Tony71502

I'm considering picking up a block and rotating assembly from my buddy. It came out of an 89 GT and was intended to go into his 87 notch. He's had some machine work done in preparation of building it. What all should I be looking at when checking out the block? What can not be fixed on a block?

I'm just planning on porting the e7 anchors I have sitting in my garage and porting the upper and lower intake I have sitting in the garage. Maybe get a cheapo cam, then just throw together a slightly more stout stock 5.0 to hold me over until the actual power build.

With these minor airflow improvements what all would need modified on the stock induction system? Would I need to upgrade the fuel/ignition system.

USMC1775

At least go with a gt40 setup for the time being, its really not worth it porting the e7s or the stock intake mani

w8less

i wouldnt waste my time or money with it unless your motor is already hurt

Tony71502

I'm pretty sure mines hurting. Just from reading the plugs, seeing dyno numbers, and knowing how much oil it consumes. It more than likely needs piston rings and new valves/valve seats. It still pulls hard, though.

I just want to use the e7s because I have an extra set that I can work on while the car is still operational. Same for the intake. I don't want to get gt40s considering I will be getting new heads in the future.

The block has been hot tanked, cam bored and bearings installed, freeze plugs installed, decked 10 thousandths and has a stock forged rotating assembly with new piston rings already installed. It's also got a new timing chain and Melling oil pump. I can pick it up for about 325 which isn't too bad, I guess.

FivePointOhh

for porting your stockers. i would waste the time on "porting" them. its a lot more difficult than you think. i spent about 20-30 hours on my '66 289 heads. most people dont get as detailed as i did. i even used 100cc glass burette to measure cc's of chambers and machinist calipers to make sure the shape of the air entering the chamber remains consistant through all cylinders.

if i were you, i'd get a couple porting tools and just remove the bump in the exhaust holes, smooth transitions and the biggest gain you'll get is bowl work. work the bowls more open and then where the intake/exhaust enter the bowl there is always a sharp drop off. if you smooth that transition out the air will hold its shape better when entering the cylinder=more power

TrimDrip

machining of the block would be more than 325. I would go ahead and get it.

mjr46

get it or sell it to me at least, I need one too!!!

Tony71502

The block is available as long as I want it...

If I do get better than stock heads, they won't be gt40s. If I get an HCI I'm going to have to change fuel system parts, probably ignition parts, intake parts, and get it tuned. All that happy horsesh!t. The e7s were appealing because it's basically just labor instead of a monster price tag. Hell I may just clean the heads up without porting and throw them on. Regaining lost power is better than nothing.

Are there any cams out there that can be thrown into a stock H/I set up and produce a little performance gain?

Tony71502

There's a B cam in the block already. Should I just run with that on stock H/I or go back to the stock cam?


Mjr, if you're still in the market for a block when I do this you can have the one in my car now for next to nothing considering it would need machine shop love.

Tony71502

Can anyone say what a B-cam will do for performance on a stock block?

It's already in the motor and I just want to have the heads rebuilt and thrown on. I'm trying to be as cheap as possible (just this once ) and not put alot of money into this motor build. I'm trading my used BBK 2.5" H-pipe with cats, 1 5/8 unequal shorty headers, and two new 28 spline 5 lug axles for the assembled short block + cam. Basically the only cash out of pocket will be head rebuild, gaskets, TTY bolts, and maybe any intake parts.

What parts would you recommend to give me optimal performance? I know the stock intake can handle alot, but would a slightly larger MAF or TB help me? Or should those parts be held off for the actual good motor build? I'm getting a diff egr spacer for sure.