Here She is & New rack install
#1
Here She is & New rack install
I thought I'd post a couple of pics since I finally gave the pig a bath on Sunday. I didn't take any when the sun was out & I had the top down, but I'll get to that eventually...
Instead I dug out the camera yesterday when I installed the new rack/pinion & outer tie-rods. After getting the alignment done today she steers & tracks tight like a brand new car (though now the steering pump is making a noticable whine...???). When I bought the vert the steering was comparable to a high school practice girl: just sloppy... I new I'd be doing this after I first drove it home, & honestly, really wasn't looking forward to it. But to anyone who's considering doing it themself (but has never done one before) I'd say don't be afraid- just take your time, use a lift if you have access to one (working on your back sucks...), and have the forethought to replace your tie-rod ends and p/s hoses while you're in there. Skip the little stuff & it'll bite ya later...
I didn't even get to do it in my garage because an '87 'Vette convertible I restored & sold is still in there waiting for it's owner to come & get it.
Anyway, here's my almost stock little vert...
Up on jackstands
Drop the wheels, tie-rod ends, 14mm steering column ext shaft coupler bolts (x2), rack mounting bolts, p/s lines (be prepared for fluid to drain), & then take out the 2 14mm bolts holding the radiator support bracket to the crossmember & drop the rack out.
Install prep
Lay the old crap by the new parts & transfer the extension shaft coupler onto the new rack (use lock-tite). Torque 7/16 12pt bolt to spec.
Now here's where you have to pay attention
Unless you have your own alignment rack you're going to have to drive to your local shop of choice to get the alignment done. This means you have to get the toe-in close enough to be driveable for a short distance. What I did is take the old tie-rod ends off of the old rack counting revolutions to a 1/4 turn accuracy. When you start the threads of the new tie-rod ends on the new rack start your count from right where the threads first sync up. My old ends came off 32 1/4 revs on the L, and 33 1/2 on the R- so that's exactly what I counted when assembling the new parts. This by NO means is aligned! However keep in mind my old inner tie rod ends had about 4mm to 6mm of end-play on each side where they join the rack inside the boots (more than 8mm total slop) giving my project a wide margin for mis-alignment, so this method will definately get you down the road to your chosen shop.
When you install the new rack assembly only start the rack mounting bolts 2 or 3 threads- you're gonna need the play to line up the ext shaft collar. After the column is bolted back up just reverse the entire process & torque to spec.
Not a difficult, nor an expensive project. Just make sure you know which rack you have (there are 4) before you make your purchase.
Rack: $89 (and $50 core), Tie-rod ends: $16ea, P/S pressure line: $18, P/S fluid & odds/ends: >$10.
Tip: A stubby 18mm wrench makes re-attaching the p/s return line a whole lot easier...
Instead I dug out the camera yesterday when I installed the new rack/pinion & outer tie-rods. After getting the alignment done today she steers & tracks tight like a brand new car (though now the steering pump is making a noticable whine...???). When I bought the vert the steering was comparable to a high school practice girl: just sloppy... I new I'd be doing this after I first drove it home, & honestly, really wasn't looking forward to it. But to anyone who's considering doing it themself (but has never done one before) I'd say don't be afraid- just take your time, use a lift if you have access to one (working on your back sucks...), and have the forethought to replace your tie-rod ends and p/s hoses while you're in there. Skip the little stuff & it'll bite ya later...
I didn't even get to do it in my garage because an '87 'Vette convertible I restored & sold is still in there waiting for it's owner to come & get it.
Anyway, here's my almost stock little vert...
Up on jackstands
Drop the wheels, tie-rod ends, 14mm steering column ext shaft coupler bolts (x2), rack mounting bolts, p/s lines (be prepared for fluid to drain), & then take out the 2 14mm bolts holding the radiator support bracket to the crossmember & drop the rack out.
Install prep
Lay the old crap by the new parts & transfer the extension shaft coupler onto the new rack (use lock-tite). Torque 7/16 12pt bolt to spec.
Now here's where you have to pay attention
Unless you have your own alignment rack you're going to have to drive to your local shop of choice to get the alignment done. This means you have to get the toe-in close enough to be driveable for a short distance. What I did is take the old tie-rod ends off of the old rack counting revolutions to a 1/4 turn accuracy. When you start the threads of the new tie-rod ends on the new rack start your count from right where the threads first sync up. My old ends came off 32 1/4 revs on the L, and 33 1/2 on the R- so that's exactly what I counted when assembling the new parts. This by NO means is aligned! However keep in mind my old inner tie rod ends had about 4mm to 6mm of end-play on each side where they join the rack inside the boots (more than 8mm total slop) giving my project a wide margin for mis-alignment, so this method will definately get you down the road to your chosen shop.
When you install the new rack assembly only start the rack mounting bolts 2 or 3 threads- you're gonna need the play to line up the ext shaft collar. After the column is bolted back up just reverse the entire process & torque to spec.
Not a difficult, nor an expensive project. Just make sure you know which rack you have (there are 4) before you make your purchase.
Rack: $89 (and $50 core), Tie-rod ends: $16ea, P/S pressure line: $18, P/S fluid & odds/ends: >$10.
Tip: A stubby 18mm wrench makes re-attaching the p/s return line a whole lot easier...
Last edited by Bowtietraitor; 01-18-2011 at 08:14 PM.
#5
Nah man, Congress changed all that- you're ok now!
JK LOL
No way bro- not in a vert...
Besides, I've had my fast toys. It'd take a lot to get this thing even close to my Charger (which BTW is f'n BAD for an all stock, right off the dealer floor sedan), let alone make it fast... I'm just gonna restore this old girl a little at a time until she's like new & enjoy it for what it is. I just dig having a V-8 5-spd again!
JK LOL
No way bro- not in a vert...
Besides, I've had my fast toys. It'd take a lot to get this thing even close to my Charger (which BTW is f'n BAD for an all stock, right off the dealer floor sedan), let alone make it fast... I'm just gonna restore this old girl a little at a time until she's like new & enjoy it for what it is. I just dig having a V-8 5-spd again!
#6
No way bro- not in a vert...
Besides, I've had my fast toys. It'd take a lot to get this thing even close to my Charger (which BTW is f'n BAD for an all stock, right off the dealer floor sedan), let alone make it fast... I'm just gonna restore this old girl a little at a time until she's like new & enjoy it for what it is. I just dig having a V-8 5-spd again!
Besides, I've had my fast toys. It'd take a lot to get this thing even close to my Charger (which BTW is f'n BAD for an all stock, right off the dealer floor sedan), let alone make it fast... I'm just gonna restore this old girl a little at a time until she's like new & enjoy it for what it is. I just dig having a V-8 5-spd again!
#8
As for Chargers don't be fooled... There are a few variants of "R/T's" that are no slouch. The difference between mine & a normal R/T is night & day, not to mention another 12 grand. This thing EATS most new stock Camaros & Mustangs (not Saleen or Roush obviously) & other than the rims it's BONE STOCK. It's faster than the last Vette I built, & that thing had all the right stuff...
#9
It's not fear- it's experience bro. I've had enough sports cars to know which ones to keep stock(ish) & which ones are right to go all out on. If I wanted to build a car I wouldn't have started with a convertible. An LX is more ridgid (& potentially MUCH lighter), and even a hatchback would take less to reinforce. Could I make this fast(er)? Yes I could, but by the time I do all the suspension, frame stiffening, new engine, upgrade trans, etc, etc I'd be another ten grand into this ride, and would have ultimately defeated what I like about it in the first place. No this ones a restorer. It's already so damn close to original & after I clean up a few easy tings all she needs is a good paint job to be cherry again.
As for Chargers don't be fooled... There are a few variants of "R/T's" that are no slouch. The difference between mine & a normal R/T is night & day, not to mention another 12 grand. This thing EATS most new stock Camaros & Mustangs (not Saleen or Roush obviously) & other than the rims it's BONE STOCK. It's faster than the last Vette I built, & that thing had all the right stuff...
As for Chargers don't be fooled... There are a few variants of "R/T's" that are no slouch. The difference between mine & a normal R/T is night & day, not to mention another 12 grand. This thing EATS most new stock Camaros & Mustangs (not Saleen or Roush obviously) & other than the rims it's BONE STOCK. It's faster than the last Vette I built, & that thing had all the right stuff...
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