 PM
#17
4th Gear Member
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: texas
Posts: 1,175
the ony thing wrong with the covers are the scratch real easy. i have a pair in the back of my car waiting to be installed but i might try filling the dryrott sports first. they are made of plastic and you know how plastic gets those sunshine mini scratch at an angle, mine came this way in the box, i guess from moving around. they are paintable tho
12-22-2008, 02:37 PM
#19
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: SC
Posts: 665
i think the mid door molding is just on there with double sides tape with glue or something .. youd have to put a heat gun to the molding let the glue start melting and just pull it off slow .. ive never heard of a way to fix those window moldings but i did read somewhere those covers look like crap i dont know .. but someone with skills might be able to bondo or fiberglass over it smooth it down and paint it ...
oh sh*t i didnt see there was a second page haha gotta cut down on them trees : o)
oh sh*t i didnt see there was a second page haha gotta cut down on them trees : o)
Last edited by ponyboy302; 12-22-2008 at 02:39 PM.
12-22-2008, 04:49 PM
#20
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Howard City, MI
Posts: 5,956
Use a sharp pudy knife to take the molding off, it will be work, but the best way. Be very carful to not bend them up. After that, you WILL have to remove the metal strip in the back. I did this on all of mine and they look great. If you don't take the strip out, they will never lay flat no matter how good of a job you do removing them.
As far as the rear windows go, you have a couple of options, rear window trim covers(heard they don't look too good and they cost a few bucks) or you can sand the roughness down then use a flexible filler or a high build filler primer (that is what I did, they still look stock and like new, and it only cost less then $20) I used some seikens rally black, would highly recommend that for all your trim you want black. One can (about $15) did the whole car and it looks factory.
I could post pictures if you want to become a believer.....
As far as the rear windows go, you have a couple of options, rear window trim covers(heard they don't look too good and they cost a few bucks) or you can sand the roughness down then use a flexible filler or a high build filler primer (that is what I did, they still look stock and like new, and it only cost less then $20) I used some seikens rally black, would highly recommend that for all your trim you want black. One can (about $15) did the whole car and it looks factory.
I could post pictures if you want to become a believer.....
