83gtragtop

Thanks alot. I'm not sure if much will be happening with my car in the near future. I'm finishing up with my Masters degree at the moment and I'm not loaded with cash. Once I get a job and start saving some money for a house, I'll probably look at the following in order:

• H/C/Gear Swap
• Corbeau GTS Leather/Suede Front Seats w/Corbeau rear seat covers
• Full Paint Job, Car has great paint for its age but I'd love it to be perfect.

dreamer1uk

Hey,

I hear you on the cash thing. I have to pay cash for all my college classes (automotive)which is alittle rough seeing as me and the wife have a mortgage payment and all that jazz. Thats why it takes me alot longer to do fun things to my Mustang. So what are you going to college for?
And you list of future upgrades looks great

83gtragtop

I'm going to San Diego State for a Masters in Accountancy. I follow 7_Zero's thread, you've provided alot info there. When are going to put that 302 into your Fox?

Shelty

not to sound retarded, but you essentially gutted the stock porportioning block, and its duty is now taken over by the wilwood porportioning valve correct?

and obviously one can snag a 85 town car MC from the local auto part store, why an '85 specifically?

I am asking because I want to do the same

83gtragtop

Exactly, the stock proportioning valve was sending 80% of the force to the front brakes and 20% to the rear. This one of the reasons why Foxes have a ton of brake dive. Once its gutted, the stock valve will send out the braking force 50/50 to the front and rear. You then install the Wilwood valve further along down the rear line and the Wilwood valve restricts rear braking force. This will allow me to tune the braking force so that more effort can be sent to the rear than stock, something around 70/30. You essentially want your rear brakes to lock up just after the fronts lock up. If you send too much force to the rear, the rears will lock first and it will cause your rearend to come around. Not good.

I'm using an '85 Towncar because it's a 1" bore. A 1" bore is whats generally recommended for the Cobra swap. I'm also using the '85 Towncar Master specifically because I like the look of a cast iron MC and because the stock front Prop Valve to MC line fits, so only needed to replace on fitting. Also, the MC used in the '85 Towncar was used in other years and in other Ford applications but its been generally referred to as the '85 Towncar.

The Towncar MC is available at NAPA and I'm sure others carry it. For your car though, I would recommend a '93 Cobra MC, which is also a 1" bore. Maximum Motorsports makes a conversion kit for '87-'93 Mustangs to convert to the '93 Cobra MC. I would link you the conversion kit but Maximum Motorsports website redirects you to the main page when you link anything. The MM part number is MMBAK-3 . I have a brand new '93 Cobra MC that I bought for $110 would sell to you for $80 shipped. MM sells it for $100 plus shipping. I'm sure you probably not going to be buying parts for a while but I figured I'd offer.

Brian

dreamer1uk

Well, im still in the process of stripping the engine down. I still need to buy a Telescoping Gauge and a Micrometer to check my cylinder bores, as well as finding a straight edge to check my deck. Plus i need to go through the entire bottom end and check all the bearing clearences there and so forth. Good news thus far is that the cylinder wall crosshatching is still visable. Not bad for an 87 E7 block with alittle over 100k miles Hopefully it wont need to be bored.

Its probably not going to go into my Vert until i find a C4 trans, ECU and wiring i need, so probably not until next year unfortuantley , unless i totally skip my interior swap, then it would be doable this year. Im in no rush, plus money is an issue right now. I also need to get my drivers side fender refinished too.

Im still undecided on the heads and cam and wether or not im stcking with EFI or Carb. I was looking at a set of GT40 heads and maybe a Lunati cam, but i still have alot of research to do there to see if the stock EFI system can handle those heads and cam, or if i need bigger injectors and a calibrated MAF if i stick with EFI. Lots to think about

dreamer1uk

Hey,

I thought RWD vehicles had 60% braking in the front, and 40% in the rear? I also thought the rear brakes are supposed to be applied before the front if your using a combintation valve or a proportion valve? All this info is from my Automotive Brakes college manual which also preps you for your ASE's. Is that info wrong?

83gtragtop

I recommend starting a thread on this topic in this section. You will get some goo information.

I think that 60/40 is a generalization for RWD cars. Ford's lawyers wanted Ford to error on the safe side because of the fact that the back end of the Mustang is so light and locking up the rears first would result in alot of accidents because of a loss of control.

Shelty

thanks man, yeah I am probably not going to be buying anything for at least 6 months. gotta focus on graduating and getting employed before anything else. this does make sense and makes things easier to understand, and I now know why my brakes are not the greatest lol.

83gtragtop

No problem man, look forward to your conversion.