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Whats it take to run 10s

Old 08-17-2009, 12:17 AM
  #11  
Milford
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I want to go EFI no carb here because I will have it back home in IL in the burbs of Chicago and I would have to go through emissions. Now with a turbo kit do they make single turbo kits or just twin? I have my old turbo off my truck that is stock and can hold a max of 25 PSI which I know is way more then needed in a stang with a small block. I can get a lot of the stuff that Ford makes for whatever they get it for cause my father is a mechanic for them. 500 hp does not seem like much but then again I am use to diesel pickups that with 500 will only go mid 13s maybe low 13s if your setup right. LOL I guess I just need to get use to the whole weighing 3500 pounds again not the 7K my truck weighs. I am really looking foward to this and it seems like you guys know your stuff and are going to be good help. If any of you need help with a powerstroke just let me know LOL I know them alright
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Old 08-17-2009, 07:56 AM
  #12  
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then substitute a victor efi or tfs box intake fyi you don't need 500 hp to run 10-11 sec times.......I ran low 11's with under 400
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Old 08-17-2009, 10:08 AM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by mjr46
fyi you don't need 500 hp to run 10-11 sec times.......I ran low 11's with under 400
I take it your suspension was before the motor work and a good tire was part of that time to. I know how to drive and I have ran my truck in the 1/4. 13 passes to be exact and I can push out .6 lights consistant and have a low of .53 and I also atleast in my truck can run 1.8 60 foot times. LOL the time was not the best but for 5 years ago and what I had done it was not bad. Only a SCT and little stuff I ran a 15.5. I would really like to do all of this on a 331 or a 306. I need to find a car to do all of this in so I have been looking and back to the EFI to Carb deal if I find a 4 banger instead of a 5.0 I would for sure go carb since I would not need to wire anything and its much easier to diagnose and repair with no sensors or chip or anything needed to run at its best. Now whats the best place to find the motor components for this car and where is a good place to start looking for a straight body with no rust?
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Old 08-17-2009, 10:12 AM
  #14  
FivePointOhh
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ford stroker and get yourself a 347. dont waste your time on a 331. whatever you've"heard" about 347's is oldschool news. ask around about a good 347 heads cam intake combo or contact ed curtis about a good matched HCI build with your goals in mind and he'll hook you up.

your biggest thing you wanna do is get your suspension work done asap so your motor works with you, not against you. you want traction to be the least of your worries.
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Old 08-17-2009, 10:59 AM
  #15  
mjr46
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Originally Posted by Milford
I take it your suspension was before the motor work and a good tire was part of that time to. ?
It has suspension work but nothing out of the ordinary and I don't hammer it hard out of the hole as to not break stuff
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Old 08-17-2009, 12:18 PM
  #16  
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Ok so a 347. Should I go forced induction or stay natural? I love turbos but natural would be more fun and more of a challenge. Where is a good place to find a rust free body with a straight sub frame.
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Old 08-17-2009, 01:02 PM
  #17  
luckythirteen13
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Originally Posted by Milford
Ok so a 347. Should I go forced induction or stay natural? I love turbos but natural would be more fun and more of a challenge. Where is a good place to find a rust free body with a straight sub frame.
in ca, 99% of the cars are rust free (depending on where you live).
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Old 08-17-2009, 01:40 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by mjr46
It has suspension work but nothing out of the ordinary and I don't hammer it hard out of the hole as to not break stuff

your not racing hard enough if your not breaking stuff
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Old 08-17-2009, 01:51 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by Milford
O trust me its about half to price to get a stang into the 10s then my truck into the low 13s high 12s. Rods to handle the CP are 2600-3500. Thats just the damn rod then you through in my 4500 tranny that I have already, 2K for injectors, machine work, another 700 bucks for head studs, a turbo to handle the fuel your putting into it then the time and money for the live tuning. There is plenty of stuff I am leaving out. Trust me its way cheaper to build a car into the low 11s high 10s.

How hard is it to fit a big block into a fox body? also what has to be done to the suspension to handle the added weight? I would love to put a 331 in and build it so it could run 11s if not 10s on pump gas and NA. I dont know if it can be done because I dont know anything about these really. If I can fit a 351W in just as easy as I can a 302 block then I would go up to that if not higher if its easy to fit it in. What do I need to run these times for under say 10 grand
351 does drop right in, only thing you really need is a new flywheel and balancer for the 28.2oz imbalance. You will run into hood clearance problems, even with my 2.5" cowl on my car, I still have to take it to the body shop to get the hood bent in a few key places. DON'T drop the motor. That's the worst way to go about doing anything on a car. That changes the geometry of your driveline. You drop the motor, trans goes up, as does your driveshaft.

Only way you'll see 10's on a car that's N/A made to run on pump gas is to go big. You won't see that with a 347 made to run on 91, you may get close, but won't break that 10 second marker. If you don't have the displacement to make the power, you need compression. Build a 393 or 408, and you shouldn't have much trouble touching high 10's
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Old 08-17-2009, 01:57 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by fs308
your not racing hard enough if your not breaking stuff
Your right J ...I'm not infact not at all right now, the wife lost her job and sorta is glad and doesn't wanna go back to work, so now I can't afford to break much less race....women...............
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