5.0 fell 5.slow help with next upgrade choice
04-12-2011, 10:10 PM
#1
2nd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 287
5.0 fell 5.slow help with next upgrade choice
hey all im on my 3rd official fox style stang and it has its downfalls ,but disgarding all that i want to get up to speed a bit faster.
my budget $300-$700 depending how i fell
i was thinking 100shot
my mods are
aftermarket intake(k&n style)
aftermarket pullys
mac 50 state legal headers
msd blaster ignition coil
3.73 gears(i think non posi o sonthings wrong )its on to do list)(i have another 3.73 rear end )
off road h pipe
flowmasters dumped
no rear seats or center console
e fan
..thanks for input.. this car has taken out a fellow 5.0 bolt on stang already but i think the race was too close for comfort, even if i did let him out front 1st .(plan on heading to the track now that its getting warmer)So its a little more serious. mid 11's would be fun
my budget $300-$700 depending how i fell
i was thinking 100shot
my mods are
aftermarket intake(k&n style)
aftermarket pullys
mac 50 state legal headers
msd blaster ignition coil
3.73 gears(i think non posi o sonthings wrong )its on to do list)(i have another 3.73 rear end )
off road h pipe
flowmasters dumped
no rear seats or center console
e fan
..thanks for input.. this car has taken out a fellow 5.0 bolt on stang already but i think the race was too close for comfort, even if i did let him out front 1st .(plan on heading to the track now that its getting warmer)So its a little more serious. mid 11's would be fun
04-13-2011, 03:06 AM
#4
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: CA
Posts: 33
That motor is not ready for nitrous. IMHO.
The E7TE head is crap. I would scope ebay for some GT40p castings from a Explorer or Mountaineer. I saw a nice pair for $250.00 a week ago.
Then I would get some Comp 1.7 roller rockers Part #: 1054-16 and put the whole thing together. 455.95 from summit. They have an adjustable cup, so you will not need new push rods if your old ones are straight & not clogged with goop. some fel-pro gaskets and your on like tron. you can get other roller rockers for less but you will need to mess with push rods and shims for adjustment.
In one fail swoop you will:
1. Pick up 2-3 mpg if you can keep your foot out of it.
2. Add roller rockers.
3. strengthening your valve train.
4. Add both Lift & duration with out messing with the cam.
5. Give yourself a nice platform for future power upgrades.
6. Torque/ HP all the time, Not just on the bottle. Not @ the cost of a cracked piston.
The E7TE head is crap. I would scope ebay for some GT40p castings from a Explorer or Mountaineer. I saw a nice pair for $250.00 a week ago.
Then I would get some Comp 1.7 roller rockers Part #: 1054-16 and put the whole thing together. 455.95 from summit. They have an adjustable cup, so you will not need new push rods if your old ones are straight & not clogged with goop. some fel-pro gaskets and your on like tron. you can get other roller rockers for less but you will need to mess with push rods and shims for adjustment.
In one fail swoop you will:
1. Pick up 2-3 mpg if you can keep your foot out of it.
2. Add roller rockers.
3. strengthening your valve train.
4. Add both Lift & duration with out messing with the cam.
5. Give yourself a nice platform for future power upgrades.
6. Torque/ HP all the time, Not just on the bottle. Not @ the cost of a cracked piston.
04-13-2011, 07:38 AM
#5
yeah, I like his idea better. Except you need to buy all that stuff from me. You will probably need pushrods though since my trickflow springs will handle more than an explorer camshaft. Also, my rockers are the Crane 1.7 cobra replacements.
04-13-2011, 11:48 AM
#6
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: CA
Posts: 33
Yea, My idea is way better... let me give you another good idea. Buy the parts I told you to. It will save you hours of labor & headache.
*No bull****, I put the same parts on my brothers 4 eye, it took less than 3 hours start to finish. I am skilled at spinning wrenches. I have a good workshop but any hobbyist with a rally box can pull this off in 6 hours or less in a drive way under an easy up. once the heads where on, Roller Rocker Setup took less than 25 minutes total. No shims to mess with, no push rods to buy & you get a real CNC full roller rocker not a cast stamped non-adjustable factory semi Rocker.
*On my brothers 4 eye w/ long tubes, DUI dist., Performer RPM air gap & holly 4150 carb. This head & rocker combo, gasket matched, unlocked 68 hp @ the rear wheels.
Are you going to keep your fuel injection?
*No bull****, I put the same parts on my brothers 4 eye, it took less than 3 hours start to finish. I am skilled at spinning wrenches. I have a good workshop but any hobbyist with a rally box can pull this off in 6 hours or less in a drive way under an easy up. once the heads where on, Roller Rocker Setup took less than 25 minutes total. No shims to mess with, no push rods to buy & you get a real CNC full roller rocker not a cast stamped non-adjustable factory semi Rocker.
*On my brothers 4 eye w/ long tubes, DUI dist., Performer RPM air gap & holly 4150 carb. This head & rocker combo, gasket matched, unlocked 68 hp @ the rear wheels.
Are you going to keep your fuel injection?
04-13-2011, 06:22 PM
#7
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: st clair shores MI
Posts: 6,028
spray it.
ive sprayed 3 of my own cars that were 100% stock. do a new fuel pump to make sure you have adequate fuel delivery, but other than that you can squirt 125 all day long
i've juiced about 3 other cars too, friends cars that were all stock as well. not 1 issue ever in over 15 years
you trac-lok is wore out or the carrier is broken. thats where the 1-wheel-peel is from
do a 100 shot and get a set of cheater slicks. that'll have you at $700 and will knock about 1.5-2 full seconds (or 15-20 car lengths) off your 1/4 mile ET
trust me... you will NOT regret it
ive sprayed 3 of my own cars that were 100% stock. do a new fuel pump to make sure you have adequate fuel delivery, but other than that you can squirt 125 all day long
i've juiced about 3 other cars too, friends cars that were all stock as well. not 1 issue ever in over 15 years
you trac-lok is wore out or the carrier is broken. thats where the 1-wheel-peel is from
do a 100 shot and get a set of cheater slicks. that'll have you at $700 and will knock about 1.5-2 full seconds (or 15-20 car lengths) off your 1/4 mile ET
trust me... you will NOT regret it
04-13-2011, 07:19 PM
#8
2nd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 287
the heads sound good .. i just dont want to do them over for more performance
04-13-2011, 10:17 PM
#9
Well, I really can't speak for wanting to do them over. If I was going to build an n/a motor, I would go with a better aluminum head. For an enigne that you plan to run a power adder on, a gt40 based head will work. I plan to buy a gt40 head to put on when the turbo kit comes in. I had really planned to use the springs and rockers on a set of gt40 heads since both have 12 dyno pulls and less than 100 miles.
The only reason I am looking to get rid of the stuff is with the Hellion turbo kit I ordered, the crossover runs along the back of the engine instead of the front. So more than likely the Bassani Hellion headers won't work with the gt40p heads. I have a kb on the car and really there is no reason to upgrade the heads vs. how it would be with a n/a enigne. It makes more than enough power for a daily driver. With the stock ho camshaft and 6lbs of boost, it is putting down 392hp and 486 lbs of torque.
Really though, if you want the most power for your money, I would go with nitrous. I would be more than happy to sell you the stuff for a good deal and you would have a little less than 700 in them by the time you are done buying pushrods, surfacing the heads and buying gaskets. But, if you take it to the track, a stock 5spd mustang with a 100 shot will probably outrun you.
Also, as far as the rear-end goes, I changed the fluid in mine and now it hooks. Yeah, yours could be broken and you would lose the fluid by trying what I tell you but, once that synthectic fluid gets on the clutches, it may start working again. The fluid is supposed to be changed every 100k or so. Just make sure you use the additive and not just the recomended gear oil.
The only reason I am looking to get rid of the stuff is with the Hellion turbo kit I ordered, the crossover runs along the back of the engine instead of the front. So more than likely the Bassani Hellion headers won't work with the gt40p heads. I have a kb on the car and really there is no reason to upgrade the heads vs. how it would be with a n/a enigne. It makes more than enough power for a daily driver. With the stock ho camshaft and 6lbs of boost, it is putting down 392hp and 486 lbs of torque.
Really though, if you want the most power for your money, I would go with nitrous. I would be more than happy to sell you the stuff for a good deal and you would have a little less than 700 in them by the time you are done buying pushrods, surfacing the heads and buying gaskets. But, if you take it to the track, a stock 5spd mustang with a 100 shot will probably outrun you.
Also, as far as the rear-end goes, I changed the fluid in mine and now it hooks. Yeah, yours could be broken and you would lose the fluid by trying what I tell you but, once that synthectic fluid gets on the clutches, it may start working again. The fluid is supposed to be changed every 100k or so. Just make sure you use the additive and not just the recomended gear oil.
Last edited by TrimDrip; 04-14-2011 at 07:29 AM.
04-14-2011, 01:58 AM
#10
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: CA
Posts: 33
Well, I really can't speak for wanting to do them over. If I was going to build an n/a motor, I would go with a better aluminum head. For an enigne that you plan to run a power adder on, a gt40 based head will work. I plan to buy a gt40 head to put on when the turbo kit comes in. I had really planned to use the springs and rockers on a set of gt40 heads since both have 12 dyno pulls and less than 100 miles.
The only reason I am looking to get rid of the stuff is with the Hellion turbo kit I ordered, the crossover runs along the back of the engine instead of the front. So more than likely the Bassani Hellion headers won't work with the gt40p heads. I have a kb on the car and really there is no reason to upgrade the heads vs. how it would be with a n/a enigne. It makes more than enough power for a daily driver. With the stock ho camshaft and 6lbs of boost, it is putting down 392hp and 486 lbs of torque.
Really though, if you want the most power for your money, I would go with nitrous. I would be more than happy to sell you the stuff for a good deal and you would have a little less than 700 in them by the time you are done buying pushrods, surfacing the heads and buying gaskets. But, if you take it to the track, a stock 5spd mustang with a 100 shot will probably outrun you.
Also, as far as the rear-end goes, I changed the fluid in mine and now it hooks. Yeah, yours could be broken and you lose would lose the fluid by trying what I tell you but, once that synthectic fluid gets on the clutches, it may start working again. The fluid is supposed to be changed every 100k or so. Just make sure you use the additive and not just the recomended gear oil.
The only reason I am looking to get rid of the stuff is with the Hellion turbo kit I ordered, the crossover runs along the back of the engine instead of the front. So more than likely the Bassani Hellion headers won't work with the gt40p heads. I have a kb on the car and really there is no reason to upgrade the heads vs. how it would be with a n/a enigne. It makes more than enough power for a daily driver. With the stock ho camshaft and 6lbs of boost, it is putting down 392hp and 486 lbs of torque.
Really though, if you want the most power for your money, I would go with nitrous. I would be more than happy to sell you the stuff for a good deal and you would have a little less than 700 in them by the time you are done buying pushrods, surfacing the heads and buying gaskets. But, if you take it to the track, a stock 5spd mustang with a 100 shot will probably outrun you.
Also, as far as the rear-end goes, I changed the fluid in mine and now it hooks. Yeah, yours could be broken and you lose would lose the fluid by trying what I tell you but, once that synthectic fluid gets on the clutches, it may start working again. The fluid is supposed to be changed every 100k or so. Just make sure you use the additive and not just the recomended gear oil.
The parts I recommended are good.
Nitrous is good
100 shot will make your 1/4 mile time faster. but for a daily driver the head mod is probably the way to go.
Call it bro, Heads or Nitrous??
Either way, I don't think you will be disappointed.
