Convert to carb?
#1
Convert to carb?
If I build a stroker motor, how is this going to effect me when it comes to the fuel system? Will it need larger injectors? I was already planning on an intake, TB, etc. but will it need a higher flowing fuel pump as well or is the stock pump capable of feeding enough fuel to a 331/347?
I was also wondering if I would be better off converting it to carb. We don't have smog testing around here so I don't have to worry about that whole mess. It seems like for the cost of EFI intake, TB, injectors, etc. I could simply convert it to carb for much cheaper and from what I've read elsewhere carbs make higher peak HP compared to EFI.
I know I would get worse MPG vs. the EFI but it shouldn't be a whole lot worse and if that was my primary concern I wouldn't be considering a stroker :P
My main concern with converting would be cost/performance compared to keeping the EFI.
I was also wondering if I would be better off converting it to carb. We don't have smog testing around here so I don't have to worry about that whole mess. It seems like for the cost of EFI intake, TB, injectors, etc. I could simply convert it to carb for much cheaper and from what I've read elsewhere carbs make higher peak HP compared to EFI.
I know I would get worse MPG vs. the EFI but it shouldn't be a whole lot worse and if that was my primary concern I wouldn't be considering a stroker :P
My main concern with converting would be cost/performance compared to keeping the EFI.
#2
I imagine you will probably want 30s in it. You will have to get a new mass air meter of course so, your looking at being out close to 4 to 500 bucks there on just injectors and a meter if you go new. I would go ahead upgrade the pump so, another 100 bucks there. Intake and tb, I would go used if I could find a good deal. So lets say 500 for both. Then after all is said and done, you may need a tune. So lets say another 500 there.
So 1500 to 2 grand is my guess on that route.
Yeah, I would think carb would be a little cheaper pending on what and how you get the fuel to the carb and get it regulated.
So 1500 to 2 grand is my guess on that route.
Yeah, I would think carb would be a little cheaper pending on what and how you get the fuel to the carb and get it regulated.
#3
I would like to go with a clean look and less things to go wrong so if I tear out the computer and wiring harness I still need to get fuel from the pump to the new carb.
I was curious about adding a mechanical fuel pump so it would be one less thing to go wrong, but if I start to make decent power later on with a stroker I have to wonder if I'd be better off sticking to an electric pump and regulator.
I'm really considering going carb because the wiring and vacuum in this car is a mess. The last owner cut sensors, unplugged vacuum lines, etc. I have no idea what goes where and don't really care to find out.
I love the fox body style, but I much prefer the simplicity of carbs and less electrical wiring and vacuum lines.
This car is mainly for having fun and as a back up. I like it to be as reliable as possible and with as few things to go wrong, even if that means paying more at the pump.
My concern is the electrical that remains for the chasis and ignition. Would my chasis electrical still function properly? Would the headlights, interior lights, etc. still work or is all that tied to the computer? I thought it was seperate of the computer and tied into the ignition.
I was curious about adding a mechanical fuel pump so it would be one less thing to go wrong, but if I start to make decent power later on with a stroker I have to wonder if I'd be better off sticking to an electric pump and regulator.
I'm really considering going carb because the wiring and vacuum in this car is a mess. The last owner cut sensors, unplugged vacuum lines, etc. I have no idea what goes where and don't really care to find out.
I love the fox body style, but I much prefer the simplicity of carbs and less electrical wiring and vacuum lines.
This car is mainly for having fun and as a back up. I like it to be as reliable as possible and with as few things to go wrong, even if that means paying more at the pump.
My concern is the electrical that remains for the chasis and ignition. Would my chasis electrical still function properly? Would the headlights, interior lights, etc. still work or is all that tied to the computer? I thought it was seperate of the computer and tied into the ignition.
#5
What do I need to change with the fuel tank if I convert? Do I need to change the tank if I use a mechanical pump?
What does the tank setup consist of on the older Mustangs vs. the newer ones using EFI?
What type of pickup and sender do they use?
Are there any diagrams I could look at?
Obviously my fuel gauge can't be used if I change the sender so I'll have to figure that one out as well.
What does the tank setup consist of on the older Mustangs vs. the newer ones using EFI?
What type of pickup and sender do they use?
Are there any diagrams I could look at?
Obviously my fuel gauge can't be used if I change the sender so I'll have to figure that one out as well.
#7
I've read several times online people strongly recommending not to use the stock EFI pump due to the pressure creeping up. Some have said to use a return line if using the stock EFI pump, but how would you run a return line back to the tank? I haven't had the tank down so I have no idea how it's setup exactly.
#9
So your not using a return line to the tank?