luckythirteen13

went to the track again last night. not the best night ive had. i put in the new msd 2 step and turned off the one in my pms. what a difference that thing makes. builds boost almost instantly and more of it while still sitting on the line. only problem now is that the et streets just cant hold that kind of power right off the line.

last weeks best run:
60'...1.686
330...4.782
1/8...7.334
MPH...96.56

this weeks passes:
60'...1.757
330...4.812
1/8...7.324
MPH...95.39

60'...2.041
330...5.273
1/8...7.829
MPH...96.46

60'...1.786
330...4.884
1/8...7.427
MPH...94.63

spun the tires on every pass. i started with 15psi in the tires and dropped down to 10psi by the 3rd pass and nothing helped. roasted the tires on the 2nd pass. on the plus side, my first pass of the night was .01 seconds faster then i have ever run despite the tire spin.
afr is good, still running 5.5psi of boost. i dont have any choice but to buy a new set of wheels and mount some slicks on them and try again. itll be a while before i go back because im having some issues. not only are my wheel studs too short for the weld drag lites (so says tech), but i need a fire resistant jacket because i have a power added and i need more padding on my roll cage. on top of all that my headers still glow bright orange all the time. i finally broke down and called rick anderson and asked for tuning tips with the pms. he said if afr is good and it drives fine, its not the tuning that is the problem. i didnt tell him anything about my setup when he asked if im running mac or other cheap brand header (i am and told him). he said they call mac headers glow worms (or something like that) down at his shop because after a few passes on the dyno if they shut the doors and turn off all the lights, the mac headers will be so bright theyll light up his shop. this means a lot of work for me. basically i need to pull my whole turbo kit out and fabricate a jig to hold the headers while i work. i need to make a plate the header flange can bolt to, then i need to make a plage the turbo flange can bolt to. with both plates bolted to by header, i have to weld a sturdy pipe from one plate to the other. this will hold the distance between where the header mounts to the motor and turbo consistant. with this jig made i can then cut the mac headers off of the rest of the kit and then weld in a new set of shorty headers. after that ill probably ceramic coat both headers. im hoping to spend under $400 for that and no more then $500-$600 for the safety BS. then all i need is the wheels and slicks and i can race again. needless to say im in no hurry to spend all that money on something i dont even drive other then once a week to the track.

Timspony

Good runs! ...need the safety stuff!

Portmaster

Can't wait to start getting mine dialed in. Havent had any seat time lately. Youre geting there

mjr46

I hear ya' on the saftey stuff, mine needs alot to be track legal for the times it'll run, but I'm just gonna leave mine as is

luckythirteen13

ya i know, but that doesnt me i have to like it.


anyone have the part number to the summit brank knock offs they make of drag lites or pro stars, whatever it is?

FivePointOhh

if you're 4 lug still the biggest you can get that'll work on the fox and not stick out too far are 8" rim that i know they have

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

otherwise if you get a 10" rim pretty sure you need a 6.5 offset and they dont make those in the knock off. i could be wrong though.

luckythirteen13

wow half the price of a drag lite. im still 4 lug, ill need the 5.5" BS because i run a 28" tire