04ShadowStang

My car is a 1995 Ford Mustang GTS 5.0 HO... It was built in May 1995. It is stock, except for these 1.7 Pedestal Roller Rockers from Crane Cams. This is information regarding a Pedestal set-up on my particular application. Everything has gone smoothly, it drives great, runs and idles well, and I have noticed an increase of power at higher RPM's especially after 45-50MPH.

Now, normally I'd put this in the tech section seeing as it has some information that could be helpful, but there is going to be far too much rhetoric. I will be as specific as possible, but I do not know all the little specific part names, just locations and generalities. I must also stress that this is not the end all guide - just a simple play by play from my experience.

Okay! So, let me begin by saying I am not a mechanic - I am an enthusiast, creative professional, and a bit of a physics/math guy. And, the most I have done before this is auto paint, custom fiberglass, install basic bolt-on upgrades, and tune with PC/SCT combo. If you take anything from this article, let me know - it'd be nice to know it helped in any way. If you wish to help re-write it with me, please send me a message and we'll discuss it.

Let's go...

I started by labeling wire connections and attached parts that I knew would need to come off. My labeling system is simple, I write which part it connects to on the individual piece using some blue tape and a sharpie. This is not to say I did not know where half the connectors, lines, and such go - except that I simply wanted to make it easier.

I then began slowly pulling everything off starting with the air intake (or cold air for you lucky ones), and then the EGR (I'm only assuming this was the EGR - it was bolted behind/on the Throttle Body). I also unbolted the assembly for the throttle cable. Unplugged and set apart the spark plug wires, etc.

After all the wires and tubing are out of the way (there is a lot you should remove), I went ahead and unbolted and removed the upper intake... I blue taped over the ports on both the upper and lower intakes as well as the TB just in case.

From here, if memory serves me right, it was simply a matter of slowly moving the upper intake and carefully disconnecting some tubing from the bottom of the Upper Intake near the firewall. Now, when the time came for us to handle this, my two helping hands decided to move to quickly and they broke a T-Valve/Splitter and PCV line(? acronym correct ?)... So, I went ahead and bought TWO (2) feet of replacement line from my local NAPA and bought a new T-Valve/Splitter and at that time length matched, cut, and replaced the broken lines. I would recommend that if you have the patience and prowess - to replace all those ridiculously hard-hard-lines in your engine bay - they are for the most part brittle and old in my car.

From here... Things got - annoying. I wanted to start on the passenger side because I knew it would be the most difficult. So, just to make a long story short, we had to man-handle the EGR tubing coming up from the exhaust manifold as well as push the Transmission dipstick off the the side... We also had to disconnect the alternator and rotate it (without full removal) towards the fender...

At this point, we used a flat-head to loosen the valve cover for removal. We lifted from the firewall side and rotated and pulled until we got it off. The driver's side is dead-easy in comparison (simply unbolt and pull (mas-o-menos)...

From here on out - we followed the directions from Crane Cams/Ford to the letter... And - we did NOT use any shims, achieved proper pre-load, torqued everything correctly, and lather-rinse-repeat.

I did not even bother seeing if the baffle on the driver's side would fit, we pried it out with pliers and made sure metal wouldn't flake off, and such.

We put the valve covers with new gasket back on, as well a new gasket for the Intakes, and began the process of reconnecting and bolting on all the bits and pieces.

Once everything was plugged in - I decided to hit the MAF with some cleaner before putting it back on, and then we finished up with the air intake.

Started the car, it was a little noisier at first, but calmed down considerably after proper idle was reached. The rockers are clearing properly, the rods are all the correct length, pre-load was correct, shims were not necessary (this was agreed upon after a check-up today at three local shops that specialize in 5.0 Mustangs). There is a slight - tick - but no vibration on the valve cover, just simple valve-train noise which was limited greatly by switch to thicker oil today. Sounds just like my built 289 from my first Mustang at age 16 (1966 Mustang), as well as my buddy's 5.0, my buddy's 70's 5.0, etc.

I test-drove the car for 45 minutes, all types of driving. Parking lots, stop and go's, freeway, and so on and so forth. No mechanical issues, and it picks up nicely in the higher RPM's and past 45-50MPH compared to before the install. I did the EXACT same drive before install at stock. It's no dyno, but personally, I prefer feel over numbers when it comes to things like this. I'd rather have the enhanced performance of fulcrums and these aluminum 1.7's over stock iron (? at least appearing) 1.6's.

04ShadowStang

Removed for lack of necessity...

projectresto83

I would love to get mine on but I don't have the pedestals for them. I got the rockers themselves for free so I can't complain about missing little pieces.

Just a FYI, on our applications there should never be a need for shims. They stock parts on Cobras (obviously) so they should be a direct fit. If not then something is wrong.

holyshift

Had to shim mine....no big deal,as long as its not excessively shimmed,then you need to measure for pushrods.

04ShadowStang

I partially agree on shims - but every motor - even stock is different. However, if you torque everything on correctly and achieve proper pre-load (which is what the shims are for in the first place) you'll be ok.

Also, I'm sure you could get the pedestals from Crane separately if you contacted them.

04ShadowStang

That's the one thing I was going to change out when I did these, but I forgot to order them and got lazy

AdderMk2

you should cut out the opinions, and leave it to straight instruction...

I couldnt even get through half of your how to, without being bored out of my mind.

add pictures.

04ShadowStang

I said at the very beginning that it would be filled with rhetoric that would keep it from being a true how-to.

Those who are looking to do this install themselves will probably take the time, rhetoric and all, to read through this.

I didn't take step by step photos for this particular install. But I do have a photo with one side done I could post.

Bubba 95SN

Stud mount RR. Makes for shorter post.

04ShadowStang

As far as posting details for the actual part install - I stated I followed Crane/Ford directions with the package - So this fat post wouldn't lose any weight...

And I really don't personally have a need for stud mounted rr's... I prefer the pedestal, at least with the direction I'm personally going with my build.