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want to upgrade brakes with 1k

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Old 07-30-2010, 12:05 AM
  #11  
19stang88
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Originally Posted by 1987notchback View Post
i used all sn95 parts from the junkyard. at the time i was rebuilding my rearend so when i replaced my axles i went 5 -lug with a mounting plate for th rear disc. everything else including the spindles were from the sn95. hope this helped mike
good idea! how much did all the run you?

Originally Posted by projectresto83 View Post
This would be a start
http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/item/MM-BP1

You can also get some SVO calipers with the 73mm steel piston for like $15 a pop from advance. Stock 5.0's are only 60 mm .

Then use these on the calipers
http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/item/MM-MMSSCS

and these to use the pads in the first kit on the SVO calipers
http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/...attle-Clip-Kit


So for about $350 you can have better than stock braking power.
that is something that looking for. better than stock but not over the top. I just feel like i can't stop sometimes.
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Old 07-30-2010, 11:07 AM
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projectresto83
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Thats what everyone says about stock brakes. Yea they suck compared to todays standards but if properly adjusted they can work out pretty well. I guarantee that yours are better than mine right now lol. I also have SN front brakes too. I will be eventually upgrading to rear disc as well but I still need alot of stuff to do that yet
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Old 07-30-2010, 07:23 PM
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In that case, there's no need to spend thousands to get some improvements. You best bang for the buck is going to be a better set of pads. Get away from the DD/ceramic pads, and go to a good carbon metallic, like Performance Friction, Hawk, Porterfield, etc.

Increasing the front calipers to the 73mm size helps some, but more expensive. Same with braided lines.

This is going to sound silly, but lowering the suspension and better shocks/springs will really help. During hard braking the car will be better balanced, won;t nose dive, and will feel more in control. That gives you more confidence, and allows you to mash the pedal further without getting nervous. I know, it doesn't sound right. But it works.

And don't forget about tires. Tires have more influence on control than any other component.
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Old 07-30-2010, 09:43 PM
  #14  
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the 73MM piston seems like it would give me better stopping power along with the SS lines and some good pads. It doesn't sound silly that you mention lowering my car. I understand how it can improve stopping. I have eibach springs but i haven't put them in yet. I need to fix my mid pipe first because it where it bends to my headers is way to low and it will create a problem. plus i need cc kit too
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Old 07-31-2010, 09:07 AM
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i cannot really remember how much it all added up to. i did ss lines new pads and rotors and a proportioning valve while i was at it so that added to the price. the master cylinder, powerbooster, calipers and spindles used were prob around 300ish then add on pads calipers and if u did swap the drums to disc u have to buy a mounting plate for the calipers in the rear the pair is about 150. oh and u need to buy new cables for your e-brake if you do the rear disc those were prob 50 or so. so basically 500+pads, fluid and calipers and prob a few things thats i am forgeting. those links have it all and giv many options as to which parts u use and tells u how to do it on any budget. that all being said like the other guys posted maybe just upgrading ur fronts for now u can always the the rears later. mike
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Old 07-31-2010, 06:52 PM
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Im more interested in upgrading the fronts. I just didn't know how much it would take to upgrade the brake system, well the fronts atleast. So then it would be wise to upgrade my disks too? are those slotted ones any good?
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Old 07-31-2010, 10:34 PM
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stick with the stock solid rotors. You won't get any advantage with aftermarket parts.
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Old 08-01-2010, 10:06 AM
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^+1 on that mine are stock
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Old 08-01-2010, 11:48 AM
  #19  
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A good set of vented rotors with slots is a good way to go. The vented rotor will keep the brakes cooler and the slots will keep the pads from glazing up. They will also release some of the gases that will build up between the pad and rotor. Cross drill rotor are better for removing the gases but if it is not a high end rotor it will start see spider cracks around the holes under hard, very hard braking (road racing, etc.).
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Old 08-02-2010, 05:58 PM
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Once again, the urban brake myths rise to the top.

Stock rotors are vented.

Slotted rotors act like a cheese grater, and remove a small amount of material with each pass. That's OK when you're beating on your brakes lap after lap. On the street there's no advantage, and lots of disadvantage. Increased noise and dust, decreased pad life.

Drilling and dimpeling is striclty for bling, it has no functional effect. Drilling also gives rise to stress fractures, and the rotors won't last as long. There is no cooling advantage. Pads don't outgass like they used to, either.
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