mustanger management

I recently did an aod to t-5 swap. Everything worked fine until I stopped at a gas station. When I started the car, there was a pop in the motor. It drove, but was making an intermittent clicking. I took it back home, tore it down, and found a broken flywheel bolt head trapped in the recess between the clutch plate and the flywheel. The flyweel was scrached and gouged pretty good in this location. Then it refused to come off of the engine - The remains of the broken bolt would not let go,was unaffected by heat, had three easyouts broken off in it, wouldnt budge. The flywheel, beat up from the bolt tumbling and jamming against it, was finally sacrificed to get it off. I used brand new ARP bolts for the flywheel as well as pressure plate.

Ok Im stupid I bought another aluminum flywheel (fidanza knock off). Im thinking I should have stuck with steel, but I am going to forge forward once I get new flywheel bolts. I was hoping people had some tips for installing an aluminum flywheel?

Boss_Hotrod

No tips really. Just install it like a regular one and torque it to factory specs.

mjr46

never had a prob with my aluminum flywheels, just bolt on and go

4rdnut

I find it strange that one flywheel arp bolt would break off, did you use a torque wrench or an impact wrench, because it sounds to me the bolt broke when you tightened it. I would send the bill and bolts back to arp for the new flywheel.

mustanger management

I followed the recommended specs (75-85). I even went 75 ft. lbs. figuring that the aluminum might expand/contract with heat. I did a pretty careful install I thought.

mjr46

lol

sn95_331_GT_ yellow

never had an issue with my SPEC, bolted in normally and just took off...

only made a little bit of a difference from a dead stop, but it revved SOOOOO MUCH faster loved it